Aussie Hardcore Wheelers
https://outerlimits4x4.com.au/
Yep that would be ok tooSlunnie wrote:Good question. What about Hilux centres in Rover also?
I was amazed that a hilux centre can be seen as an upgrade as they are not that strong themselves. Those rover ones really must be weak as...Slunnie wrote:Good question. What about Hilux centres in Rover also?
Yes they are - they are actually BIGGER than a toyota 8" ring gear, but only spiral bevel, so overall they are weaker. A low pinion hilux front is probably about the same or weaker than a front rover diff (that is why everyone fits bundera or 60? series high pinion fronts to rover housings).Tazz wrote:I was amazed that a hilux centre can be seen as an upgrade, those rover ones really must be weak as...Slunnie wrote:Good question. What about Hilux centres in Rover also?
Except for the piddly 24 spline axles, compared to the nissansISUZUROVER wrote:A Nissan H260 rear (biggest nissan diff) with an ARB or prolocker would be about the same strength as a salisbury with an MD locker.
Yes, but you are forgetting the Nissans axles are semi-floating and the sals is full floating. Having to cope with bending loads mean the axle needs to be thicker to be the same strength as a semi-floater.cloughy wrote:Except for the piddly 24 spline axles, compared to the nissansISUZUROVER wrote:A Nissan H260 rear (biggest nissan diff) with an ARB or prolocker would be about the same strength as a salisbury with an MD locker.
. How hard wa it to fit Nissan CV's? Is it a DYI job? & how much better are they?Reddo wrote:60 series high pinion - where do you get one of those?
Hilux high pinion - strong?? whaaat??????
Trying 35s in the D1 atm, with JacMac axles and lockers, and pegged Ashcroft 4.11s CW, Nissan CVs. Will see how they go. The CWP size worries me a lot though........I really don't wnat to break them cause they cost a lot and will be hard to replace
I figure the CVs will go first.....
Reddo wrote:60 series high pinion - where do you get one of those?
Hilux high pinion - strong?? whaaat??????
Trying 35s in the D1 atm, with JacMac axles and lockers, and pegged Ashcroft 4.11s CW, Nissan CVs. Will see how they go. The CWP size worries me a lot though........I really don't wnat to break them cause they cost a lot and will be hard to replace
I figure the CVs will go first.....
I'd hope he meant 80 series 
I meant the toyota 8"/200mm diff. I keep losing track of what that is fitted to. Hiluxes have a low pinion front which is quite weak, but a high pinion front is stronger than a rover front.Reddo wrote:60 series high pinion - where do you get one of those?
Hilux high pinion - strong?? whaaat??????
No its not, its weak as piss in reverse, the high pinion that is, just stronger going forwardISUZUROVER wrote:I meant the toyota 8"/200mm diff. I keep losing track of what that is fitted to. Hiluxes have a low pinion front which is quite weak, but a high pinion front is stronger than a rover front.Reddo wrote:60 series high pinion - where do you get one of those?
Hilux high pinion - strong?? whaaat??????
Which inner front axles do you keep quating, the 32 0r 23 spline??? cause you can just retrofit, early classic CV's to get some strength backReddo wrote:fitting Nissan CVs requires some machining, and I think GQ size is as big as you can go - I could be wrong here as I've never found out the actual size of GU CVs...and to confuse matters more, it is possible to fit a strengthening band around Rover CV (110 that is), so, the housing should be able to take up to 100mm dia CVs (std Rover is 94mm dia).
JacMac can do the work for a couple of hundred dollars - ie, remove Rover needle race fron rear of stubs and replace with a bushing to suit/support the Nissan short axle. He has done this for a few Discos here and OS and so far they are holding up (I'm hanging onto a piece of 4x4 as I say this!!)
GQ Nissan CVs (Jap built) are around 150 each and they have a much larger axles input dia than Rover's - which is where the weakness is.
Sure it's weak in reverse - the point is that it is strong going forwards - where it counts. There are plenty of comp vehicles running these diffs with up to 37" wheels (e.g. beebee, and the ex haultech TT05 lockless now owned by andrew e). I would like to see how a rover diff holds up under the same conditions.cloughy wrote:No its not, its weak as piss in reverse, the high pinion that is, just stronger going forwardISUZUROVER wrote:I meant the toyota 8"/200mm diff. I keep losing track of what that is fitted to. Hiluxes have a low pinion front which is quite weak, but a high pinion front is stronger than a rover front.Reddo wrote:60 series high pinion - where do you get one of those?
Hilux high pinion - strong?? whaaat??????
I don't hump rocks so wouldn't know, all i know is lovely victorian plantations and forest and unfortunately you have to reverse in those conditions and they go BANG with 35" tyres, driven with some duress in reverse would probably see them last a very long time, but they are still weak in reverse, really weak, as in the weakness:strength ratio sucks, you gain in forward strength, but loose in bakarse gear,ISUZUROVER wrote:Sure it's weak in reverse - the point is that it is strong going forwards - where it counts. There are plenty of comp vehicles running these diffs with up to 37" wheels (e.g. beebee, and the ex haultech TT05 lockless now owned by andrew e). I would like to see how a rover diff holds up under the same conditions.cloughy wrote:No its not, its weak as piss in reverse, the high pinion that is, just stronger going forwardISUZUROVER wrote:I meant the toyota 8"/200mm diff. I keep losing track of what that is fitted to. Hiluxes have a low pinion front which is quite weak, but a high pinion front is stronger than a rover front.Reddo wrote:60 series high pinion - where do you get one of those?
Hilux high pinion - strong?? whaaat??????
Ahh, so you are one of those people who lack the capacity to navigate obstacles??? Explains a lotcloughy wrote:
I don't hump rocks so wouldn't know, all i know is lovely victorian plantations and forest and unfortunately you have to reverse in those conditions and they go BANG with 35" tyres, driven with some duress in reverse would probably see them last a very long time, but they are still weak in reverse, really weak, as in the weakness:strength ratio sucks, you gain in forward strength, but loose in bakarse gear,
Yea 1,957,827:1 low range VS 5000rpm abuse, 2 VEEEERY different thingsISUZUROVER wrote:cloughy wrote:
I don't hump rocks so wouldn't know, all i know is lovely victorian plantations and forest and unfortunately you have to reverse in those conditions and they go BANG with 35" tyres, driven with some duress in reverse would probably see them last a very long time, but they are still weak in reverse, really weak, as in the weakness:strength ratio sucks, you gain in forward strength, but loose in bakarse gear,
I can see how the terrain over there, where you have lots of mud and deep ruts, that maximum clearance and the ability to be as strong in reverse as going forwards would be an advantage.
Big difference to driving over high-traction rock.
ISUZUROVER wrote:Ahh, so you are one of those people who lack the capacity to navigate obstacles??? Explains a lot
Now that's not very nice, Ben.ISUZUROVER wrote:Ahh, so you are one of those people who lack the capacity to navigate obstacles??? Explains a lotcloughy wrote:
I don't hump rocks so wouldn't know, all i know is lovely victorian plantations and forest and unfortunately you have to reverse in those conditions and they go BANG with 35" tyres, driven with some duress in reverse would probably see them last a very long time, but they are still weak in reverse, really weak, as in the weakness:strength ratio sucks, you gain in forward strength, but loose in bakarse gear,
Depends where you are - most of the people I know who would fall into the "average weekend warrior" category, and are double-locked on 33-35" tyres have broken a ring and pinion or two in their time. But that is in the dry and sometimes rocky QLD conditions (usually with stock gearing, not big reductions and high rpm like cloughy is suggesting).disco95 wrote:o.k., let's forget the comp scene for a sec. What about your average weekend warrior. I want to be able to go pretty hard, but I don't need to do the extreme stuff. Some of the tracks around here are very muddy and slippery, some are steep and rocky with good 3' steps etc.
Wouldn't strengthened Rover gear and 33's do the job?
Perhaps throw in a diff lock for good measure.
While on the subject, I know I'd rather have the front locked for traction, but I don't feel it's an absolute necessity, is there more or less chance of breakage with the front or the rear locked?
You're unlikely to break CV's with only the rear locked but someone has probably managed it! For me, a rear locker is all I need/want.disco95 wrote:o.k., let's forget the comp scene for a sec. What about your average weekend warrior. I want to be able to go pretty hard, but I don't need to do the extreme stuff. Some of the tracks around here are very muddy and slippery, some are steep and rocky with good 3' steps etc.
Wouldn't strengthened Rover gear and 33's do the job?
Perhaps throw in a diff lock for good measure.
While on the subject, I know I'd rather have the front locked for traction, but I don't feel it's an absolute necessity, is there more or less chance of breakage with the front or the rear locked?
