Page 1 of 1

Clikcing CV and Flashing Rear difflock light

Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 12:28 am
by WTF
heyas,

took my new toy out for a bit of a bash tonight, was generally only mild 4x4'ing, nothing crazy, but prob needed the front locker for one or two spots (was a track up in the hills of brisbane).

the rear diff lock light:

anyway, firstly i noticed when i lock the rear locker, most of the time the rear diff lock light flashes, but its definately locked (from how it feels when you drive, its most certainly locked).

now, the CV issue:

i then noticed that since i got the height adjustable suspension working, that extra inch of lift must have been enough to upset the old cv.

after doing a large hill climb that caused the car to basically bottom out at the top (front, center and rear lockers all engaged), i noticed the front drivers side wheel making a clicking sound, sometimes when just going straight, but most noticeable when the suspension was in HIGH mode.

so i crawl under the car and notice the cv boot is split and can see a bit of grease around the split, unfortunately i was fairly deep into the forest track at this point, so had no option but to keep going.

The clicking sometimes went away, but it definately sounded like a dying cv when it was clicking away.

for the rest of the trip i ran with the suspension at LOW, just to reduce the angles on the cv joint. only every now and then did i hear clicking, so - not really sure?


either way, im keen to head out this weekend 4x4'ing, is it safe to assume the clicking is a dead CV? (since the boots split open), and if so, where might i try to find replacements in brisbane and somewhere to install it asap so i can use the car for the weekend?

id also guess brand new items would be hellishly expensive?

do the swb NH pajeros share the same parts as long wheel base models?

im quite new to the pajero, seems ive already hit the weakness of lifted IFS hehe

so, any recommendations of wreckers or mechanics that could do the job quickly?

thanks folks :)

mark

Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 6:16 am
by NJV6
I can try and help with the flashing lock light.

What it is in the diff is a switch which when earthed out (full curcuit) stops the light flashed and deems it fully locked.

The switch is activated by the moving of the air flange thingiemajig when the air flows to it. I can think of a couple of things of which there might be others or these wrong. :roll:

A bit of crap in the switch stopping the connection - does it ever go solid on?

Or the locker isn't fully engaging which is what we are pretty sure happened with mine and it destructed when under alot of load. It is very hard to tell if it is fully in or if you have a faulty switch without taking the diffhead out - Once it is out it is easy to see it working when locking and unlocking it. Mine looked like it was fully locking once I have shorn all the teeth off of it.

NJ

Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 9:53 am
by WTF
it seemed to go full on sometimes, it ony started flashing yesterday after a bit of 4x4ing..

previous to that it went solid..

frustrating!

especially when you get the flashing front wheel lights as well heheh.

Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 3:24 am
by WTF
fixed CV.. front driver side one had split open and lost its balls ;)

cost $99 for the CV fixed at some shop in bris that did it in like 15 mins

cost $120 for labour at my usual mechanic - im not familiar enough with the car yet to do stuff myself, plus the dirt and grime and rust and mud makes it quite difficult to work on without air tools and hoists etc.

either way, not too bad i reckon, considering mitsu i hear want $140 for the boots alone!

mark

Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 7:19 am
by Ian Sharpe
Is your locker a genuine one installed at the factory??

If so, check where the wiring harness from the diff joins the wiring harness from the body. I used the original Mitsu hrness when I installed my locker & over time the connections broke down at the switch & the locker light became intermittent. SImply replace with another type of connctor or you could cut & make the wires a solid connection just make sure you leave enough room for movement.

If its not that then it might be the actual switch itself within the diff housing. The diff will have to come out & the switch costs about $100.
Bugger, eh

BUT CHECK ALL THE WIRING FIRST, it could be a simple one.

cheers