Outer Limits 4x4 Board

am i up for a full on rebuild or would it be safe to assume its just a head off top end rebuild??



Similar thing just happened to me over Christmas - 100% full rebuild required including sleeves & pistons. The blue smoke is caused by cylinder scoring and piston deformation resulting in ...

If you get really stuck you could always try a broken bolt removal specialist (we have one in Brisbane called "Thread Tech"). These guys can get stuff out that nobody else can - they are the true meaning of the word "specialist"

Not sure bogged, there's a few interesting smells in my engine bay :)

I'll have to admit I didn't specifically pay much attention to the weep hole, but I had a pretty fair look all around the place and didn't notice any coolant stains etc. down the front of the engine / timing covers etc.

I'll be ...

Haha ... yes, quite possibly.

The radiator height is mismatched to the engine because of a 50mm body lift at the moment, so I may end up making up some solid pipes in 316L to get the "required" fit ...

I have both boost and EGT - boost was running around 13psi and EGT was sub 500degC, oil pressure was also fine (around middle of the gauge, no sign of sagging etc.). The only thing that was up was the engine temperature gauge - and even then not to the "upper operating limit" mark.

I just got the ...

Viscous coupling ... I have heard various stories about the coupling to the point where people have somehow retrofitted (cough cough) Toyota 1HZ fans / coupling onto their TD42's ... not sure how easy or difficult this is, or even if it's a good idea. The fan "seemed" to lock up the last time I ...

Thanks Winmag - as soon as the engine goes back in, I will definately pressurise the system to make sure there are no leaks.

As you say, all signs point to a leak but I just can't think where there could be a big enough hole to release all that energy!

WinMag,

Have not check the thermostat as yet ... it LOOKS really shiny tho'

No leaks that I could see from the water pump - weep holes were dry and nothing around the gaskets ...

So over Christmas, while towing a 2t camper up a hill in CQ, I sucessfully managed to completely hand grenade my gas-injected TD42 Intercooled Turbo engine - pistons and rings have become one entity, so compression loss is severe on 3 cylinders, and bores are somewhat scored; hence full rebuild ...

No argument with modified ignition timings which requires premium fuel - but premium fuel it often touted as a performance enhancer with no other mods etc. The original post mentioned nothing of timing modification - only advocated the use of premium - in which case you're better off saving your ...

Premium fuel does not provide any additional power - it contains less power (BTU) per litre than 91RON - it does provide knock resistance which allows you to run greater spark advance / slightly more air - i.e. turbocharging.

Check out Heatcraft - their website has a huge listing of all auto a/c parts - including universal type evap / condensers ...

The body lift was not required - There is room to do it without the lift, the clearances would be tighter though - you have to allow some room between the 'cooler, pipework and firewall to allow for engine movement, but it could conceivably be done on a standard height GQ.

Dzltech: I'd be interested to see those figures also - the seat of the pants dyno is notoriously unreliable - the system is not fully tuned as yet so I hope to get those temp readings soon - possibly in conjunction with the dyno.

Tommy: Making up brackets to suit the engine bay AND fit all the ...

The protrusion height needs to be checked - as the rod will invariably be a slightly different length, the piston height MUST match the others relative to the block top deck.

It's usually a matter of fitting it all up, measuring the protrusion height then getting the piston crown machined to suit ...

I have one of those intercoolers fitted to the TD42 - great performance and much easier to mount and plumb in than a FMIC air-to-air, although not quite as good as a custom job from ARE etc. I'm led to believe - but you can't beat the price!

Sounds like your mate got it at about the right price ...

Carling Contura Rocker Switches are also a snap fit - no fiddling required

They are the same ones they use in the ARB Air Locker kits - I use them for everything, because they look so tidy, no drilling etc required.

I use the LED backlit type imported from Mouser electronics in the 'states

What model? Particularly - which compressor model? Sanden, Denso or Other?

Most of them have a single lock nut on the hub, which then pulls off either a splined or key-taper shaft, then there is usually an inside circlip or similar retaining the bearing and pulley.

The bearings aren't cheap, I put ...

not enough fuel it'll start acting like an oxy and melt pistons

Underfuelling a diesel will result in lost power - nothing more. A diesel engine operates in Excess Air mode, it will use the oxygen available to it. Diesels *always* run "lean" technically speaking. If an engine is not running lean ...

Thanks for the replies all - the general consensus would seem to be in favour of the rubber bushes.

The vehicle is actually a GQ and the bushes being replaced are the radius to chassis, radius arm to diff, swaybar pivot, swaybar link pins, and panhard bushes. I think that's pretty covers the lot ...

Hi all,
Just in the process of doing some of the front end bits (tie rod ends, radius arm bushes) etc. that are a bit worn and figured while I'm at it, I might as well replace the rest of the bushes since they are such a PITA to get to.

The question is, which is the better way to go?

Invariably ...

The problem with post-turbo EGT (i.e. dump pipe) measurement, is that the turbo takes out an unknown quantity of heat based on the load on the compressor wheel (a variable - hence the unknown quantity).

Most people assume that this figure is around 100degC.

650 is a dangerous post turbo ...

140rwkw is getting up there - but there would be a couple of ways of attacking it:

As you are wanting to use it for towing, I would suggest that the fast-spool turbos are probably not what you are after, they do not offer more power, they just offer it it a bit faster.

The AXT (and probably Denco ...

Hi AussieGQ - I have a two piece manifold on my GQ and have had no problem with it at all. When they are assembled, they are supposed to have some copper silicone (hi temp) used on them which stops mud / water ingress, not to mention these are fairly tight tolerances anyway between the two pieces ...

Mark @ Australian Diesel Company on Queens Rd in Kingston or Terry at Diesel Australia on Algas St Slacks Creek.

If you're looking for the best machining job in town - Mendham Engineering @ Rocklea - not particularly the cheapest blokes in town, but VERY good at general machinining and engine ...

G'day Tayles,
You may want to post a new thread on this, as you might get more replies ....

So, anyway ... Anything you can do to increase the airflow will help in performance. Fuelling is just as important ...

Nissan (or should I say Zexel pumps installed on Nissans) tend to loose their ...

Agreed - especially in this location where there will always be some degree of flex.

Depending on the size of the hole, you may have some success with one of the Sikaflex products - they are paintable and flexible, I've had (enamel) paint over sikaflex where the trailer wheel arches are sealed (up ...

You should have heaps of room on the RHS of the engine - that's usually where the P/S and A/C are located - if you don't have one or both, you should be laughing!

There are some "spare" bolt holes up the top on the head and block that should be suitable to mount the compressor.

You may be able to ...

Nah ... plenty of room!

Don't know about the York in particular though ... I had a modified Unicla twin piston installed on my old 2H for a while - worked very well - very fast air up times.

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l12/spannercrab/Belt-Drive-Compressor-2.jpg

This photo was taken just ...

2H's are particularly difficult as about the only place to mount them is on the passenger side of the engine above the alternator.

I take it you still have A/C installed?