Outer Limits 4x4 Board

if you do a seal, use a genuine toyota seal, there about $70..money well spent..

after market cheap seals are crap and will leak in a very short time.

i had a detroit in the front, thought it was the beez neez, but after busting countless cv's and and touque steer, then having the centre ,not the crown or pinion break i went air locker.

no having to adjust driving style just push the button

and the rear is welded.........

the spring mounts are the same..youll need the hand brake cable from the wide track, coz there wider apart from that all the same.

NIK wrote:Can anyone confirm that the above pic is a non ifs hub?
Thanks Nik

It is non ifs, its a solid disk, ifs are vented and the off set, to the out side, is greater.

it started out like this


then 2.8 turbo, ruff, custom rear springs, high steer, and countless other bits and peices.

this might help, providing the diffs are still factory ratio..

Example: G292 = 8.0" 4.10 final ratio 2 pinion

Code:
1ST R&P SIZE 2nd/3rd R&P RATIO 4th DIGIT PINION SET-UP
F = 7.5" 07 = 3.900 2 = 2 pinion
G = 8.0" 08 = 4.110 3 = 2 pinion LSD
10 = 4.375 4 = 4 pinion
14 = 4.875 5 = 4 pinion LSD ...

locktup4x4 wrote:A 3" suspension lift without body block is clearing 36" tires. You may have to massage the inner fender well/fire wall with a BFH.

Jason

or you can move the front diff foward, iv done this with mine,its an 82, 4.88, 35's and 2.8 turbo deisel.

they will fit over the ball just be gentle with them, the rubber will strech the felt not so much but it will.

yep, heaps easier.

roll the little boot at the bottom the the stick out of the way and there it is, clip,retaning washer and spring hide below.

the lever will have jumped out of its gate, pull the boots off to expose top of the box, roll back the boot on the transfer lever, remove the sirclip take the lever out and realign, mime did this on the weekend and only took 5 mins to fix.

the oil dump will have to go into the sump, the 3L block is different, as in no hole for the oil dump, but everything else is pretty much the same and dont forget to wind the pump up a little.

the 5speed box is 110mm longer than the 4speed, this also puts the cross member to g/box mounting point out.
apart from that, bolt straight in.

x2 i think they call em an octopus
ali head on cast block so thats what you get.

2.4 and 2.8 are the same the 2.2 are smaller, not sure about 3.0 someone will know
in your case the 2.4 turbo manifold and all the other bits will fit a 2.8, coz thats wats in my ln46

been through this and the 2.8 would be a good thing, they bolt straight in and man does it go then later on you can fit power steer, turbo and all sorts of goodies

iv got a 2.8 turbo deisel runnin 4.88s and pushin 35s. the 4.88s is the only way to go if your going to be running big rubber.

theres a site called solidaxelswappt1 and if i knew how to get the link up here i would but anyway the adress is
www.brian894x4.com/solidaxleswappt1.html
it tells you everything you need.

iv got an 82 model and the same thing,same side,happend to mine as sik lux says clean him up, weld him up and keep an eye on it

this may be silly but the nut has an indent at the top,closest to the outside, this is belted in with a punch to lock the nut on if you can get it ''undinted'' and its a pain to do, but this may help

the vents are going to be put under rear window ledge... to much dust and dirt colected in vents..notice the most important thing.....BUNDY.....rum that is