Outer Limits 4x4 Board

When I did the same I got one of those wet/dry vacs I think I hired it from somewhere and sucked as much as I could out of it which made a big difference. I then made sure to crack the windows open on hot days to let the moisture out as there was still alot in it.

There is a tyre topic about the Trepador and they guy who wrote the original post was using 31s on a Zook, he reported that they were great. I have bought myself some TSLs in that size for my Jeep but have yet to fit them and take them out for a spin.

Not sure of the actual location but it would be a good idea to get a tree trunk protector to use to balance the load accross multiple points, that way you can protect the car as much as possible.

My opinion is somewhat second hand but a few mates have been looking in this area for awhile and one of them said that he felt that the Hilux was just trading on its name thesedays, and if you stand them side by side there wasnt too much that swayed them the way of the Hilux other than the history ...

I had a similar gap on mine along with missing one of the inspection hole covers(rubber thingy). Didnt seem to cause any issue, I think that area is pretty much non-waterproof.

I am pretty sure(its been a while) that the 9.5 diff is a strong sucker and it has a torsen LSD(I think they all came with this). I wheeled mine pretty hard(NL 3.5) with 34s on it and even rolled the sucker without any damage to the drivetrain. I have nothing but respect for the Pajs!

On an XJ 30x9.5 will fit in the stock spare location, whereas a 31" will require either modification of the seat mount, or an external tyre carrier. Thats a very good point the 30 will fit in there fine, pretty much touch both the seat and the rear door. I was wondering could you fit a 31/32 in the ...

Interesting, I found that my clunk was the front trackbar/panhard rod.

Any time, was just some general thoughts I had in that area as I have gone through the same process a number of times.

Thought of something older to save on the initial purchase price? That way you can chuck the savings into a high interest saving account and accrue a little interest. Then spend it on mods(if thats you thing) or on fuel and servicing. I really dont think you can go past the NL Pajero(3.5 petrol) in ...

MightyMouse wrote:except for the @#$% steel cable

I thought steel cables were better for those that use them outside of comps and such due to not requiring as much maintanance.

I have had both manual and auto. First was a manual petrol Pajero and the second is a auto petrol Jeep. I cant say I know how to drive a auto off road as I dont use any special tricks at all that said I am constantly impressed by how much easier it makes things. I will stick to autos for my 4wds ...

For what its worth I used to love my 3.5 SOHC turning 34s with stock ratios, if I could have afforded another one I would have gone down the same path.

Mine runs fine on dual fuel, it actually runs better than my mates Falcon does on LPG. The only tough decision is where to put the tank, I have mine in the boot which allows me to retain the standard petrol tank. The other option is under the back but I think the petrol tank needs to be cut and shut ...

Guys, I have been doing a bit of reading about the axles and their weaknesses. I want to know the life expectancy of stock axles with 35s and a somewhat cautious right foot? Trying to weigh up if it is worth taking the plunge if I am going to have to fork out 3K+ just to make sure I can get home ...

No idea of cost mate, I bought a XJ last year which was already converted and it runs fine. I would suggest going for the tank in the boot if you want to use it as a 4wd so you can still get a full tank of petrol in there.

I did my lift for under $100

Stock used GQ springs for the rear $50
Slimline bolts and bumpstops for the front $20

With that lift and a bit of front bumper trimming I ran 34.6's on a NL(factory 40mm body lift) Pajero with no scrubbing.

Super 30 front, upgraded disc front, over the knuckle steering, Rear dana 44 superior axles arbs front and rear, disc brakes in the rear. Custom driveshaft, slip yoke eliminator. U bolt conversions on yokes. 4.88 gears{?} in the diffs. 6.5" TNT customs long arms front, Rusty 6.5" lift in the rear ...

Yep D30 front D35 rear. Has CV's instead of the Unis on the XJ though so not quite as strong or easy to replace if they break etc. If I was going 35's I'd be puting a D44 in the rear and beefing the D30 as a minimum. Cheers Steve Interesting that they went to CVs for the Grand... Just for reference ...

I've got two Xj's one on 35" and is fairly unstoppable. The other is on 31" and i've just swapped in a new motor so if I can do it in my mother in laws garage then all I can say is that any mechanic who says they are hard to work on should go back to tech. Once you get to know where to look for ...

I can't speak for the discos or jap stuff - but I'll chuck my 2cents out there from the Jeep perspective. Snip! Thanks for a different point of view there, had only really heard from people who's relatives had owned them as daily's, good to hear about them used for offroad. Was very tempted to buy ...

My 3.9V8 is more economical than a mates 4.2 carby and anothers 4.2 efi patrol, i dont know about the earlier ones as the fuel injection is not quite as advanced on the 3.5i's look around there are quite a fewrange rovers with LPG fitted, they're the ones to go for. A 1988 Range Rover Vogue SE 3.5i ...

The best thing about jeep is there are thousands of bolt on parts out there for them, your wallet is the limit. They do chew the juice though. I was pretty sure the V8 rovers would be up there with the fuel use aswell, I doubt a tired old GQ is going to be any kind of economiser either, but I ...

What are the thoughts in the early Range Rovers? As they are pretty cheap also.

Yeah was pretty sure the XJs had leafs in the rear. But there are some very flexy ones around.

Yeah the accessories part I get, but I guess I dont plan on doing any serious modifications as I dont have mates who are into 4wding and its no fun alone

Just had some more of a read, the rear diffs of the Jeeps seem to have a very bad rep.
That said I am not a hard core 4wd'er so I think it might suffice.

At the moment its boiling down to the GQ, Disco, going off the Jeep due to the parts prices that you have all been mentioning.

Couldent find any Gen 2 Pajs that didnt have 300,xxx kms on them. The Gen2.5 Paj has a fairly tough driveline, pretty sure it has bigger diffs in both ends than both the Disco and the Jeep along with larger axles. Just for some info ;) Gonzo - Any particular reason for you claim? Edit: RE The 60's ...

Yeah I didnt think either of them were always moments away from explosion. I guess the attractiveness of the Jeep over the Landy was the price, both are going to have weaker drivelines than my old Pajero and I am willing to accept that.