Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Front wheel drive

Four wheel drive

Streeter

It hooks p with my dig unit

awesome, make with the pic's

Stuff engineered and set up in jigs and manufactured by a professional tradesman/company is a lot different to Back yard Bill welding up his own steering arms with a supercheap brand stick welder and farmer rods I agree completel, but that is a far cry from "AND THE iDEA OF WELDING ANY STEERING ...

unless it's going to keep it, then why install it? plus it sounds like it's not going to last....

it cost me $3500 to build, and i would have just bought a baleno motor if i got the chance again.... dunno what my compression is, and i have all my power between 1000rpm and 4000rpm.

i have shaved block, shaved head, high compression pistons, high lift cams, and $1100 worth of carby tuning timing and jetting recepts. This all is in a 1324cc G13A.... worth it??? not sure, but she can smoke first and 2nd on 205

give me a call if you can't find enyone willing to help.

yep, i had a SU here for a while, i never bothered to put it on but im pretty sure it was off of a merc. i think they run on all angles much the same as the moto carbies the yanks use....

If you have another set of spider gears for the rear diff you can weld them up and it will be take-out-able like a minispool. Thats my cheap advice for today

a welded rear behaves better then a lock right rear....

looks like a maruti hard top....

pull the wire off the tank and earth to the body and see if the needle rises. If it does work then pull the tank out, and make sure the float touch's all the way up

we should meet up for a wheel when she is done preecy

i had a chat with paul the other day, his still not sure of what his doing...

i thought it was 1.3NT and 1.3WT that was the difference. maybey your truck wasn't a WT when it came out from factory.... nice work on the mag shoot btw

lotsa info

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic173442-0.php

grave dig

If he had 4.8 diffs in it on 33s the gearing wouold be back to standard. but gimbo is right when he says that this will cost a bomb. I would just buy twin air lockers an inch or two bigger muddies, spring lift and you will proberly go just as far... don't let tyre size fool you into thinking that ...

boner59 wrote:

alien wrote:if i could afford a LWB i'd buy it and restore it to stock... theyre pretty much collectable now!

Their hard to sell

I own one... lwb full body, can't really beat it

ya started is broke would be my guess, just whack it with a lumpa wood as ya turn the key.... I use to get your problem. so i would find the Allen key bolt on the intake manifold and drain all your rad fluid from there, if it's a stuck choke thing then that may help with the sudden snap of ...

what size are thay?

haha me also

and also if you get foroza springs thee like 6inchs longer... but 60mm wide

Your bar is only as strong as the mounting point....

mrRocky wrote:

where do we find spec's on that truck?

this bar looks real good

i like the 2nd one.. jmo

Im not keen on running my car past 3500 down a highway for ages so i would say go for it and get slighly bigger tyres....

That barwork looks sweet

This is the cam's i was thinking about buying, the 260 cam would suit me but the 272 looks like it would suit you more... But i've been talking to gypsy and i might just be following his lead...