Outer Limits 4x4 Board

You'll have the radiator out for that anyway so might pay to drop it to a rad shop for a good clean out while you're at it.

What sort of car and what sort of fan? If Viscous fan, even though it is spinning it might not be locking up adequately. Most can be repacked with the appropriate fluid. Turn the engine off when it's hot or at operating temp, the fan should be fairly hard to turn by hand. If it's a fixed or electric ...

rockcrawler31 wrote:The rest of the time i fucked my wife, patted the dog, went for a nice walk and drank some beer.

We'll not remember the time you messed up the order and drank the beer first leading you to pat the wife and fuck the dog.

Well we are talking about greasy boxes aren't we?

Well it's not a very good personal lubricant and it's a terrible pie topper.

Check out the online catalogue or give the guys a call at Active Fabrications. I've found them to be very well priced and they give excellent service. Pretty sure they do everything you're looking for.

http://www.activefabrications.com.au" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

So have you had a chance to check for spark yet? Or got hold of the noid tester?

So you have fuel at the rail. Have you checked for spark? If you have spark buy (or borrow if you can) a noid tester to check for injector pulse. Like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-piece-Noid-Light-IAC-Test-Tools-Electronic-Fuel-Injection-EFI-Test-Kit-Case-/131009643670?pt=AU_Car_Parts ...

Thanks for the plug Dan although I reckon I know lots more about camels than I do about Toyotas. ;) Does it miss at idle or only under load? Is it dual fuel and if so, does it play up on both LPG and petrol or only petrol? There are a number of common problems that can occur on the 1FZ-FE. Air flow ...

Is the ABS light on too? Engine light?

Sounds like an ABS sensor or harness fault. A scanner will tell you which wheel.

Perhaps he was talking specifically about the handbrake setup....which really is shite.

It needs a support bush at the end of the column. So does Fakey's.

rayfj40 wrote:Is there any markings on a Hilux diff to tell what ratio thay are? or do you have to pull them out to find the ratio?
Thanks
Raymond

Hai.
A/S/L?

You guys actually understood all that?

Years ago I had a water to air intercooler on a ricer that I just used a bilge pump on. I wired it so it came on with ignition so it was running constantly. It lasted the 6 or so years I had that car and gave me no problems at all, it might still be working today... On my cruiser I also use a bilge ...

8,000km shouldn't be sludging.

5,000km oil changes are ideal in a turbo diesel but 3,000 over once in a while won't cause any catastrophic failures.

If its a low boost (sub 12psi) setup, a basic log manifold will be fine. It's usually only when you start chasing high hp and upping the boost that your tuned length manifold will give you relative gains. DIY log manifold will cost you under $200 in materials to make yourself.

a paying customer with a tight deadline is better than no customer at all. Except when a paying customer is unreasonable and causes a supplier to make a loss to resolve the customer's dissatisfaction with a third party service whose performance - known to be unreliable at Christmas time - is ...

Is the vacuum shift just a matter of changing out the snout on the output of the transfer case? I haven't had to do it myself but I think you just have to swap over the shaft with detent ball, spring and lever, then the manual levers. A few write ups on ih8mud if you want to have a read. Otherwise ...

I cannot give Graeme a big enough wrap for the effort he put in. I dont know if hes found the original one he sent yet, but one thing is for sure, AusPost can suck my asshole. Through no fault of his own Graeme left himself Thousands of dollars out of pocket to please a customer . Well done sir ...

Same box and transfer can be found in any petrol or diesel (FJ and HJ) 60 and 75 series. The only difference will be that some models use a vacuum operated transfer case which is not too hard to swap back to normal shift if you have all the parts.

RoxbyRat wrote: Got a 300km trip tomorrow arvo so will check levels again tomorrow night.

And then?

Have you actually checked the oil levels in both the box and transfer?

Ahh sorry. Thought you changed master cylinders too. Then it definately sounds like the master isn't suited to your new caliper setup, as you suspect. Not being familiar with chev brakes, what is your new setup compared to your old one?

Got much pedal freeplay? What's pushrod to master cylinder piston clearance like?

mkpatrol wrote: Its actually an ADR requirement

You sure about that?

76 Tourer wrote:Sorry to state the obvious but is the transfer in netural ?

If its not. It's time to take the box off. It's not a hydraulic problem.

Yep. Like I said. It is a specific solution to a specific problem, unfortunately not the problem you had. Nothing trumps routine maintenance anyway so regularly checking oil levels will alert you to a problem.......even if it's a coon bandaid fix not doing what you mistakenly thought it would.

One assumes that the vehicle owner knows how the balance tube works before he fits it and as such, knows what problem it fixes. The gearbox overfilling problem is far more common than the other way around and - for a few dollars in fittings and hose - is a low cost and effective solution to an ...

Yeah, you have to completely dismantle the transfer case off the back of the gearbox as you've described to replace the seal. Not my idea of "slip off" like you would with something like a hilux where it's like 4 bolts and the whole transfer comes off. Just making sure we were talking about the same ...