Outer Limits 4x4 Board

You are talking primer here not lift pump. Get an electric lift lift pump and mount it just after the tank. Buddies have them and it makes bleeding a breeze and also helps the internal lift pump on your IP. Also, starting a rotary IP dry is a bad idea. Just because they do it on some pumps doesn't ...

John from BT&T did my 1st power up with std turbo and fule pump and a beaudesert 3" dump piep and straight through exhaust. Great results over and above the motsons stage II tune and kit and a lot lower EGT's... If going down this road definately get a good quality EGT and boost guage BEFORE playing ...

Try speaking to John at Brisbane Tuning & Turbo... he does all the work on my GU 4.2 and it is getting some very good results running 16psi on Garrent BB turbo, modded pump, not intercooled and very safe EGT's. It had a motsons stage II on it courtesy of previousl owner and she's all gone now! Never ...

out of interest... where is everyone putting the filler cap for the system? obviously need to be higher than the IC itself - is this another seperate component i need? While i'm at it, can you guys confirm that this is all i need to fit her all up: 1 x very bling IC (obviously) Heat exchanger of ...

You'd be looking for a Series II or series III GU. AFAIK: The series ones are a little old and some are not turbo obviously and some don't have the internals for turbos, like oil squirters under the bore or something... Series IV onward had intercoolers and as such had slightly smaller turbos, EGR ...

John @ Brisbane Tuning and Turbo, Woolloongabba.

sorry up front for a bit of a hijack - can we also throw up any rear bars for GU's at all...

i just can't bring myself to love a tube rear bar. Prefer a high clearance, and slimline solid bar. Not an agricultural kaymar or similar but a custom one that looks like a front bullbar type of profile...

Where am i in the line?? ETA?? No rush just asking... new financial year would be great

chimpboy wrote:

cj wrote:

ozrunner wrote:Clever.

But I much prefer my electric disconnects as its a lot easier to just reach up and flick a switch

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ozrunner/Suspension2.html

.

What's it off?

I'd like to know too.

x3

I want shiney too now!!

as said - not too much difference... IMHO i reckon the 15" rim (especially 15x10's) with 35" tyres look a little too much like donuts on the vehicle and will attract the boys in blue attention a little more than the 16" & 315's. It just looks a little more in proportion. :cool: I got the 315's on 16 ...

I can't believe this thread!!! It's pretty simple really, as Jet 6 i think said above.... you need to check what you already have first. Most GU utes will have 4.1's std and most GU 4.2L wagons 3.9's. You can check this on your compliance plate XXXXXX41HG or 39HG something like that anyway. Once you ...

Bob it!!! GQ Diffs under it with 35's and a V6 (or V8'd be better)

Then she can out drive all her newfound male mates she will no doubt attract with that set up!! LOL

or PM Giantracing off here

Whats' the go with the Hose clamp on the silicon pipe to crossover pipe join Zoltan??? Looks nasty!!

how about the indoor dunny!!! Drop a post rumbo night AGB in there while the wife is sleeping and see how you go!!!!

bit of a hijack sorry, but when indicating there is a high pitched intermitant squeek in time with the flash from inside the steering column or dash. Really annoying... everything seems to be working fine, just this noise!! any ideas... i've tried a bit of air in there, but was thinking surely it ...

is there such a thing as too high output? If i'm changing, i'd want to go a big as possible like 350amp or so.

That way she'd never die even with everything running... like winching a steep climb at night with all lights a-blaze and the fridge in the back!

Drifta's a good but a bit $$ for plywood and a few hinges IMO

Try Carrolls also (Wacol i think) and i think they and EFS and one and the same or similar or affiliated etc...

Lookin' schmick Rhett

x4

Rear springs out of a Mazda Bravo with main leaf removed. Very nice ride, slightly longer without moving diff position, heaps better flex, and pair with extended shackles and you will probablly need a traction bar to reduce diff wrap, or not... i went without for abour 9 months before fitting mine ...

$8k is getting closer to the mark.... considering a properly done lift with all replacement arms, lines, springs, shocks etc can get clsoe to the $5K mark, plus reduction gears or diff gears to compensate for bigger tyres and it still aint legal... If you can get 4" here and reduction for larger ...

Looks super trick! Good work again Boys...

I've got 35 simex and 315 MTR's under a 4" flexy lift no worries... could be done on a 3" i reckon.

I'm on my way!!!!

but still funny...

Where did you get the flanmge ZOltan?