Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Now where is the Black paint?

Hi all,

I'm just about to buy a 1989 Range Rover Hi line.

It is bright red (not metallic) with the bottom 1/4 of the doore/wings in silver.

The owner says he saw another one once in the same colours.

I.m tempted to spray the bottom red but maybe not if it is a special edition.

Anyone got any ...

For the past couple of months I've been concerned about my '77 v8's oil pressure.
It varies from either full scale to about half scale or anywhere inbetween not dependant on load, temperature etc.
I checked oil level, flushed engine, changed oil x2 still the same.

Yesterday was a bit chilly so I ...

What about dislocation cones instead?

Dave

The 'box level plug is higher than the t-case.

When both levels are correct all is well. Then oil is pumped from the t-case to the 'box... you stop driving and the excess in the 'box flows back to the t-case so both levels are correct again!

Not much help though if hypoid damages the 'box? (Philip ...

If both levels are correct to start with then any excess from the 'box will drip down as far as the 'box level plug and top up the t-case to it's correct level! ;)

I run with no carpets or anything and I can hear the t-case getting noisier aftet a few long hot runs. (about 1/2 a litre a week ...

Thanks everyone.
The point is to "fix" this without pulling the 'box out/apart.
So a bootyfab'd bit of pipe is what it will be!
Philip is .5 of a mill enough??
I was thinking of 6 mill minimum!
I here what you say about going up hills but will hypoid 90 flow through .5 mm hole under it's own steam ...

Anybody know if it is legal to have a side exit exhaust in NSW.

I'm thinking of having it exit between the door and rear wheelarch (2door)

I'm going to bob-tail the car soon and want a really clean looking rear end.

I've seen defenders in the UK with ss pipes poking through the body and they look ...

My LT95 transfers oil from the transfer case to the 'box .
every two weeks I drain the 'box and top up the t-case.
I've heard of an equalisation tube as a fix, just not sure how or where.
Has anyone got a tube? if so how is yours done?

I was thinking of drilling a hole in each filler plug, taping a ...

Thanks guys,
Auto-eng, if you cuold get that number that would be good!
(Post or PM)

Dave

Please don't shout at me... I'm on dial-up and am sick of searching!

Is there an Australian supplier of the Megasquirt kit?

Where did you all buy yours from?

I just want to buy all the stuff in one go, not bits here ther and everywhere!

Thanks in advance
Dave

My Rangie tended to wander and tramline a bit, so I got thinking about a bigger/better steering damper.
I removed the old one, squashed it up and down to accuratly measure its damping ability.
Compared it to an old front shocker....front shock heaps stiffer.
Only problem was it was too long when ...

So, can you just get a new cw&p from the likes of Repco or do you have to get Rover bits?

Thanks
Dave

I have 285/75/16's

I just read that they are the equivalent to 34's
But...they only measure 32"
I've seen this before when my 31's were only 30"

So how do your real 32/34's (JT 2's etc) measure up?

Cheers
Dave

I've bought "Maggots" ARB locker/diff complete.
Is it wise to fit a new cw&p to prevent this happening again?
Can you get upgraded ones...where from & how much?

Cheers
Dave

cheers guys...

do the lockers/solenoids require air pressure to stay locked
or is it a shuttle type solenoid?
(the locker I'm getting is used so no manual or wiring etc)

Thanks
Dave

Anyone running non ARB compressors with ARB lockers?

I reckon the ARB is too weedy to air up tyres, but don't want to have two compressors. are there any dramas using say the Bushranger comp.
I might use my internal roll bar as an air resevoir, anyone else done this?

Thanks for any tips ...

Standard open diff (front) 10 spline 285/75/16's

Short steep hill, (bit too much wheel spin...but not excessive!) clonk/crunch
Thought it was the 'box but turned out to be front diff makin the noise...removed front propshaft and stub axles to get home.

5 broken teeth on the crown wheel bit ...

If you're not rock hoppin then I may just have the rear end for you...

It's a Quaife torque biased LSD, and driveshafts/flanges

Fully automatic no compressors etc and bomb proof.

Costs $2100 new I'm looking for offers around $1000

Check it out on

http://www.quaife.co&#46 ...

I replaced my 4 speed 'box because the old one was ready to explode...seriously bad noises in 3rd & 4th.

Do you think it is worth saving any bits from it (centre diff?) or just bin the lot.?

Also I've got the complete inlet manifold/carbs/gas spuds/aircleaner
(carbs had kits fitted a month ...

If I go with the 10 spline ARB can the setup be improved upon,
ie can you get stronger 10 spline drive shafts and suitable CVs
or are you stuck with standard stuff?
What will break first the shafts or CVs?

(running 32's with moderate right foot!)

Thanks
Dave

I just fitted a "metric" one to my '76...
I rotated it 90 degrees, no problems.
Dave

Hey loanrangie, I think you may have to have your return line switchable as well, so that if you use tank 1 then you return to tank 1...... with a T on the return you will probably over fill tank 2 and give youself loads of problems.


could be wrong but I think it makes sense?

Dave

I just remembered... when you look at the efi valley/manifold gasket you will see the top of each inlet port is curved.(Carby ports are square)
EFI heads have this part of each port machined away so the injector spray pattern has a clear path.
You have to do the same.
I marked the ports using ...

Doh!.....I ment using the petrol tanks simultaniously.....not the gas and petrol!

For me it was dead simple....I just replaced all the fuel lines with high pressure ones (with increased bore) the tank was untouched, apart from the return line bit which had a restrictor in it ( I drilled it out).
Then a high pressure pump and filter was installed in the "flow" line.
The bottom ...

Original tank, after market pump, with pre filter and high pressure post filter. 8mm fuel pipes with efi flexi's.
original ecu/loom from Rover SD1

I have just done this with my '76 3.5.

Anyone need any tips or advice give me a hoy.

Cost me just over $1600 all up.

Dave

Maggot,
how much just for the ARB?,
10 or 24 spline?

Dave


Thanks to everyone for their input...if I was rich I'd go for Maxi's both ends...but I'm not, so I may just chuck a used ARB up front and see what breaks.....

Hmmm, what do you think of leaving the Quaife where it is and put a full locker (jack/Maxi/Arb) up front?