Outer Limits 4x4 Board

google "AWG conversion"
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As long as no winching is involved.
Ensure that it's rated as "continuous duty".



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Is it vacuum-operated 4WD (push-button on dash)?
If so, you'll need to lengthen the airlines between the firewall and transfer case (check the engine-bay, I found a couple of lines longer than needed as part of the emission-control and simply swapped them over - or a few $/m at supercheap etc).


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Solder alone is inappropriate in such a vibration-prone environment. Crimping is more than sufficient (further soldering has it's pro's and con's) if correctly done. One often overlooked point is the mechanical fixing of the cable to the assembly that the crimp-lug will attach to to reduce vibration ...

79DieselLandcruiser wrote: You do need to make sure that both batteries are of the same capacity as you might get a circulating current between both batteries which would take available power away from the winch

Care to explain what you mean by this?
Sounds suspiciously like another myth.



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Should be easy enough to figure out.
What are the terminals on it labelled?


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Sounds like a crook battery (assuming no ALT light or low voltage/excessive current on dash meters (did 40's have ammeter or voltmeter? - can't remember) but could be as simple a loose terminal/poor earth-point. First step check battery (your local auto-elec/battery place should load-test it for ...

PJ.zook wrote:You cant relocate the mic plug per say, its built into the UHF

Would you explain please?
My thinking would be that the only real imitation would be available chassis-space for another bulkhead fitting.



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Can't help with a compatable swap, but small-motor repairers charge about $1/Amp to rewind an alternator to give extra output. Upgrading an old alternator is usually cheaper than a new aftermarket solution.

ed

Yes, I probably can.


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I'd suspect that the fittings/tube are providing enough restriction to cut your flow-rate.
Check the inner-diameters of both (quick test - compare empty-time with and without hose-and-fittings).



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All depends upon the set-up. Many vehicles run dual-batteries solely to winch, others solely for power, and some (like me) who do both. Your auxilliary battery needs to fit the purpose (as does your dual-battery system) it's used for: basically cranking, deep-cycle, or hybrid (respectively) for the ...

Thanks fellas.
I was confident enough to mount them there, but not enough to test my theory. Although I have a basic working knowledge of RF, I'm well aware
that a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing so thought I'd better ask.



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I was under the impression that lights had to be angled slightly downwards (so as not to blind oncoming traffic when you load the back or climb a hill) and have always set mine this way.

I've an old scanner mounted in the car, along with a UHF CB. Aerials at opposite ends of bullbar, so about 3.5' - 4' apart.
Is damage likely to occur to the scanner if I inadvertently transmit on the 477MHz (or 27MHz for that matter) whilst scanning this band?



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Got 33's on my non turbo 60 and they are fine, they are near as dammit the same rolling diameter as 7.50's which are what most 60's are meant to wear anyways, no appreciable change in ecconomy, they do touch with axle articulation but I am running a 2 inch lift only. I've found the same. With 31's ...

Their power consumption should be negligable, but without specs can't guarantee this.
Simple enough to put a relay in series with the +tive lead, switched by your ignition, and then you're 100% safe.



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Excellent work drivesafe. At last there'll be some real-world proof to disprove some of these fallacies that so many mistake for fact. In regards to honesty and integrity, it's worth noting that a lot of these myths are actually created/perpetuated by manufacturers in order to boost sales, so full ...

Been in horse-piddle for a few days and still not clear enough in the head to make comments diagnostics-wise, but definitely still thinking about this. I'm suspecting that we're either missing something obvious/simple, or accumulative errors (variations in ambient temp, meter accuracy, etc) are ...

Now do a rough calc of the Ahrs transferred to get from 11.7 to 12.27 and you'll see how much charge has actually moved.






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Is the 4psi rule applicable to cross-plys? I've got JT2s on a (heavy) 60 series cruiser and run 40psi on-road. As B.D.R said, quite unstable at speed with less pressure. They're rated for 45psi cold @ 1285kg (odd mix of units) and would assume the ET2s to be similar. If so, higher pressures are ...

:lol: I'm not going to get into the "name dropping" scenario, but I work with multimeters everyday. I can also claim the fame for recently "stuffing up" while checking current drain on a vehicle battery. I had a large spike while on one of the lower current ranges go through my own meter (I forgot ...

im a little offended that you reckon i havent a clue about what im saying because i mentioned electron flow, which is not all that hard to understand in its basic principles - whenever there is current flowing there are electrons moving. Current flow is the exact opposite of electron flow. It's ...

everyone here seems to have an understanding of whats going on so it makes for interesting conversation plus its educational (i hope) for anyone reading in - we can teach eachother. by offering your opinion with your 'thoughts' its easy to get it explained/confirmed/denied with reasonable ...

Why do you self-taught blokes continue to argue with those with more knowledge trying to help you?
Listen to Scott.
And if you only "think" that you know the answer, why reply at all?





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My cheapy multimeters simply have a copper strip between the 10A current input and the common connection - presumably calibrated. I've used this connection to short my battery (not intentionally, of course :oops: ) and only figured it out when the display went over-range and the leads became very ...

You'd have to have some serious current issues for there to be over 10 amps being drawn with everything OFF! Definitely The worse case (if there was more than 10Amps) is the internal fuse inside the multimeter would blow. And if the multimeter doesn't have an internal protection fuse then throw it ...

put your multimeter on Current ( DC A =) and remove the battery terminal and put the meter between the batt terminal ant the terminal with all your wires (with the car switched off) and this will tell you how much current you are dragging then you need to isolate the circuits and find which one is ...

Increasing line ID will have a much larger effect on actuator speed than a pressure increase, with no down-side.



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I never stated that a redarc unit was anything other than "a glorified solinoide" (sic), and that actually sums up my general opinion of them pretty well. I said a solenoid or switch was preferrable to the redarc (due to the redarc's switching at battery-sensed voltage). The override function, no ...