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Oil on 80 series rear rim
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Oil on 80 series rear rim
Gday, I have some oil on my rear left rim. Its coming through the slots on the Sunraysia wheel. It looks like fine lines coming from the centre of the rim. Its only a very small amount. I was wondering what is involved with replacing the rear axle seal. Or approx how much to get it done by a mechanic.
Thanks Mick
Thanks Mick
Here, read this, this question was asked not too long ago.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... highlight=
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... highlight=
T.L. 93 80 4.5 GXL Man
Gigglepin winch, beadlocked 37x12.5-17 sticky treps, flip arm, high steer, 6" dobinsons, 33" boss's, longfields, 4.56 diffs, 25% low range, lockers
Team: Cause For Concern
Gigglepin winch, beadlocked 37x12.5-17 sticky treps, flip arm, high steer, 6" dobinsons, 33" boss's, longfields, 4.56 diffs, 25% low range, lockers
Team: Cause For Concern
I just done this job recently. I reckon it was easy as, alot easier then the front bearings any way. Just a matter of removing the axles, brake caliper, disc rotor then the hub. I put all new bearings in and new axle seals in both sides. The hub bearing seal was leaking oil on my passenger side, thats how I noticed it. All the oil just when through the handbrake and out from insideof the rim. Id do both side while your at it. The drivers side bearing was full of oil, but it hadnt started to leak out.
80 Series forum
www.offroad80s.com
www.offroad80s.com
yep, full floating axle. cool eh!?mike06 wrote:Thanks for the replies guys, Out of curiosity Im assuming that I can remove the axle without even taking the wheel off, to access the flange gasket and oil seal. Is this so?
instead of bashing to get the cone washers out, use a couple of M8x1.25 bolts to slowly pull the axle out. should end up with cone washers popping off
cone wahsers
I find one sharp tap with a hammer pops out the cone washers. Tried the bolt method but this is not always successful. The important thing after reassemble is to check tension on the nuts on axle a few days then a few weeks later....
You have just tightened up the 6 nuts without changing the inner axle seal? The bottem line is that there shouldn't be oil at that flange gasket, it should stop at the inner axle seal. Oil will now be mixing in with the greased up wheel bearings which is no good and will eventually leak onto your handbrake shoes and discs brake pads.mike06 wrote:Thanks for the replies. On closer inspection Ive found that the oil is definately coming from the flange gasket. Ive tightened the nuts upto 33nm as per the manual. All the nuts were pretty loose so hopefully this will stop the leak.
Mick
T.L. 93 80 4.5 GXL Man
Gigglepin winch, beadlocked 37x12.5-17 sticky treps, flip arm, high steer, 6" dobinsons, 33" boss's, longfields, 4.56 diffs, 25% low range, lockers
Team: Cause For Concern
Gigglepin winch, beadlocked 37x12.5-17 sticky treps, flip arm, high steer, 6" dobinsons, 33" boss's, longfields, 4.56 diffs, 25% low range, lockers
Team: Cause For Concern
oil mixing with grease not good! wheel bearings won't be lubed correctly will build up heat and eventually fail axle studs will break! failing wheel bearings can also do damage to diff housing.
you defanatly need to remove axle, brakes & hub clean all parts replace all seals & re pack wheel bearings.
good idea to change diff oil as well as it will be contaminated with grease.
you defanatly need to remove axle, brakes & hub clean all parts replace all seals & re pack wheel bearings.
good idea to change diff oil as well as it will be contaminated with grease.
Ok looks like I got some work to do. Thanks for your tips.Dents LN65 wrote:oil mixing with grease not good! wheel bearings won't be lubed correctly will build up heat and eventually fail axle studs will break! failing wheel bearings can also do damage to diff housing.
you defanatly need to remove axle, brakes & hub clean all parts replace all seals & re pack wheel bearings.
good idea to change diff oil as well as it will be contaminated with grease.
Re: cone wahsers
i started doing it this way because my axle flanges were getting buggered by too much hammering. it took a lot of effort to get the cone washers to unseat, but this be because of the detroit. when i last did my wheel bearings i ran a tap through the 2 holes to make life easier next time. helicoil could be an option toostinger wrote:I find one sharp tap with a hammer pops out the cone washers. Tried the bolt method but this is not always successful. The important thing after reassemble is to check tension on the nuts on axle a few days then a few weeks later....
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