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Engineers in Qld?
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Engineers in Qld?
My Patrol is almost ready to roll out of the workshop, which leaves me with the problem of where to get it registered.
The car will live in Qld with my girlfriend so I was thinking of registering it there but how easy and expensive is it to get a engineering certificate up there. I can get it done in Canberra but my engineer is not on the Qld register...
I also read in a past thread that Qld rego doesn't like welded 5 link front setups? Am I going to have trouble? Other mods include 55mm body lift, twin shocks and pnuematic bumpstops, oversized and braced everything, bigger brakes, VH45 V8 and a couple of turbos...
The LPG conversion should be routine, although in the ACT I don't need a cat converter - will I for QLD rego?
Any help would be appreciated!!
Also does anybody where I can buy M22 x 1.5 nuts with a LH thread? (Patrol tierods)
The car will live in Qld with my girlfriend so I was thinking of registering it there but how easy and expensive is it to get a engineering certificate up there. I can get it done in Canberra but my engineer is not on the Qld register...
I also read in a past thread that Qld rego doesn't like welded 5 link front setups? Am I going to have trouble? Other mods include 55mm body lift, twin shocks and pnuematic bumpstops, oversized and braced everything, bigger brakes, VH45 V8 and a couple of turbos...
The LPG conversion should be routine, although in the ACT I don't need a cat converter - will I for QLD rego?
Any help would be appreciated!!
Also does anybody where I can buy M22 x 1.5 nuts with a LH thread? (Patrol tierods)
You wont need a Cat with straight LPG, but i dont think you will get it passed with a welded 5-link. Your best bet would be to register it down there first and then after 12 months transfer it up to here. You should not have as many problems then.
I have a number here of the Only Engineer in QLD that will be able to answer any of your questions with out any "if, buts or maybies". If it can be engineered he can do it. If it cant then no other engineer will be able to legaly do it.
PM me if you want it.
I have a number here of the Only Engineer in QLD that will be able to answer any of your questions with out any "if, buts or maybies". If it can be engineered he can do it. If it cant then no other engineer will be able to legaly do it.
PM me if you want it.
Register it for 12 months in the ACT first..
Just to piss Ray Millar at the RTA off if not any other reason
He's gonna hate your truck, but there will be nothing on it he'll be able to knock back.
They are going hard on mudflaps at the moment, and they'll make you put reflectors on your rear bumper, even though the ADR for reflector heights came in after the truck was built..
Just to piss Ray Millar at the RTA off if not any other reason
He's gonna hate your truck, but there will be nothing on it he'll be able to knock back.
They are going hard on mudflaps at the moment, and they'll make you put reflectors on your rear bumper, even though the ADR for reflector heights came in after the truck was built..
If you register it first in the ACT when you go to transfer the into Queensland you will need a roadworthy. All modifications should be picked up at this point and checked against QLD requirements. They may not but but that doens't make it legal if you get picked up.
There is a 'reciprocal registration' agreement within Queensland Transport to accept vehicle modified and registered in other state but there is no black and white as to what they accept. (Eg. Tubbs are ok in NSW but a definite no in QLD even if you have NSW rego)
I don't see why your steering would be a problem (haven't seen it though) but the person inspecting it should require a bump steer plot (not hard to do) and x-ray certificates for any welding on steering components.
55 body lift would be a no go. These are not covered by mod plates but by individual approvals. Even if you had the ACT engineers report you would not get it through. 50mm is the limit.
Most of the other stuff you have doesn't raise any immediate probs but I would need more information to say for sure. Eg. I have seen cast twin shock mount that would have been ok except that the person fitting them welded then instead of bolting them as they were designed.
If you want send me some more pics and information I can give you a better indication of what you should expect cost wise and hassle wise.
There is a 'reciprocal registration' agreement within Queensland Transport to accept vehicle modified and registered in other state but there is no black and white as to what they accept. (Eg. Tubbs are ok in NSW but a definite no in QLD even if you have NSW rego)
I don't see why your steering would be a problem (haven't seen it though) but the person inspecting it should require a bump steer plot (not hard to do) and x-ray certificates for any welding on steering components.
55 body lift would be a no go. These are not covered by mod plates but by individual approvals. Even if you had the ACT engineers report you would not get it through. 50mm is the limit.
Most of the other stuff you have doesn't raise any immediate probs but I would need more information to say for sure. Eg. I have seen cast twin shock mount that would have been ok except that the person fitting them welded then instead of bolting them as they were designed.
If you want send me some more pics and information I can give you a better indication of what you should expect cost wise and hassle wise.
Wendle wrote:They are going hard on mudflaps at the moment,
Whats up with mud flaps ?
Every time my brother gets pulled over in his Hilux by the cops they comment about not having mud flaps.
But they over look the lifted springs, body lift & 33" mud tyres on 10" rims.
GXL Turbo Diesel 80 series- 6" King springs + Rancho in-cab kit- 35" BFG Muds Twin ARB airlockers.
Rear muflaps must be within 300 mm of the ground (for a 4x4) and cover the full section width of the tyre.
Not having them can throw mud and roadgrime at other cars and create excessive water spray in wet weather conditions.
Some people have little favourites to check. This is an easy one to pick. All you need is a tape measure or a piece of A4 paper to check. Don't need to read any complex calculation or approval letters.
Probably should put some on my 4x4 one day...
Not having them can throw mud and roadgrime at other cars and create excessive water spray in wet weather conditions.
Some people have little favourites to check. This is an easy one to pick. All you need is a tape measure or a piece of A4 paper to check. Don't need to read any complex calculation or approval letters.
Probably should put some on my 4x4 one day...
But will he dob you in if you're breaking the rules... or just wait for PC Plod to find out on his own........
If 1) then cool 8D if 2) then oh oooh!
I don't mind being told "I'm not certifying that" - after all these guys can lose their licence and livelihood for doing a dodgy cert.
I'll see if he likes what I'm planning before I do it.... that normally helps you get away with the mods.....
If 1) then cool 8D if 2) then oh oooh!
I don't mind being told "I'm not certifying that" - after all these guys can lose their licence and livelihood for doing a dodgy cert.
I'll see if he likes what I'm planning before I do it.... that normally helps you get away with the mods.....
RUFF wrote:Ok for all the guys that have PMed me about this engineer. He is not Dodgy so if you know the mods you have are illegal dont bother asking me for his number. He WILL NOT BEND RULES.
Sounds like i wasn't the only one.
I wasn't looking for someone to "bend the rules".
I was hoping he knew something that i didn't as im no expert in this field, that was not my intention.
Just hoping what others have told me was wrong as i hear some rules may be changing !
GXL Turbo Diesel 80 series- 6" King springs + Rancho in-cab kit- 35" BFG Muds Twin ARB airlockers.
auto_eng wrote:Rear muflaps must be within 300 mm of the ground (for a 4x4) and cover the full section width of the tyre.
Not having them can throw mud and roadgrime at other cars and create excessive water spray in wet weather conditions.
Some people have little favourites to check. This is an easy one to pick. All you need is a tape measure or a piece of A4 paper to check. Don't need to read any complex calculation or approval letters.
Probably should put some on my 4x4 one day...
so i assume you're an auto engineer? going by your nickname and the info your posting? i'm just curious about how you guys charge for your services........is it per mod performed, or is it based on time spent inspecting the rig? could you let me know, i have a mate who is needing to get a bit of stuff engineered on his rig (and i wouldn't mind getting some of my stuff done as well)
Depens if you are a dickhead or not. Sound funny but true.
I don't don't make my living out of mod plates/engineers reports. I specialsie in Federal level compliancing and imported vehicles. Because of this I have a lot to do with different state registering authorities and am usually up to speed with the regs.
Mod plate are a tough gig. Depending on the mod you get between $100 and $300 approx. and for that you get to put your head on the chopping block.
I stopped doing state level stuff becasuse it was too frustrating. No one ever wanted to do the job properly. I would have to look at the car two or three times and it would still not be right.
When it come to modification I only get involved because I find them interesting and before I was in the industry I remember how faaaarrking frustrating if was to get any idea of what the rules were.
Most engineers charge per mod plate. Some plates you don't have to be an engineer to do so they are cheaper.
Beer/Jimmy & Jack are all welcome too.
I don't don't make my living out of mod plates/engineers reports. I specialsie in Federal level compliancing and imported vehicles. Because of this I have a lot to do with different state registering authorities and am usually up to speed with the regs.
Mod plate are a tough gig. Depending on the mod you get between $100 and $300 approx. and for that you get to put your head on the chopping block.
I stopped doing state level stuff becasuse it was too frustrating. No one ever wanted to do the job properly. I would have to look at the car two or three times and it would still not be right.
When it come to modification I only get involved because I find them interesting and before I was in the industry I remember how faaaarrking frustrating if was to get any idea of what the rules were.
Most engineers charge per mod plate. Some plates you don't have to be an engineer to do so they are cheaper.
Beer/Jimmy & Jack are all welcome too.
Which plates dont require and engineer??? I though any mod plate had to be by an engineer ? ? ?
BUT WHAT DO I KNOW, my RR will be back on the rough again soon and I need to get an engineer to look at it and tell me whats good and whats not (i want my car done properly) hope fully all the stuff passes (its all bolt on at the moment) I have got about 4.5-5" of lift expected.
BUT WHAT DO I KNOW, my RR will be back on the rough again soon and I need to get an engineer to look at it and tell me whats good and whats not (i want my car done properly) hope fully all the stuff passes (its all bolt on at the moment) I have got about 4.5-5" of lift expected.
Only the LO1, LO2, LO3 (imported vehicle over 15/30year old), brake system design, steering mod design, seat/seatbelt anchorage design ,covertible/limo design require you to be an engineer.
In qld the design and the work are approved separately. If you have an approved plan for a steering conversion you can follow that and you ony require the work to be certified.
Most engineers carry all the codes though.
In qld the design and the work are approved separately. If you have an approved plan for a steering conversion you can follow that and you ony require the work to be certified.
Most engineers carry all the codes though.
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