Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user. If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
After installing all my crap on the truck I knew it was time to upgrade ye ol' generator... After going to the auto electrician I found out that I cannot fit a second alternator due to space restrictions, and an upgraded alternator (~100amps) is basically extinct, due to the vacuum pump located on the rear of the stock unit. He looked through all of his catalogues and couldnt find one suitable.
Has anyone with a Rocky upgraded the stock alternator and if so, what the hell did you use?
I thought along the lines of what the Patrols boys upgrade to, but the later models had a seperate vacuum pump bolted onto the motor, hence the alternator didnt need to incorporate this.
Some of the guys with early GQs I think had a vacuum pump on the alternator, but I'm not overly sure...
I even thought about the alternator from the 1.7L Opel Astra Diesels... they are 100A and have a vacuum pump..... (But I'm not sure what is needed for an alternator to be compatible)
I upgraded from the factory one (40-45A) to a OEX 60A one. The biggest difference I found was turfing the old electro/mechanical regulator for an electronic one. Much smoother output voltage and less problems.
Was a straight bolt up job except I wanted to use the old pulley, so I had to make up a bush to go on the shaft. Fitting the hoses was also a bit of a pain but I made it all work in the end.
Would I do it again? Probably not.
I don't think the quality of the aftermarket stuff (Bosch excluded) is up to the quality of the Denso stuff.
I'm looking at getting the alternator in the new Rocky re-wound which should enable me to get at least the same out of it as the aftermarket one. It's in better condition than the other one.
Also I had to restrict the oil feed to the new one as it allowed to much oil into the vacuum pump and reduced engine oil pressure. Original one has the oil feed directly into the bronze bush rear bearing which restricts the oil flow to the pump, where it gets exhuasted into the sump.
The new one has ball bearings both ends.
Cheers.
If it doesn't have two sticks, I don't wana know about it!
I don't think the old trucks would have too many electrics to worry about Nath... Most newer cars that have heaps of electric gear have higher output alternators.
TabRocky, The F78s come with a 60A alternator stock, so I spose thats 20 amps better than what you guys started with...
Bad thing is, you could have used an alternator from my model without all that stuffing around..
Do many places 'rewind' alternators?... I hear a few people talking about getting it done.. Would be much easier than trying to find/fit a new one.
Where did you buy your electronic voltage regulator from and was it easy to install?
Seen the mate, thinks he paid $280 for a 80amp with vacum pump, thinks it is for a gq and can't renember were he got, I know fat lot of use that is, sorry.
I reckon you'll probably find the alternators are the same in both the F75 and F78. The only difference is the latter ones use a different pully. This is because the timing belt arrangment on the newer DL motors causes all of the fanbelts to sit further forward, hence requirng the pully on the alternator to sit further forward in order to maintain the same engine mounts.
I checked the daihatsu manual just a minute ago and it states a maximum current of 45A @ 3500rpm. This manual covered the DL-42 & DL-52 engines in the last of the F75's (1992)... not that it really matters.
There are many places that do rewinding. Just need to find one locally.
I bought the electronic regulator from Ingram in Adelaide. I think it was also in the OEX catalogue. It is a direct "bolt-up, plug-in" replacment for the factory one. It has a fuse inside for protection and a small trim-pot to adjust the alternator output voltage. I had to reduce mine slightly after I put it in as it was overcharging the battery a bit. If you adjust it, make sure to set the revs at about 2000 rpm and put the headlights on to provide a bit of load. Then adjust the battery volts to 13.8 with a multimeter.
