Hi Guys
I am in the middle of rebuilding a front diff of a 84 Hilux, all looks ok except for a ware marks on the upper edge of the ball joint on the passenger side, in the straight ahead position? Everything looks tight and no slack.
When I fit a new seal kit should I shave or round of the grove(it is about 1 to 2 mm deep and about 3 mm wide)
I thing is covered in grease and oil I am worried if I put new seals in the ball joints it will leak again
Gregories manual I have tells me squat all about the front end!
Also how do you remove the freewheeling spring so I can remove hubs, it is stuck?
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Diff Balljoint rebuild and removing the freewheeling spring?
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
As for the grove and it leaking again the main reson they leak is the inner axle seal leaks which makes the cv grease turn soft/runny and therefore it leaks out mine leaked so i just slaped a set of inner axle seals washed and repacked cv's and they haven't leaked yet and with my diff housing it's got a few groves in there from broken cv's and they've been fine i also think you mean kingpin beaings not ball joints.
with the hub assembly mark it so it goes back together easy undo the 10mm bolts then you may need to gently tap it with a hammer then undo the circlip on the end of cv then undo the 12mm nuts but leave them just on then using a hammer best to use soft hammer (brass or simmiler) hit the part wher the silvery bit of the hub joins the dirty looking bit untill the cone washers pop out then the nuts can come all the way off and then your into the wheel bearings which should be in gregory's manual.
with the hub assembly mark it so it goes back together easy undo the 10mm bolts then you may need to gently tap it with a hammer then undo the circlip on the end of cv then undo the 12mm nuts but leave them just on then using a hammer best to use soft hammer (brass or simmiler) hit the part wher the silvery bit of the hub joins the dirty looking bit untill the cone washers pop out then the nuts can come all the way off and then your into the wheel bearings which should be in gregory's manual.
plenty of parts on the bench
Don't remove the spring, there a bitch to set back up.
When you put a seal kit throw away the shims they give you. Make sure you use the ones that were on the knuckle. Don't understand where the groove is but if you put a new oil seal in for the axle you shouldn't have oil leaking for a long time. You will only get grease coming out when the axle seal wears and lets out the oil and mixes with the grease. I can't see a problem with it.
Remember use plenty of gease in the knuckle.
When you put a seal kit throw away the shims they give you. Make sure you use the ones that were on the knuckle. Don't understand where the groove is but if you put a new oil seal in for the axle you shouldn't have oil leaking for a long time. You will only get grease coming out when the axle seal wears and lets out the oil and mixes with the grease. I can't see a problem with it.
Remember use plenty of gease in the knuckle.
spring
ive spent hrs messing with the set up. its in the manual with sectioned pics in order. so you can do it . start in freewheel not lock on the adjuster dial , thenthere are locating grooves in the toothed inner hub that slides in and out, this holds yr spring in place , its tricky to pop it in use pliers and thin screwdriver. the hard part is locating the shim with the same pronged ends as the hub. there must be no wear or she'll stick and so not unlock /.
i angle ground my edges down so itd fit. tried swapping second hand ones. like anything in a set it all wears to fit. good luck.
i angle ground my edges down so itd fit. tried swapping second hand ones. like anything in a set it all wears to fit. good luck.
my other cars an xwgt silver fox custom xr interior go the windsors!
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