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Now the hubs on the front of most yotas are held on with studs and those stupid cone washers..
i keep breakin the 8mm studs and its a hassel to get the hub drilled out for the 10mm collets if i put in 10mm studs....
now i was lookin at the datsuns and there hubs are jsut held on by socket head bolts.. is there any reason i can't drill and tap out my hubs and used 10mm sockect head bolts too??
we use grade 12 8mm SHCS with std cone washers and have never blown/broken one since. Drill the heads and tie-wire in groups of 3 to stop them coming loose!!(shhh secret!!)
1MadEngineer wrote:we use grade 12 8mm SHCS with std cone washers and have never blown/broken one since. Drill the heads and tie-wire in groups of 3 to stop them coming loose!!(shhh secret!!)
One thing I have found over the years (usually the hard way) is that with cone washers it is important to ensure they remain tight. because you usally remove the cone washers using a hammer and a sharp tap it dints the hub a small amount and over time this dint comes out and the cone washers become loose and movement develops and if not kept in check this movement increases until something breaks...ouch...
My way to over come this is after reassembling the hubs front of rear I retighted the nuts on the hubs after 100kms, then 500kms than 1000kms and then usally every tire rotation (10,000kms). I keep a short 12 mm spanner handy in the drivers door pocket for this and only takes a minute or so per hub. I do not use throw my entire weight into this just a firm hand. Since doing this I have not broken a stud for the last 10 years (on 3 different cruisers) and that is with a lot of abuse (re 35s, diff locks, turbos, heavy right foot)
stinger wrote:One thing I have found over the years (usually the hard way) is that with cone washers it is important to ensure they remain tight. because you usally remove the cone washers using a hammer and a sharp tap it dints the hub a small amount and over time this dint comes out and the cone washers become loose and movement develops and if not kept in check this movement increases until something breaks...ouch...
My way to over come this is after reassembling the hubs front of rear I retighted the nuts on the hubs after 100kms, then 500kms than 1000kms and then usally every tire rotation (10,000kms). I keep a short 12 mm spanner handy in the drivers door pocket for this and only takes a minute or so per hub. I do not use throw my entire weight into this just a firm hand. Since doing this I have not broken a stud for the last 10 years (on 3 different cruisers) and that is with a lot of abuse (re 35s, diff locks, turbos, heavy right foot)
i've never had a prob till 38 x 15.5's and lockers..
1MadEngineer wrote:we use grade 12 8mm SHCS with std cone washers and have never blown/broken one since. Drill the heads and tie-wire in groups of 3 to stop them coming loose!!(shhh secret!!)
stinger wrote:One thing I have found over the years (usually the hard way) is that with cone washers it is important to ensure they remain tight. because you usally remove the cone washers using a hammer and a sharp tap it dints the hub a small amount and over time this dint comes out and the cone washers become loose and movement develops and if not kept in check this movement increases until something breaks...ouch..
Best way to avoid this is to use a copper drift and hit the studs on the end, nothing gets damaged this way. 30mm copper round bar about 150mm long would do the trick.
If the cone washers dont work loose i dont see why youd have a problem, just check them when your airing down before you wheel, would take all of 2 mins.
1MadEngineer wrote:we use grade 12 8mm SHCS with std cone washers and have never blown/broken one since. Drill the heads and tie-wire in groups of 3 to stop them coming loose!!(shhh secret!!)
hey mate wat size tyres etc are u running???
Everything from 35 krawlers to 37 boggers and up, the key is the tie wire, it is a pain to drill a set but you will only ever have to do it once. This setup has seen 2 TT and 5 werocks and countless other comps and never a problem. (other than the busted diff centers and chromo longs! ) but it is an idea to get some chromo hub gears as well!
get a m8 bottoming tap and clean the holes out properly, then use 40-45mm long SHCS.
1MadEngineer wrote:we use grade 12 8mm SHCS with std cone washers and have never blown/broken one since. Drill the heads and tie-wire in groups of 3 to stop them coming loose!!(shhh secret!!)
hey mate wat size tyres etc are u running???
Everything from 35 krawlers to 37 boggers and up, the key is the tie wire, it is a pain to drill a set but you will only ever have to do it once. This setup has seen 2 TT and 5 werocks and countless other comps and never a problem. (other than the busted diff centers and chromo longs! ) but it is an idea to get some chromo hub gears as well!
If you guys had a decent navi, you wouldn't break so much stuff
1MadEngineer wrote:we use grade 12 8mm SHCS with std cone washers and have never blown/broken one since. Drill the heads and tie-wire in groups of 3 to stop them coming loose!!(shhh secret!!)
hey mate wat size tyres etc are u running???
Everything from 35 krawlers to 37 boggers and up, the key is the tie wire, it is a pain to drill a set but you will only ever have to do it once. This setup has seen 2 TT and 5 werocks and countless other comps and never a problem. (other than the busted diff centers and chromo longs! ) but it is an idea to get some chromo hub gears as well!
If you guys had a decent navi, you wouldn't break so much stuff
How is the buggy coming along, Greg?
if dave would stop pervin at chicks on bondi beach and come home we could be ready for rd1
) but it is an idea to get some chromo hub gears as well!
