Transfer lever mods when body lifting?

[John SWB]

I have a 91 shorty that I have body lifted to 45mm above normal.
I then found it won't go into 2wd. After taking the plastic console off around the gear levers I found the transfer lever fouling on the body slightly so I have managed to fix that but now I find that the plastic console fouls it.

So the question is how to fix this problem, I have noticed that the levers them selves flair out to about 25-30mm diameter looking like they have a rubber insert or something inside to cushion shifting. Can this lever can be taken off the lever that is attached to the box itself.I figured I could replace the fat boy lever with a thinner one so as not to foul console.

Any help on how others have solved this problem greatly appreciated.

Cheers John

[Overkill]

When I did our body lift, we had the lever replaced and bent with a bit of heat so as not to cut damage or hit the metal of the body and the plastic of the console. If done right, the body stays factory and you only heat and bend the two levers. If you do replace the gearbox lever with a longer and skinnier one you will hear more gearbox noise in the cabin, due to the dissipation of noise from the rubbers on the factory lever. You do get used to it and learn that the radio is put in there for a reason.

[John SWB]

When I did our body lift, we had the lever replaced and bent with a bit of heat so as not to cut damage or hit the metal of the body and the plastic of the console. If done right, the body stays factory and you only heat and bend the two levers. If you do replace the gearbox lever with a longer and skinnier one you will hear more gearbox noise in the cabin, due to the dissipation of noise from the rubbers on the factory lever. You do get used to it and learn that the radio is put in there for a reason.

Point taken on the noise issue,looks like that is only option perhaps.
Not to keen to chop up the plastic at this stage to keep original lever.

Thanks John

[Bitsamissin]

With mine we extended the t/case & gearlevers 2" by cutting and welding in an extension piece (below the fat bit).
We also heated the extended levers and bent them slightly to find the best position (took a few goes).
There was no need to cut anything (floor or console).
Worked well but it is tricky to get exactly right.
The fat bit does come off the lever there is a circlip underneath the rubber that you remove and the top half slides off then you could weld an extension piece and thread the end for the gearknob.

[-Scott-]

I didn't extend my gearlever, but I bent the transfer lever to make everything work. I had to grind out a crimp to separate the two parts of the transfer lever, then my neighbour tacked it back together when I'd finished.

The bend was eventually done cold (big extension bar, vice on a solid bench, and judicious application of benditude...)

When I'd finished I had full range available, but then I replaced the transfer case . The mechanic who did the swap attacked the floor pan to obtain clearance, but I haven't noticed any grinds in the plastic.

I do notice the stock gearlever is a little on the short side, but I can live with it.

Cheers,

Scott

[John SWB]

Thanks for the replies gents,but tell me did you take the transfer lever off the top of the gear-box before you applied your remedy's.

I think there is three or so little bolts that bolt the ball and socket arrangement together on the transfer lever. Would I be right in saying that this is the way to have the lever out for the mods?

Cheers John.

[J Top]

Yes, and they only go back in 1 position
J Top