G'Day All!
My Wife has a 95 Feroza (Narrow Track) and has finally finished off her Kingsley Side Steps on the trip last weekend (bless her heart).
We took them off and are now looking for an alternative.
As I see it we have 2 roads to go down:
Option 1- We go for a small Body Lift, something in the order of 30mm, to get the Body well and truely above the Chassis so nothing hits the sills. With the existing 1 and 1/2 inch suspension lift, this will then allow us to fit some bigger rubber (say 31/10.5R15) on some spook offset rims to increase track. What is involved in the 30mm Body Lift, is there any mod's need to be undertaken? Will 31's be ok on the Fro?
Option 2- We find some quality Rock Sliders- does anyone have any good ideas or plans for a set?
Input would be fantastic! Thanks!
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Feroza Sill Protection (or Lift (Body) and Tyres)
Moderator: Tiny
http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y285/R ... 20Sliders/
Have a gander through there. Some pics of my rock sliders and some that I copied the idea off. It's pretty straightforward.
As for BL, offsets and tyres, dunno about Feroza guards but I came to the conclusion that if i were to run offsets on my rocky, the tyre's would be scrubing on the 'outside' of the guard, on the lip, not inside the actual wheel well, so lifting it more wouldn't help cause you'd have to lift the outer guards out of the way of the tyre when flexing = ALOT of lift
. So if I ever do this i'll be grinding a few inches off the gurad to let the tyre clear when flexing.
Have a gander through there. Some pics of my rock sliders and some that I copied the idea off. It's pretty straightforward.
As for BL, offsets and tyres, dunno about Feroza guards but I came to the conclusion that if i were to run offsets on my rocky, the tyre's would be scrubing on the 'outside' of the guard, on the lip, not inside the actual wheel well, so lifting it more wouldn't help cause you'd have to lift the outer guards out of the way of the tyre when flexing = ALOT of lift
. So if I ever do this i'll be grinding a few inches off the gurad to let the tyre clear when flexing.60 + Turbo, 33"s :armsup:
Body lift WILL help to avoid tyres scrubbing on the front guards. Depending on the brand of tyre (not all 31's are the same size), you'll generally need a 50mm body lift to avoid scrubbing at full compression.
You can do a 25mm (approx.) BL using the original bolts, I'd give that a go first and see how that goes.
Maybe also go for slightly extended shackles and wind up the torsion bars a little more to give you a bit more lift and rear travel. That'll also help a little towards avoiding scrubbing with 31's.
For increased down travel on the front, you can shave your bumpstops and even consider a ball-joint flip.
edit: Taking off/changing the front mudflaps will also give you a little more clearance for the tyres.
You can do a 25mm (approx.) BL using the original bolts, I'd give that a go first and see how that goes.
Maybe also go for slightly extended shackles and wind up the torsion bars a little more to give you a bit more lift and rear travel. That'll also help a little towards avoiding scrubbing with 31's.
For increased down travel on the front, you can shave your bumpstops and even consider a ball-joint flip.
edit: Taking off/changing the front mudflaps will also give you a little more clearance for the tyres.
bru21 wrote:What happens in goat, stays in goat!
You will need sliders even if you body lift it... After its lifted you will just try harder stuff and wreck your sills 
If you are doing any moderate wheeling, sill protection is a must have.
I also made some rock sliders in the last week or so... quite like F70s
I used 50x50x6mm RHS for the main beam and also for the supports to the chassis plates. I sandwiched the chassis rails between two 8mm steel plates with 4 grade 8 bolts and braced the crap out of all welds on them... and its working a treat so far.
If you intend to do a body lift... DO IT FIRST!
Your sliders wont move if you body lift it. They will stay in the same location and you will have a gap the size of the BL.
You will also have to move your bumpers up to get rid of the gap.
If you are doing any moderate wheeling, sill protection is a must have.
I also made some rock sliders in the last week or so... quite like F70s
I used 50x50x6mm RHS for the main beam and also for the supports to the chassis plates. I sandwiched the chassis rails between two 8mm steel plates with 4 grade 8 bolts and braced the crap out of all welds on them... and its working a treat so far.
If you intend to do a body lift... DO IT FIRST!
Your sliders wont move if you body lift it. They will stay in the same location and you will have a gap the size of the BL.
You will also have to move your bumpers up to get rid of the gap.
With the larger 31s clearance is an issue they still touch the inner guards at full travel so some body lift is needed.
And on the subject - winding up the bars increase the spring rate but more importantly removes all your droop travel meaning the little darling will pick up front wheels and loose traction so much more easily...
As for spacers there are suspencion and steering issues here ( bearing loading - scrub radius etc etc ) that make this a not so good idea and as someone stated the tyyes then touch the outer rear of the guard badly.
So you CAN fit 31's but its a compromise with many issues.
If it was me I would lift the body to fix the inner guard issue and maintain whatever droop travel you have and trim the rear of the guards and fit a small rubber flare to cover the removed metal.
Its not that 31's wont go on - its just that they create issues with travel and guards.
And on the subject - winding up the bars increase the spring rate but more importantly removes all your droop travel meaning the little darling will pick up front wheels and loose traction so much more easily...
As for spacers there are suspencion and steering issues here ( bearing loading - scrub radius etc etc ) that make this a not so good idea and as someone stated the tyyes then touch the outer rear of the guard badly.
So you CAN fit 31's but its a compromise with many issues.
If it was me I would lift the body to fix the inner guard issue and maintain whatever droop travel you have and trim the rear of the guards and fit a small rubber flare to cover the removed metal.
Its not that 31's wont go on - its just that they create issues with travel and guards.
got 31 x 10.5's on my fez. Had a 40mm body lift (dead easly), see the WARFS web site on this. crank the torsion bars up nealy all the way. And still, turning on rutt's / hill it strubs outon the rear side of the wheel arch, Even after removing mud flaps. as well as the rear guard slicing off my tread. The rears sagging a bit though. Rims = 15 x 8" ,Also you'll need 50mm flares to keep the pigs off ya back.
McFroza
Watch the actual tyre sizes a so called 31 will in most cases be smaller ( 30.5 to 30.75 ) but others can be larger 31 actually measures 32.5.
Would be easier if you could just go by the published size but.......
Rim width is also worth watching without offest ( carefull..... ) there''s not much clearance betwenn the tyre inner and the upright with 31x10.5 with 7 inch rims. Bigger tyres call for wider rims and they could touch.
As kjbolt says a lift is easy but hurts your stability a little. Things that could be too short are the line to the fuel filter ( loosen and lower ) the lines to the MAP sensor ad idle up solenoids ( drill and lower ) and the vacuum line to the brake booster ( replace or extend - but make sure to keep the internally fitted check valve ). The front bumper ends up in the wrong place but can be shifted up as well. My winch is behind the front
bar and shifting it up is a BIG job......
I have 25mm rear and 50 front.
Would be easier if you could just go by the published size but.......
Rim width is also worth watching without offest ( carefull..... ) there''s not much clearance betwenn the tyre inner and the upright with 31x10.5 with 7 inch rims. Bigger tyres call for wider rims and they could touch.
As kjbolt says a lift is easy but hurts your stability a little. Things that could be too short are the line to the fuel filter ( loosen and lower ) the lines to the MAP sensor ad idle up solenoids ( drill and lower ) and the vacuum line to the brake booster ( replace or extend - but make sure to keep the internally fitted check valve ). The front bumper ends up in the wrong place but can be shifted up as well. My winch is behind the front
bar and shifting it up is a BIG job......
I have 25mm rear and 50 front.
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