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Did you fit them yourself? Because i know it is very easy to nick or mark the oring as the end cap as it slides over the locker end,i say this because the first three lockers i fitted at work ended up leaking then i learnt an easy way to fit without damage.Also is the oil in your diff clean as some foriegn matter may have gotten caught between the locker and the oring.Anythings possible
How long you use them shouldnt realy matter. At least its good to see someone who cleans their oil after trips. are you running an ARB compressor,if not what compressor are you using and what pressuer is it putting out.If you are is the pressure switch and the solenoid working correctly?
I had mine installed by someone who does it everyday - I've never had a problem. I think its a good idea to engage them at least once a week, remember reading it somewhere in the manual.
BLODY HELL KEV your not haven much luck with yours or ya bros are ya
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Mathew wrote:How long you use them shouldnt realy matter. At least its good to see someone who cleans their oil after trips. are you running an ARB compressor,if not what compressor are you using and what pressuer is it putting out.If you are is the pressure switch and the solenoid working correctly?
Just the standard ARB setup, yep the switch & solinoids are ok, The pressure is at 100psi untill i engauge the rear locker then drops & comp kicks in.
Once you have air out the diff breathers you know theres a problem.
Also have a pressure relief valve so it defenatly hasen't over pressured the 0-rings.
Area54, thats what i was thinking, maybe i should run them more often
MQ080 wrote:Mate of mine had dif oil coming out from the air line in the comp, what could this be from? Oseal again?
I had the same symptom, just a very fine dusting of oil mist on the bonnet deadener sheet. Apparently this is normal, my local shop was happy to install a breather/drain extension on the solenoid for nothing.
if you have oil coming back up through the soleniod ,
it is from the "C" seal (cup seal) inside your centre !!!
depending on how old your set up is , it may only be a seal ,(not a "C" seal )
if that makes sense !!! to replace this seal , diff out & full pull apart !!!!
ARB actually recommend running LSD oil , as to not degregate the rubber compound of the seals !!!
MissForbyNoob wrote:
and one day i'll just become a worthless housewife.
some oil out of the exhaust of the solenoid valve is normal. if there's heaps it can be a problem but normally just flush/blow out the air line, cycle the locker a dozen times, flush/blow etc, it will go away. it the locker is working fine don't worry about it.
Kev I hear a lot of this problem, and every time it seems to come down to installation. it's a difficult stage of the installation and it's easy to get frustrated when it doesn't all fall together nicely, ESPECIALLY when you're a do-it-every-day and you're racing the clock. the only other thing that causes the orings to fail is water ingress causing the oil to emulsify and thin.
oh! check the level of your diff oil - if it is low it's possible that the orings won't quite seal.
the good part (if there can be one) is that the rear diff only takes about half an hour to drop, the orings only take about 20 minutes to change out (assuming that's all that's wrong with it), and another 40 mins to replace the diff - so the bill for fixing it should only come to a couple of hours of labour and a few bucks for o-rings. or don't be scared to do it yourself, it's not as hard as rebuilding a gearbox or as annoying as plastigauging big-ends :)
Ya wouldn't belive it, its come good ! For how long i don't know.
I took it for a drive today over bumpy dirt track & tried it again & all is good. I hate intermitant problems !
For the guys who have oil coming out the air line, apparently ARB have a dump valve that vents the air back in the diff housing instead of at the solinoids. Sounds like it has to be installed on the inside though.
Locker fixed but now i have bent/twisted my steering somehow.
that happens to my front one occasionally, but I always put it down to not having driven it for weeks at a time. lock the hubs and drive a few metres and its all good again.
I have heard rumours about this dump back into the housing gizmo, does anyone have more info/pics?
Be careful who does the rebuild!! I trusted my rear locker to a prominent driveline mob in Canberra (recommended by ARB). The centre needed a new C seal and o-rings before fitting after sitting in the shed for a few years. All good, works fine... on the next oil change I find little bits of shim like material, so I drop the centre and find the ^&&^%wit had fitted the lock tabs under the bolts holding the case together. The washers had shredded and the case bolts were on the way out. Fortunately there was no damage done, but it could have been serious. I was doing some hard 'wheeling in Tassie at the time, and a busted diff would have been a pain in the ^%%.
The lock tags are a one use only item, that sit over the head of the bolt and lock into a groove on the case.
u aint havin much luck r ya Kev?
i barely eva have probs with my locka
i have used it once in thye time i have owned the car(15-16mths)
good luck fixing it kev
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your not haven much luck with yours or ya bros are ya 
