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lex v8 in hilux conversion

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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lex v8 in hilux conversion

Post by cooter »

motor in wiring done tailshaft made radiator in all in under 3 weeks and for less than 3.5 grand

used a surf auto with a crown bellhousing and torque converter
all wiring done at home pi$$ simple should be on the road buy weekend after next :armsup: :armsup: :armsup: :armsup: full gq diff and coil conversion done in 4 days as well all for under $1000
pays to shop around for bits and pieces will post up some pics when i get a chance
http://www.4wdaction.com.au/shed/index.php?id=1097&im=1
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Post by zookdave »

jeez thats the cheapest ive heard someone putting one in for. nice work!
how many hours did you put into the conversion???
any pictures yet?
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Post by booflux »

Good work it only took my mechanic 5 months to fit it and another 6 months to sort out all the problems he created :bad-words:
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Post by mattyd »

Can you tell us more?

How much was the engine - and was it a front cut or just the engine that you bought...?

Can you provide a cost break-down ? $3.5k is not that much money for such a nice engine swap.

Any particulars you can give would be greately appreciated...

Oh, and good work on such quick and in-expensive work. :D Well done.

Matt
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Post by MissDrew »

Per item break down would be good.
Does the 3.5 include engineers? Cause there is another $600. Plus then you need the blue slip $50ish, its all part of the conversion costs.

I also used a CRS rear sump which was $600, not everybody needs this.

So that jumps it up to $4700.

My convo cost me about 5g 100% finished and ready for rego and I did more then I had to with things like a remote oil filter which was another $100ish and oil cooler which was a couple hundred with hoses and fittings.
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Post by cooter »

motor box and loom $1300 ichiban
surf auto $400

6mm plate had lying around
2.4 hilux rear shaft was the right lenghth $20
xe v8 falcon radiator $ 40 local wrecker
we used the centre sump from a crown no clearance issues due to gq diff conversion
no need to relocate filter raised engine and box a tad to aid gearbox protrusion
all radiator hoses home made from falcon radiator hoses and steel bends


other small bits and peices added up to bout 40 dollars so the total is about 2k engineer rego and oil filters etc will all come to about 1000 so leaves 500 for custo rear sump later just in case gota flex her up and make sure the panhard doesnt hit the sump has heaps of room but you never know
Image
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Post by cooter »

will get johns phone to get the rest of the pics
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Post by MissDrew »

Cool.

Have you got Air flow meter and ECU?
Have you got the shifter for the auto?
Have you got the bigger brake pedal? As far as I know this will be needed for engineers and rego.
What have you done with the handbrake pully?
What about fuel pump?
What about power steering lines?
The rear shaft will die very quick.
The auto will also die DEPENDING on what sort of driving you do and what tyres etc you run.

What year model Hilux?
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Post by Frankenyota »

What's wrong with the surf auto?
Not up to the power output of the v8.
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Post by MissDrew »

For normal driving etc its fine.
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Post by cooter »

using drum handbrake on the gearbox and a hanbrake lever from a mk patrol

95model lux and we are using the v8 box that came with the motor with the rear of the boxes swapped
motor came with everything and we had a holdn fuel pump layin round
as for brake pedal grafting a falcon pedal in
power steering lines we made ourselvs borrowed some hose and fittings from work
we are goin to get a shifter on sat from the wreckers cheap

we were goin to run the surf box but the electronics are different so we thought bugga it and use the lex box

unless we can find the relevant wiring diagrams then we will just wire the surf box up till we fit the gq transfer case
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Post by ozrunner »

Anyone that does their own conversion themselves no matter what it is always gets my vote rather than those that drop it off at a shop etc.

But seriously mate using the Toy auto with a $40 used Falcon radiator just isn't going to cut it and you will have water and trans oil heating issues so be wary and fit some good aftermarket gauges.

Keep the pics coming.
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Post by jessie928 »

cooter wrote:using drum handbrake on the gearbox and a hanbrake lever from a mk patrol

95model lux and we are using the v8 box that came with the motor with the rear of the boxes swapped
motor came with everything and we had a holdn fuel pump layin round
as for brake pedal grafting a falcon pedal in
power steering lines we made ourselvs borrowed some hose and fittings from work
we are goin to get a shifter on sat from the wreckers cheap

we were goin to run the surf box but the electronics are different so we thought bugga it and use the lex box

unless we can find the relevant wiring diagrams then we will just wire the surf box up till we fit the gq transfer case
a quick question if i may :)

in the hilux/4runner would there be enough room to run a divorsed transfercase out of an early patrol MQ/MK and stil have reasonable rear tailshaft length??
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Post by Sic Lux »

ozrunner wrote:Anyone that does their own conversion themselves no matter what it is always gets my vote rather than those that drop it off at a shop etc.

But seriously mate using the Toy auto with a $40 used Falcon radiator just isn't going to cut it and you will have water and trans oil heating issues so be wary and fit some good aftermarket gauges.

Keep the pics coming.
Falcon radiators are 3 core thats all they run in 308 holdens and the like so why wouldn't it cool good enough and good work mate
plenty of parts on the bench
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Post by Redboy »

I am on your side by the way

But on the radiator, they need to be able to keep the engine cool with a decreased air flow rate. With the lack of room in the lux people like myself, and others, have had heaps of trouble getting in good air flow.

My radiastor in something with good air flow would probably keep it too damn cold. But for me it is just right.

On the auto, forget Guts ( :twisted: ) the UZ auto is just fine for those of us who don't do comp driving. We had a big discussion on this not long ago and my opinion is still that UZ auto is fine for on and off road for most of us who don't drive comp trucks (like his).
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Post by Hales231271 »

PWR alloy radiators are your friend! ;)
For 1uz-te conversions into small hilux engine bays.
Otherwise good luck keeping them cool in all types of conditions.

Cheers
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Post by Clown Boy »

Oh yeah.

I run a PWR Alloy from battery to battery wide, thick as would fit from top of engine bay to bottom of front cross member.
2x9" thermos (now removed and single 16" thermo being installed when I get home tonight)
Digital temp guage
Rear facing scoop
PWR transmission cooler
Holes cut in my bullbar

I stay cool onroad but overheat when offroad (the 16" thermo is hopefully going to stop that).

Even if you don't take the other advice - install the digital temo guage so you know what is happening - don't trust the toyo one.
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Post by booflux »

ozrunner wrote:Anyone that does their own conversion themselves no matter what it is always gets my vote rather than those that drop it off at a shop etc.
But seriously mate using the Toy auto with a $40 used Falcon radiator just isn't going to cut it and you will have water and trans oil heating issues so be wary and fit some good aftermarket gauges.

Keep the pics coming.
Not everyone has the skills confidence or tools to undertake such a job, this is why shops exist ;)
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Post by booflux »

Redboy wrote:I am on your side by the way

But on the radiator, they need to be able to keep the engine cool with a decreased air flow rate. With the lack of room in the lux people like myself, and others, have had heaps of trouble getting in good air flow.

My radiastor in something with good air flow would probably keep it too damn cold. But for me it is just right.

On the auto, forget Guts ( :twisted: ) the UZ auto is just fine for those of us who don't do comp driving. We had a big discussion on this not long ago and my opinion is still that UZ auto is fine for on and off road for most of us who don't drive comp trucks (like his).

I agree radiator wise I am also running a large dual bypass aluminum one. I have used this with twin falcon thermos. It works great mine does not overheat at all even being a clown on the beach in really hot weather.
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Post by BundyMonkey »

Firstly congrats with the conversion.....I have just done a similar conversion on my Bundera however I kept the R151f box. It ended up costing me around 7000 and I did the majority of the work myself with the exception of wiring and mounting the motor and exhaust. I also went for a stainless exhaust as I am on the beach a fair bit and mild steel just dont cut it.

As for temp issues I have had none....if anything it runs to cold in the soft stuff up the beach its top temp was 87 and cruising on the highway it sits between 75 and 80. I am running a 3 core bundera rad with twin AU thermos.
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Post by MissDrew »

Redboy wrote:On the auto, forget Guts ( :twisted: ) the UZ auto is just fine for those of us who don't do comp driving. We had a big discussion on this not long ago and my opinion is still that UZ auto is fine for on and off road for most of us who don't drive comp trucks (like his).
Guts wrote:For normal driving etc its fine.
Did you read this :roll:

But anyway :armsup: to cooter for doing it so cheep and beingable to get it going so quick.
But you`ll have issues with things and have more dollars to spend once its on the road again.
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Post by simkell »

But you`ll have issues with things and have more dollars to spend once its on the road again.[/quote]


yes you have. but nice truck.
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Post by cooter »

yeah there will be dramas but its all part of the fun it is my best mates truck and between us we can pretty much sort any dramas outas for the falco radiator it cools a 351 in an xe engine bay so i think it should cope
with au thermos and a massive oil cooler we should be sweet
(oil cooler was sittin at work bolted to a iveco radiato for the pwr steering which will have its own thermo probobly as well as a larger auto sump


and jessie yes there would be heaps of room to run a divorced transfer only prob is the centre rear diff and mk transfers are off to 1 side and trust me it causes vibrations
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xe

Post by tuf045 »

i thought that the xe v8 rad would be to wide and would foul on the steering box?
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Post by cooter »

does but we just spaced it out 12mm
it is a gq steering box on it aswell
tuf045 you would know the car more than likely whithe dual cab on 35s lives in brooks st used to sound like a cattle truck
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Post by tuf045 »

cooter wrote:does but we just spaced it out 12mm
it is a gq steering box on it aswell
tuf045 you would know the car more than likely whithe dual cab on 35s lives in brooks st used to sound like a cattle truck
yeah mate i know the car should be cool when done.
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Post by mico »

Clown Boy wrote:Oh yeah.

I run a PWR Alloy from battery to battery wide, thick as would fit from top of engine bay to bottom of front cross member.
2x9" thermos (now removed and single 16" thermo being installed when I get home tonight)
Digital temp guage
Rear facing scoop
PWR transmission cooler
Holes cut in my bullbar

I stay cool onroad but overheat when offroad (the 16" thermo is hopefully going to stop that).

Even if you don't take the other advice - install the digital temo guage so you know what is happening - don't trust the toyo one.
I originally had my V6 runner rad modded to suit and it was fine in all conditions except on the beach where it would run hot if I wasn't driving into the wind, Hopefully the 75 series rad will fix this single heating issue
if it ain't broke send it to me i'll fix it!
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Post by cooter »

does any one have an ecu to auto harness diagram for a 91-93 hilux so as we can drive her
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Post by mico »

look here I'm pretty sure there are diagrams [/url]www.lextreme.com[url]
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Post by rixrunner »

Guts wrote: The auto will also die DEPENDING on what sort of driving you do and what tyres etc you run.

What is the best auto to marry up then :?:


Ricky
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