Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
FITTING A CUSTOM TUBE BAR... TO WHAT???
Haven't done it (yet) but thought about it. I would Get myself an RHS just smaller than the zook chassis rail and insert inside zook chassis rail as far as it will go, then bolt it in with say 3(??) Grade 8.8 M14's. Should give you about 20-25Tonne worth of load capacity.
Could do the same thing I guess with plate, and then build the tubes out off the plates.
Just a guess.
Ado
Could do the same thing I guess with plate, and then build the tubes out off the plates.
Just a guess.
Ado
BRADEN TAGG, owner of XRO RACING
I like the idea of being able to clean the chassis out with the hose and not trapping it inside.... unlike this pick.=SKB= wrote:Found this idea a while back:
Might be helpful.
the sierras are great for being able to clean the inside of the chassis, as for the vitara... there are so many rusty ones because there is no way to flush the chassis from front to back...???
Outerlimits - where right is wrong and wrong is right - Does your mum know your on here?? its past your bedtime little kids
The tube is still there, I have though of reinforcing that tube as well.
It's a similar concept, but rather than crush tubes, there is an exactly fitting solid block inside the rails, so the force is spread more evenly.
I only have one recovery point on at the moment, will get same done on the other side - this will make for a nice even pull along both chassis rails, not just one side which could bend things.
It's a similar concept, but rather than crush tubes, there is an exactly fitting solid block inside the rails, so the force is spread more evenly.
I only have one recovery point on at the moment, will get same done on the other side - this will make for a nice even pull along both chassis rails, not just one side which could bend things.
90 WT Tin Top - Stock noisemaker and gears :(
i like the look of that bar. i am chasing the same sort (without the middle loop) for my NT. does anyone know of a good place to get one made up in WA?
cheers
cheers
2" Susp lift, Ext shackles, RTC damper; Offsets, Custom interior panels, Stereo (+Sub), rubber Checkerplate floor, Custom Centre console, Under bonnet storage
Soon: Aircon + tinting?
Soon: Aircon + tinting?
on the same topic (sorry to hijack) does anyone have some good ideas for a rear bar to match the front. i was thinking of going down the same build as p_byrnes above for the front bar and nto sure of a rear setup.. nothing fancy but simple.. and usable. pref with recovery points incorporated into the design.
cheers.
(i do have a few pms off perth4x4 so will follow those up in the meantime.. if anything is solid i will take photos for all etc)
cheers.
(i do have a few pms off perth4x4 so will follow those up in the meantime.. if anything is solid i will take photos for all etc)
2" Susp lift, Ext shackles, RTC damper; Offsets, Custom interior panels, Stereo (+Sub), rubber Checkerplate floor, Custom Centre console, Under bonnet storage
Soon: Aircon + tinting?
Soon: Aircon + tinting?
Here is how I did my rear bar and also my front bar.smiley_smoke wrote:on the same topic (sorry to hijack) does anyone have some good ideas for a rear bar to match the front. i was thinking of going down the same build as p_byrnes above for the front bar and nto sure of a rear setup.. nothing fancy but simple.. and usable. pref with recovery points incorporated into the design.
cheers.
(i do have a few pms off perth4x4 so will follow those up in the meantime.. if anything is solid i will take photos for all etc)
I havnt got any pics of the mounts but the front is bolted on same as above and the rear is bolted through the old towbar holes in chasi.
R.I.P Brock Fontanini 28-3-06 - 16-2-08
www.teamcarnage.net
www.teamcarnage.net
i am not too bothered. i want neat and functional. was leaning towards tube for the front and box for rear.nicbeer wrote:Do you want tube or box?
Mines box and strong as inc tyre carrier.
Nic
a rear bar with tyre carrier would be great actually. you make it yourself Nic?
2" Susp lift, Ext shackles, RTC damper; Offsets, Custom interior panels, Stereo (+Sub), rubber Checkerplate floor, Custom Centre console, Under bonnet storage
Soon: Aircon + tinting?
Soon: Aircon + tinting?
hi i have just built a winch mount for my 413. plate goes between chassis rails on horizontal with plates down chassis rails bolted through holes as shown above. then have 2 vertical plates with hal circle cut out going onto round cross member. then 2 u-bolts up into plate locking hole unit onto croass member. have sleeved cross member with another tube for xtra strength. will try and post some pics once i have painted mount but before i put it on and after. may mount tube type bar to it at some stage.
to bend break would need to tear four 12mm high tensile bolts out of chassis and bend/break cross member
hpe this helps
to bend break would need to tear four 12mm high tensile bolts out of chassis and bend/break cross member
hpe this helps
sounds good. i have decided on my design though. its based on the calmini C2 .. just better
will be making it in the new year and possibly making two at once (may sell the other one)
chose this one as it should be good for articulation and will prevent rubbing when i get bigger tyres as it doesnt require the outter bumper mounts (cut em off)
i just cant make em at my stupid unit.. need to sweet talk my mate into to using his welder etc.
here is a pic from a guy called Max in Netherlands. been chatting to him lately, he is a real champ and has helped out a lot.
hope he doesnt mind me posting his pic here
will be making it in the new year and possibly making two at once (may sell the other one)
chose this one as it should be good for articulation and will prevent rubbing when i get bigger tyres as it doesnt require the outter bumper mounts (cut em off)
i just cant make em at my stupid unit.. need to sweet talk my mate into to using his welder etc.
here is a pic from a guy called Max in Netherlands. been chatting to him lately, he is a real champ and has helped out a lot.
hope he doesnt mind me posting his pic here
2" Susp lift, Ext shackles, RTC damper; Offsets, Custom interior panels, Stereo (+Sub), rubber Checkerplate floor, Custom Centre console, Under bonnet storage
Soon: Aircon + tinting?
Soon: Aircon + tinting?
Hi all. I've been trying to nut this idea out for the last year or so (for my brothers' Sierra). I like smiley_smoke's one.
Does/has any got/seen how the ARB winch bars mount up?? I love the other bars - but i've got a nice fresh Warn high-mount sitting in my shed that i'd like to put on my recently aquired '91 W/T.
Surely a company like ARB would have some whizz-bang flash way of mounting a winch-bar up. For $1300 you'd bloody want it too!!!
Cheers - Coxy
Does/has any got/seen how the ARB winch bars mount up?? I love the other bars - but i've got a nice fresh Warn high-mount sitting in my shed that i'd like to put on my recently aquired '91 W/T.
Surely a company like ARB would have some whizz-bang flash way of mounting a winch-bar up. For $1300 you'd bloody want it too!!!
Cheers - Coxy
Yeh right. Basically ueses the outriggers that hold the factory bumper and the 4 x chassis holes. + pure luck.
This is how my arb is modded for the 2" BL as arb is not made for a BL. basically a box with curved back to fit inside chassis rail and then bar onto this.
Non winch bar and winch bar mount the same.
Nic
This is how my arb is modded for the 2" BL as arb is not made for a BL. basically a box with curved back to fit inside chassis rail and then bar onto this.
Non winch bar and winch bar mount the same.
Nic
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
Also arb bars dont fit a high mount up at all. low 6000 only i thinkcoxy321 wrote:Beauty... Thats a bit dissapointing then. Spose i'll have to knock off one of the other guys' ideas then hey!!
Coxy
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
Winch bar
I'm in the process of building my winch bar. I'm fitting a 9500lb electric. I used 130x8mm for the uprights which bolt to the four holes at the front of the chassis(with 'cyclone rod joiner' crush tubes). 130x8 x 575 between these sits on the pipe crossmember. 2 5000kg 50mm round U-bolts clamp to this pipe. 2 braces of 50x6 run at a 45 back to the chassis where it is U-bolted with 100mm square u bolts. Theres also two holes each side in the front body mount pedestals, might use them too. I'll cut the ends off and use the centre section of bumper bar to cover the winch and mounts with just the fairlead, gear lever and solenoid box visible. 50mm round pipe for the ends in a triangle. When finished the front of the fairlead should only be about 50mm further out than the number plate used to be. I have a three inch body lift which really helps!.. I have it two thirds finished. I'll post more pics when done.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 76 guests