Well, i got and built my V3 board, and its all loaded with the Extra code and tests up fine. But now i'm concerned - I was going to use the signal from the reluctor in the dizzy as a tach signal, since I want to control ignition also, but I'm seeing that the Extra code seems to expect a missing tooth when set to VR, and I don't remember there being a different tooth inside a rover dizzy, nor a reason why there would (early electronic ign dizzy).....
Can I get away with just using the signal from the existing setup in the dizzy to drive my squirt, or do I have to buggerise around setting something else up? I'm hoping not, since I should have most of the bits I need to install it by the weekend....
Also, does anyone know how much the ground pins matter on a V3 board? I found this diagram for a rover V8, but I'm not sure whether it means use any pins other than the four marked as outputs for ground, or whether they should go to a specific pin?
http://www.fuddymuckers.co.uk/gallery/m ... xIGBTs.jpg
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Megasquirt?
Moderator: Micka
Hi
First question depends on what you are using for spark . Are you going to use the dissy and single coil , ie just take over the timing , then the signal from the dissy should be fine . You set the dissy codebase output .
The diagram you posted is using 4 coil outputs ( this could run a rover in wasted spark mode and have no dissy ) , to time this setup you would need some sort of missing tooth or second trigger input . The ecu needs to know where tdc is so it can fire the coils in the correct order . With a dissy this is done by the rotor etc .
Second question , again that is a custom setup so unless you have followed his ecu setup there are a bunch of wired not needed , I have only ever wired up as per the wiring from the instructions , plus a couple of optional ones for my nissan install .
So really need to know what you are trying to do be of more help .
Chris
First question depends on what you are using for spark . Are you going to use the dissy and single coil , ie just take over the timing , then the signal from the dissy should be fine . You set the dissy codebase output .
The diagram you posted is using 4 coil outputs ( this could run a rover in wasted spark mode and have no dissy ) , to time this setup you would need some sort of missing tooth or second trigger input . The ecu needs to know where tdc is so it can fire the coils in the correct order . With a dissy this is done by the rotor etc .
Second question , again that is a custom setup so unless you have followed his ecu setup there are a bunch of wired not needed , I have only ever wired up as per the wiring from the instructions , plus a couple of optional ones for my nissan install .
So really need to know what you are trying to do be of more help .
Chris
I will be running stock dizzy and coil. So if I've selected 'Distributor' under the codebase/outputs menu, that will happily deal with the dizzy reluctor? And then I can just leave the feed to the coil disconnected whilst I get it running on fuel only?
And the question of the wiring was, to clarify - should I avoid grounding to those 4 four pins (table switch and the three coil outputs) in case of it having an effect of trying to switch something (due to the Extra code), instead of being a ground? The instructions for the V3 board show 5 ground wires, and one for the tach input - does it matter which pins out of the top row you actually wire the grounds to, since they are apparently all connected?
And do you need to wire one of the dizzy pickup wires all the way back to the Megasquirt, or can you just earth it to the motor somewhere?
If you can remember whether you used inverted VR or not, and which way round you connected the wires from the actual sensor, that would be most helpful....
And the question of the wiring was, to clarify - should I avoid grounding to those 4 four pins (table switch and the three coil outputs) in case of it having an effect of trying to switch something (due to the Extra code), instead of being a ground? The instructions for the V3 board show 5 ground wires, and one for the tach input - does it matter which pins out of the top row you actually wire the grounds to, since they are apparently all connected?
And do you need to wire one of the dizzy pickup wires all the way back to the Megasquirt, or can you just earth it to the motor somewhere?
If you can remember whether you used inverted VR or not, and which way round you connected the wires from the actual sensor, that would be most helpful....
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
I never had my rangie running ignition . All I did was wire the ecu to take a -ve coil feed as tach , that was all the factory ecu takes .
Earths I would say just wire in those listed on the assembly diagram , there could be extras on the other diagram . I think it is recomended to wire all the grounds as listed as the pins on the db plug can only take 5 amps , several grounds spread the load , like the injector wiring .
The way I see it you can do one of three things .
One - Wire the ecu for -ve coil feed to start with . You would then need to change jumpers etc to control spark .
Two - Wire up VR sensor and tap into existing wires and not control spark . leaving th esisting wiring in place . Think this would work .
Three - Wire it in completely and just have o deg timing maps etc . Thus the dissy is doing the timing until you lock it up etc .
I will be doing option three once I get another ecu .
The vr wires from the dissy to the mega will need to be sheilded wires and run all the way from the dissy to the ecu . They are prone to interferance etc .
Earths I would say just wire in those listed on the assembly diagram , there could be extras on the other diagram . I think it is recomended to wire all the grounds as listed as the pins on the db plug can only take 5 amps , several grounds spread the load , like the injector wiring .
The way I see it you can do one of three things .
One - Wire the ecu for -ve coil feed to start with . You would then need to change jumpers etc to control spark .
Two - Wire up VR sensor and tap into existing wires and not control spark . leaving th esisting wiring in place . Think this would work .
Three - Wire it in completely and just have o deg timing maps etc . Thus the dissy is doing the timing until you lock it up etc .
I will be doing option three once I get another ecu .
The vr wires from the dissy to the mega will need to be sheilded wires and run all the way from the dissy to the ecu . They are prone to interferance etc .
I've had nothing to do with the V3 board - but I doubt it will take a signal from a reluctor directly, you will probably need to add a circuit to convert the ac wave form into a square wave (schmit trigger?, basic circuit ).RangingRover wrote:I will be running stock dizzy and coil. So if I've selected 'Distributor' under the codebase/outputs menu, that will happily deal with the dizzy reluctor? And then I can just leave the feed to the coil disconnected whilst I get it running on fuel only?
And the question of the wiring was, to clarify - should I avoid grounding to those 4 four pins (table switch and the three coil outputs) in case of it having an effect of trying to switch something (due to the Extra code), instead of being a ground? The instructions for the V3 board show 5 ground wires, and one for the tach input - does it matter which pins out of the top row you actually wire the grounds to, since they are apparently all connected?
And do you need to wire one of the dizzy pickup wires all the way back to the Megasquirt, or can you just earth it to the motor somewhere?
If you can remember whether you used inverted VR or not, and which way round you connected the wires from the actual sensor, that would be most helpful....
IMO - piss the dizzy off, buy a coil pack - V3 drives them direct (I think)
Ex-Army - SeriesIII -186s - NP435 - Maxi rear - megasquirt coilpack ignition - AM FM radio with 2 X speakers
Yep, Buick HEI (easy and cheap to do).what do you mean by GM reluctor? have you replaced the stock rover dizzy pickup?
Mega squirt ignition settings:
IGN input capture- - Falling Edge
Crank TRigger- --Trigger Rise
Spark Output---- Going High inverted
76 2door, 4speed, airlocker front + rear, 4.4, megasquirt efi+ignition.
76 2Door (The Green One), C4 LPG
76 2Door (The Green One), C4 LPG
well, tried to get a signal from the vr sensor in the dizzy, then decided I couldn't be bothered rooting around at the moment, so resoldered my Hall sensor circuit to take a tach signal, and with much swearing got my connector soldered up, hooked in the map sensor...
decided I couldn't be assed putting the oxy sensor in for the moment, and am currently wired into the afm for a air temp sensor. Thought well bugger it, doesn't really need the oxy sensor hooked up to start, and intake air temp won't make much difference... turned the key, and it started instantly, on fridgefreezers rough map. Which scared the crap out of me...
Problems I have though, is that the TPS is jammed at 99%, and is always in flood clear mode at start - if i was to set flood clear threshold to 255 points, it wouldn't flood clear, i imagine, since the TPS calibrates at 254 (regardless of position). the TPS works when i test it with a multimeter, even at the DB37 connector its resistance changes quite happily, from about 6.5k (i think, I'm bad with the scales on my multimeter) right down to about 1000 ohms - no dropouts, and all smooth....
Is there any changes needed for the early rover TPS to work?
The intake air is reading at -40 degrees, but since I'm planning to get a commodore intake temp sensor anyway, I wasn't bothered by that for the moment.
The other issue I had was that i switched it off with coolant temp at about 65 degrees celcius (seems about right according to my dash guage), and then it wouldn't start again. It had just dropped to 100% warmup enrichment, which i think is equivalent to none, yes? I started it a few times before that, quite happily....
Is the TPS signal (read flood clear!) likely to be causing this issue, or do I need to look harder (ie. change warmup times/decay curve etc)?
decided I couldn't be assed putting the oxy sensor in for the moment, and am currently wired into the afm for a air temp sensor. Thought well bugger it, doesn't really need the oxy sensor hooked up to start, and intake air temp won't make much difference... turned the key, and it started instantly, on fridgefreezers rough map. Which scared the crap out of me...
Problems I have though, is that the TPS is jammed at 99%, and is always in flood clear mode at start - if i was to set flood clear threshold to 255 points, it wouldn't flood clear, i imagine, since the TPS calibrates at 254 (regardless of position). the TPS works when i test it with a multimeter, even at the DB37 connector its resistance changes quite happily, from about 6.5k (i think, I'm bad with the scales on my multimeter) right down to about 1000 ohms - no dropouts, and all smooth....
Is there any changes needed for the early rover TPS to work?
The intake air is reading at -40 degrees, but since I'm planning to get a commodore intake temp sensor anyway, I wasn't bothered by that for the moment.
The other issue I had was that i switched it off with coolant temp at about 65 degrees celcius (seems about right according to my dash guage), and then it wouldn't start again. It had just dropped to 100% warmup enrichment, which i think is equivalent to none, yes? I started it a few times before that, quite happily....
Is the TPS signal (read flood clear!) likely to be causing this issue, or do I need to look harder (ie. change warmup times/decay curve etc)?
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
BAH. Note to self, read wiring diagrams more carefully. Just clicked as to why my TPS is up the creek - I didn't connect the ground wire to anything - product of scribbling wiring colours off Fridges diagram onto the one in the assembly instructions I printed. So that should fix my tps issues, but I still don't get how it started while apparently being in flood clear 
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
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