OK, went to Nissan Service, and asked about whether I can service my diesel's Viscous Coupling, as I'd heard that the diesel ones are already serviceable, whereas the petrol ones have to be drilled out to be made serviceable.
The guy behind the counter just looked blankly at me and spoke to a guy out of sight behind a divider who is their "diesel minded bloke", who confirmed that yes, the diesel ones can be serviced (that part I heard him say from behind the counter), and then I got relayed the very helpful info "you remove the fan, pull it out, just remove the cap and put the oil in"
This part could have been a tad more precise for my nervous liking.
Asked where to get the oil, he said, "ACT Off Road" but I just went down the block to Toyota and bought theirs. I don't think Nissan would like their staff sending clients to Toyota for stuff, but I'm reliably informed it will do the job.
I now have two tubes of their silica oil ready for the viscous coupling.
Any further info on how to go about getting it where it's sposed to be before I set about destroying my engine would be a great help.
Thanks in advance
Zook
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Fixing the viscous coupling on a 4.2 - DIDN'T WORK !
Fixing the viscous coupling on a 4.2 - DIDN'T WORK !
Last edited by Ezookiel on Tue Feb 13, 2007 4:43 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Whoa, that looks like a lot more work than the Nissan guys comment about removing the cap and refilling it.
Those photos appear to be for an fj40, this thing is a turbo diesel Nissan Patrol, isn't the fj40 a type of Toyota.
I saw in another thread elsewhere, which when I'm not on my work computer where personal use is limited to very short uses, I'll go search for. That you can just drill a hole to fill them from, which might seem easier than pulling it apart.
There's a thread here that shows how and where to drill the holes, and then that makes reservicing easier in future, but I'm not thrilled at the idea of the potential for metal shards from drilling the hole getting inside.
I might try combining the two jobs. Separating it as you've shown, but drilling a hole while it's apart, so I can be sure of no shards getting in.
But for someone who's previous total work on a car has been oil changes and brakes, and helped to install a radiator (read: handed the guy his tools mostly) this is nerve wracking for a NFI mechanical-noob.
Oh well, it's only a $15000 job to replace the car if I frig it up.
Those photos appear to be for an fj40, this thing is a turbo diesel Nissan Patrol, isn't the fj40 a type of Toyota.
I saw in another thread elsewhere, which when I'm not on my work computer where personal use is limited to very short uses, I'll go search for. That you can just drill a hole to fill them from, which might seem easier than pulling it apart.
There's a thread here that shows how and where to drill the holes, and then that makes reservicing easier in future, but I'm not thrilled at the idea of the potential for metal shards from drilling the hole getting inside.
I might try combining the two jobs. Separating it as you've shown, but drilling a hole while it's apart, so I can be sure of no shards getting in.
But for someone who's previous total work on a car has been oil changes and brakes, and helped to install a radiator (read: handed the guy his tools mostly) this is nerve wracking for a NFI mechanical-noob.
Oh well, it's only a $15000 job to replace the car if I frig it up.
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its to give you an idea of how to do it.. there isnt a specific page for every make and model of car on the planet available, bumma that eh.Ezookiel wrote: Those photos appear to be for an fj40, this thing is a turbo diesel Nissan Patrol, isn't the fj40 a type of Toyota.
if the old stuff has gone hard and fucked, new stuff wont work for long.
The Nissan clutches are very similar to the link that bogged put up. And simple to pull apart and re-assemble.
One word of warning though, when I did mine, the bearing had gone to heaven and as soon as I put the new fluid in, I sprayed it all over front of the engine. Unfortunately the bearing is not a servicable item.
Just check the bearing condition before you waste your time.
One word of warning though, when I did mine, the bearing had gone to heaven and as soon as I put the new fluid in, I sprayed it all over front of the engine. Unfortunately the bearing is not a servicable item.
Just check the bearing condition before you waste your time.
OK, well, it sure didn't go according to plan.
The coupling wasn't an original, and was sealed permanently, there were no screws to open it. So I couldn't open it up at all and had to resort to plan B, where I just drilled two holes (assumed two would be more balanced as it spins, and allow air out as the oil went in as well)
It had the words, "parault" and "Japan" on the two flat areas where I've drilled those holes, but I filed the words off to make a smooth flat surface for the screws to sit flush against.
The unit was stone cold motherless empty.
Holding it vertical, and blowing into the top hole got less than a drop of oil out of the bottom one.
It then took just a whisker less than two full tubes of the Toyota oil put into the first hole before it started appearing out of the other hole.
I filled the holes with two screws loctited into place, and the difference was noticeable even before I put the whole lot back in the car. The shaft was noticeable stiffer to turn, and that was with the unit cold.
Alas, I won't get to try the job out now till late tomorrow, because I've decided that while the whole thing is apart, that I'll replace the bottom radiator hose with a reinforced one cause where it bends it has just the tiniest kink in it. Not enough to be a problem, but what the hell, since we're doing the job we might as well do it as thoroughly as possible.
So I'll buy a reinforced hose at work tomorrow, and put it on tomorrow arvo, and then finish putting the whole thing back together for a test drive.
Can't wait to see the result, I can already tell it's got to make a difference based on how much firmer the whole thing is to turn.
The coupling wasn't an original, and was sealed permanently, there were no screws to open it. So I couldn't open it up at all and had to resort to plan B, where I just drilled two holes (assumed two would be more balanced as it spins, and allow air out as the oil went in as well)
It had the words, "parault" and "Japan" on the two flat areas where I've drilled those holes, but I filed the words off to make a smooth flat surface for the screws to sit flush against.
The unit was stone cold motherless empty.
Holding it vertical, and blowing into the top hole got less than a drop of oil out of the bottom one.
It then took just a whisker less than two full tubes of the Toyota oil put into the first hole before it started appearing out of the other hole.
I filled the holes with two screws loctited into place, and the difference was noticeable even before I put the whole lot back in the car. The shaft was noticeable stiffer to turn, and that was with the unit cold.
Alas, I won't get to try the job out now till late tomorrow, because I've decided that while the whole thing is apart, that I'll replace the bottom radiator hose with a reinforced one cause where it bends it has just the tiniest kink in it. Not enough to be a problem, but what the hell, since we're doing the job we might as well do it as thoroughly as possible.
So I'll buy a reinforced hose at work tomorrow, and put it on tomorrow arvo, and then finish putting the whole thing back together for a test drive.
Can't wait to see the result, I can already tell it's got to make a difference based on how much firmer the whole thing is to turn.
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That's what I'm hoping.
So annoying that if the thieving mongrel who was meant to have done the job in the first place had actually done this job, I may never have had to chase my arz trying to find other causes.
Well, that'll teach me to do things myself instead of get others to do it, which is a good thing actually.
So annoying that if the thieving mongrel who was meant to have done the job in the first place had actually done this job, I may never have had to chase my arz trying to find other causes.
Well, that'll teach me to do things myself instead of get others to do it, which is a good thing actually.
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Well, it worked fine on the first two hills, kept the temp gauge to 45%
Even though those same hills used to take it to 70%.
Problem is, powering up the THIRD hill it got to just above half, then quite quickly shot up to 98% of the gauge. I had to pull over, let it cool enough to limp it home, and it never dropped back below about 90% the whole way home (even downhill) but the hill up to my house saw it hit the H and it was blowing small bubbles into the overflow tank when I got out.
It was obvious some had overflown from the overflow tank, and once nicely cooled back down, it took 2 full litres to top it back up.
The words going through my mind aren't pretty, and aren't printable.
BTW. My first thought was that wherever the coupling oil went the first time, it may have gone again, but It doesn't appear to be that, because the oil is still there and there's still a lot of resistance (was very strong resistance when the engine was overheated)
Even though those same hills used to take it to 70%.
Problem is, powering up the THIRD hill it got to just above half, then quite quickly shot up to 98% of the gauge. I had to pull over, let it cool enough to limp it home, and it never dropped back below about 90% the whole way home (even downhill) but the hill up to my house saw it hit the H and it was blowing small bubbles into the overflow tank when I got out.
It was obvious some had overflown from the overflow tank, and once nicely cooled back down, it took 2 full litres to top it back up.
The words going through my mind aren't pretty, and aren't printable.
BTW. My first thought was that wherever the coupling oil went the first time, it may have gone again, but It doesn't appear to be that, because the oil is still there and there's still a lot of resistance (was very strong resistance when the engine was overheated)
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have you replaced ALL of your hoses and even your heater core????because I've decided that while the whole thing is apart, that I'll replace the bottom radiator hose with a reinforced one cause where it bends it has just the tiniest kink in it. Not enough to be a problem, but what the hell, since we're doing the job we might as well do it as thoroughly as possible
a slight soft kink when cold = a squashed flat hose when the water pump is workin its ass off
No, I replaced the bottom hose with a spring-reinforced, and corrugated version, that is designed to flex at the corrugations, and it's worked brilliantly. Sits very nicely without even much in the way of stress on it, let alone anything that will kink it.
The only other hose I even know where is, is the top hose, and it certainly isn't kinking at all.
What's the heater core got to do with it? How would I replace it, and what would it cost.
The only other hose I even know where is, is the top hose, and it certainly isn't kinking at all.
What's the heater core got to do with it? How would I replace it, and what would it cost.
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gq
Have you pulled the radiator out and hosed out the crap out of in between the cooling fins?? It takes a lot of hosing. If you havn't removed the radiator you won't get it all properly and don't forget the air cond condenser
Remember some days your the pigeon and other days your the statue
not so much do they look good... they may be old and soft, which when hot with water travelling through them will be "sucked" closed causing heating issues.
your heater core is in under your dash, never done one in a patrol but they are always lotsa fun and swearing.
they are essentially a small radiator with a fan and a tap... flick your car to heating turns the tap on. (if you are over heating turn on your heater, will act as a 2nd smaller radiator and soak a bit more heat outa the system)
might be some info on here about removing and clearing them.
Simon
your heater core is in under your dash, never done one in a patrol but they are always lotsa fun and swearing.
they are essentially a small radiator with a fan and a tap... flick your car to heating turns the tap on. (if you are over heating turn on your heater, will act as a 2nd smaller radiator and soak a bit more heat outa the system)
might be some info on here about removing and clearing them.
Simon
other thing to look at is the fan on your a/c condenser
mine has a stuffed bearing and doesnt work as well as it should.
when doing heavy 4wding or long hill climbs car heats up but soon as i switch a/c off it cools back down
might be worth a try
mine has a stuffed bearing and doesnt work as well as it should.
when doing heavy 4wding or long hill climbs car heats up but soon as i switch a/c off it cools back down
might be worth a try
1hd-fte 5 speed tiptronic 105 series
78 series troopy for work
gu ute play truck For sale
FTE 80 series sahara Sold
i think i have a problem
78 series troopy for work
gu ute play truck For sale
FTE 80 series sahara Sold
i think i have a problem
Check thermostat just in case... It maybe sealed pernamently after over heating...
Although... What strikes me as it cannot be this:
1st 2 hills = fine (Thermostat circulating with cold water in radiator)
3rd = overheat (All the water is now getting warm progressively)
But I would still check it... Plonk it into boiling water to see if it opens/closes.
Although... What strikes me as it cannot be this:
1st 2 hills = fine (Thermostat circulating with cold water in radiator)
3rd = overheat (All the water is now getting warm progressively)
But I would still check it... Plonk it into boiling water to see if it opens/closes.
Don't expect to see my recipe, until I receive my cheque and collection fee
if i've kept up with your post history, you've checked or replaced most of the cooling system (and the engine....)
Long shot... You don't have an insect screen at the front do you? A previous owner had put flywire behind the grill on mine and I was amazed at the difference it made once I removed it.
Another long shot... your viscous hub looks like one off a petrol rather than a diesel. I know the petrol / diesel hubs require a different fan, but I'm not sure why - is it simply a different bolt pattern, or does the diesel fan move a greater volume of air (and thus your petrol one(?) is not pumping enough air when the going gets tough?)
You seem to be having a never ending story of grief with your overheating issues.
Long shot... You don't have an insect screen at the front do you? A previous owner had put flywire behind the grill on mine and I was amazed at the difference it made once I removed it.
Another long shot... your viscous hub looks like one off a petrol rather than a diesel. I know the petrol / diesel hubs require a different fan, but I'm not sure why - is it simply a different bolt pattern, or does the diesel fan move a greater volume of air (and thus your petrol one(?) is not pumping enough air when the going gets tough?)
You seem to be having a never ending story of grief with your overheating issues.
hi mate,
if you havent already done these three things give them a try.
1. fill your radiator from COLD and put the front up on ramps. Fill slowly with engine running.
2. gut your thermoustat, leave only the top ring, take everything else out, plunger, springs everything
3. THis may sound stupid to you but make sure your fan blades are bolted onto the viscus hub the right way around. They may be bolted on the wrong way.
Jes
if you havent already done these three things give them a try.
1. fill your radiator from COLD and put the front up on ramps. Fill slowly with engine running.
2. gut your thermoustat, leave only the top ring, take everything else out, plunger, springs everything
3. THis may sound stupid to you but make sure your fan blades are bolted onto the viscus hub the right way around. They may be bolted on the wrong way.
Jes
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
why dont you just sell the thing, you have been trying to get it right for months and its cost you a fortune and you have got no where. it would seem to me that your rig is a piece of sh#t with serious issues. if i where you i would just trade it in at the local car yard or send it off to auction.
just my 2 cents worth
just my 2 cents worth
If you hear your fan working then that is not your issue!!
One thing i have found with my gq is if going up a hill on a warm day i try to keep the revs up above 2000rpm even if i can do it in higher gear. This way the engine is spinning faster and the fan is able to pull alot more air through the rad!!!
I have done the mod of drilling the hub and it works great!!!!!!
One thing i have found with my gq is if going up a hill on a warm day i try to keep the revs up above 2000rpm even if i can do it in higher gear. This way the engine is spinning faster and the fan is able to pull alot more air through the rad!!!
I have done the mod of drilling the hub and it works great!!!!!!
Last edited by Jimbo on Wed Feb 14, 2007 10:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
GQII Patrol YAY!!
A possible solution that I just read on the Patrol.com site. May be of interest.
Is your fan 5 or 8 bladed?
And that looks like a Petrol Viscous Hub, looks exactly the same as mine (TB42).
Check out for more info:
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthre ... #post52804
Is your fan 5 or 8 bladed?
And that looks like a Petrol Viscous Hub, looks exactly the same as mine (TB42).
Check out for more info:
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthre ... #post52804
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