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MAXI DIFFS N AXLES OR NISSAN WHICH IS STRONGER??

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

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MAXI DIFFS N AXLES OR NISSAN WHICH IS STRONGER??

Post by lokka »

Gday all

Would like some opinions on which will be stronger at turning 35's on a rangie
full maxi set up cv,s axles and diffs or full nissan housings and internals

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Post by Slunnie »

Good question. What about Hilux centres in Rover also?
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Post by lokka »

Slunnie wrote:Good question. What about Hilux centres in Rover also?
Yep that would be ok too

will the lux centrs go in easy ???
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Post by Slunnie »

I haven't done it, and there is a good write up on here, though its restudding the Toyota 3rd member to suit the rover housing, and axles + flanges to suit which Jack McNamara manufacture. The axles are also stronger being 1.3" 30 splines or whatever the toyota spec is. You can also now get the new Rover Longfield CV's with a lifetime warranty for the front, and they seem to think that they're fine for touring also.
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Post by up2nogood »

Hey Slunnie, where can you get the Rover Longfields from and what should they cost?
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Post by Slunnie »

They're now just available from Revor (Keith) at Longtracks in the US, and I think they're about $660 US including axles + postage. Revor has just posted on this forum that they're available also.

http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=99761
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

A Nissan H260 rear (biggest nissan diff) with an ARB or prolocker would be about the same strength as a salisbury with an MD locker.

Nissan front diff centre beats a rover diff by miles, but apart from that it depends what CVs you are running - lots of options to fit longfields, longtracks, cvunlimited or ashcroft (all 4340/4340m and very strong) to a rover - what about a GQ?
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Post by Tazz »

Slunnie wrote:Good question. What about Hilux centres in Rover also?
I was amazed that a hilux centre can be seen as an upgrade as they are not that strong themselves. Those rover ones really must be weak as...
Last edited by Tazz on Fri Feb 09, 2007 12:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

Tazz wrote:
Slunnie wrote:Good question. What about Hilux centres in Rover also?
I was amazed that a hilux centre can be seen as an upgrade, those rover ones really must be weak as...
Yes they are - they are actually BIGGER than a toyota 8" ring gear, but only spiral bevel, so overall they are weaker. A low pinion hilux front is probably about the same or weaker than a front rover diff (that is why everyone fits bundera or 60? series high pinion fronts to rover housings).
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Post by cloughy »

ISUZUROVER wrote:A Nissan H260 rear (biggest nissan diff) with an ARB or prolocker would be about the same strength as a salisbury with an MD locker.
Except for the piddly 24 spline axles, compared to the nissans :roll:
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

cloughy wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:A Nissan H260 rear (biggest nissan diff) with an ARB or prolocker would be about the same strength as a salisbury with an MD locker.
Except for the piddly 24 spline axles, compared to the nissans :roll:
Yes, but you are forgetting the Nissans axles are semi-floating and the sals is full floating. Having to cope with bending loads mean the axle needs to be thicker to be the same strength as a semi-floater.

You would have a hard time breaking either axle.
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Post by Reddo »

60 series high pinion - where do you get one of those?

Hilux high pinion - strong?? whaaat??????

Trying 35s in the D1 atm, with JacMac axles and lockers, and pegged Ashcroft 4.11s CW, Nissan CVs. Will see how they go. The CWP size worries me a lot though........I really don't wnat to break them cause they cost a lot and will be hard to replace :roll: .

I figure the CVs will go first.....
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Post by disco95 »

Reddo wrote:60 series high pinion - where do you get one of those?

Hilux high pinion - strong?? whaaat??????

Trying 35s in the D1 atm, with JacMac axles and lockers, and pegged Ashcroft 4.11s CW, Nissan CVs. Will see how they go. The CWP size worries me a lot though........I really don't wnat to break them cause they cost a lot and will be hard to replace :roll: .

I figure the CVs will go first.....
How hard wa it to fit Nissan CV's? Is it a DYI job? & how much better are they?
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Post by cloughy »

Reddo wrote:60 series high pinion - where do you get one of those?

Hilux high pinion - strong?? whaaat??????

Trying 35s in the D1 atm, with JacMac axles and lockers, and pegged Ashcroft 4.11s CW, Nissan CVs. Will see how they go. The CWP size worries me a lot though........I really don't wnat to break them cause they cost a lot and will be hard to replace :roll: .

I figure the CVs will go first.....
:rofl: I'd hope he meant 80 series :D
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

Reddo wrote:60 series high pinion - where do you get one of those?

Hilux high pinion - strong?? whaaat??????
I meant the toyota 8"/200mm diff. I keep losing track of what that is fitted to. Hiluxes have a low pinion front which is quite weak, but a high pinion front is stronger than a rover front.
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Post by cloughy »

ISUZUROVER wrote:
Reddo wrote:60 series high pinion - where do you get one of those?

Hilux high pinion - strong?? whaaat??????
I meant the toyota 8"/200mm diff. I keep losing track of what that is fitted to. Hiluxes have a low pinion front which is quite weak, but a high pinion front is stronger than a rover front.
No its not, its weak as piss in reverse, the high pinion that is, just stronger going forward
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Post by Reddo »

fitting Nissan CVs requires some machining, and I think GQ size is as big as you can go - I could be wrong here as I've never found out the actual size of GU CVs...and to confuse matters more, it is possible to fit a strengthening band around Rover CV (110 that is), so, the housing should be able to take up to 100mm dia CVs (std Rover is 94mm dia).

JacMac can do the work for a couple of hundred dollars - ie, remove Rover needle race fron rear of stubs and replace with a bushing to suit/support the Nissan short axle. He has done this for a few Discos here and OS and so far they are holding up (I'm hanging onto a piece of 4x4 as I say this!!)

GQ Nissan CVs (Jap built) are around 150 each and they have a much larger axles input dia than Rover's - which is where the weakness is.
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Post by cloughy »

Reddo wrote:fitting Nissan CVs requires some machining, and I think GQ size is as big as you can go - I could be wrong here as I've never found out the actual size of GU CVs...and to confuse matters more, it is possible to fit a strengthening band around Rover CV (110 that is), so, the housing should be able to take up to 100mm dia CVs (std Rover is 94mm dia).

JacMac can do the work for a couple of hundred dollars - ie, remove Rover needle race fron rear of stubs and replace with a bushing to suit/support the Nissan short axle. He has done this for a few Discos here and OS and so far they are holding up (I'm hanging onto a piece of 4x4 as I say this!!)

GQ Nissan CVs (Jap built) are around 150 each and they have a much larger axles input dia than Rover's - which is where the weakness is.
Which inner front axles do you keep quating, the 32 0r 23 spline??? cause you can just retrofit, early classic CV's to get some strength back
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

cloughy wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:
Reddo wrote:60 series high pinion - where do you get one of those?

Hilux high pinion - strong?? whaaat??????
I meant the toyota 8"/200mm diff. I keep losing track of what that is fitted to. Hiluxes have a low pinion front which is quite weak, but a high pinion front is stronger than a rover front.
No its not, its weak as piss in reverse, the high pinion that is, just stronger going forward
Sure it's weak in reverse - the point is that it is strong going forwards - where it counts. There are plenty of comp vehicles running these diffs with up to 37" wheels (e.g. beebee, and the ex haultech TT05 lockless now owned by andrew e). I would like to see how a rover diff holds up under the same conditions.
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Post by cloughy »

ISUZUROVER wrote:
cloughy wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:
Reddo wrote:60 series high pinion - where do you get one of those?

Hilux high pinion - strong?? whaaat??????
I meant the toyota 8"/200mm diff. I keep losing track of what that is fitted to. Hiluxes have a low pinion front which is quite weak, but a high pinion front is stronger than a rover front.
No its not, its weak as piss in reverse, the high pinion that is, just stronger going forward
Sure it's weak in reverse - the point is that it is strong going forwards - where it counts. There are plenty of comp vehicles running these diffs with up to 37" wheels (e.g. beebee, and the ex haultech TT05 lockless now owned by andrew e). I would like to see how a rover diff holds up under the same conditions.
I don't hump rocks so wouldn't know, all i know is lovely victorian plantations and forest and unfortunately you have to reverse in those conditions and they go BANG with 35" tyres, driven with some duress in reverse would probably see them last a very long time, but they are still weak in reverse, really weak, as in the weakness:strength ratio sucks, you gain in forward strength, but loose in bakarse gear,
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

cloughy wrote:
I don't hump rocks so wouldn't know, all i know is lovely victorian plantations and forest and unfortunately you have to reverse in those conditions and they go BANG with 35" tyres, driven with some duress in reverse would probably see them last a very long time, but they are still weak in reverse, really weak, as in the weakness:strength ratio sucks, you gain in forward strength, but loose in bakarse gear,
Ahh, so you are one of those people who lack the capacity to navigate obstacles??? Explains a lot :D :finger: :D

I can see how the terrain over there, where you have lots of mud and deep ruts, that maximum clearance and the ability to be as strong in reverse as going forwards would be an advantage.

Big difference to driving over high-traction rock.
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Post by cloughy »

ISUZUROVER wrote:
cloughy wrote:
I don't hump rocks so wouldn't know, all i know is lovely victorian plantations and forest and unfortunately you have to reverse in those conditions and they go BANG with 35" tyres, driven with some duress in reverse would probably see them last a very long time, but they are still weak in reverse, really weak, as in the weakness:strength ratio sucks, you gain in forward strength, but loose in bakarse gear,

I can see how the terrain over there, where you have lots of mud and deep ruts, that maximum clearance and the ability to be as strong in reverse as going forwards would be an advantage.

Big difference to driving over high-traction rock.
Yea 1,957,827:1 low range VS 5000rpm abuse, 2 VEEEERY different things
ISUZUROVER wrote:Ahh, so you are one of those people who lack the capacity to navigate obstacles??? Explains a lot :D :finger: :D
:oops: :D


Edit: worked better that time
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Post by Micka »

ISUZUROVER wrote:
cloughy wrote:
I don't hump rocks so wouldn't know, all i know is lovely victorian plantations and forest and unfortunately you have to reverse in those conditions and they go BANG with 35" tyres, driven with some duress in reverse would probably see them last a very long time, but they are still weak in reverse, really weak, as in the weakness:strength ratio sucks, you gain in forward strength, but loose in bakarse gear,
Ahh, so you are one of those people who lack the capacity to navigate obstacles??? Explains a lot :D :finger: :D
Now that's not very nice, Ben.

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Post by disco95 »

o.k., let's forget the comp scene for a sec. What about your average weekend warrior. I want to be able to go pretty hard, but I don't need to do the extreme stuff. Some of the tracks around here are very muddy and slippery, some are steep and rocky with good 3' steps etc.
Wouldn't strengthened Rover gear and 33's do the job?
Perhaps throw in a diff lock for good measure.
While on the subject, I know I'd rather have the front locked for traction, but I don't feel it's an absolute necessity, is there more or less chance of breakage with the front or the rear locked?
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Post by Reddo »

Yup know that you can retro fit early Rover CVs but then the short axle breaks, at least it's easy to replace, and the early axles were also weak in themselves. So it's a bit like chasing your tails really. Trying to get the best compromise between strength and pumpkin clearance etc.
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

disco95 wrote:o.k., let's forget the comp scene for a sec. What about your average weekend warrior. I want to be able to go pretty hard, but I don't need to do the extreme stuff. Some of the tracks around here are very muddy and slippery, some are steep and rocky with good 3' steps etc.
Wouldn't strengthened Rover gear and 33's do the job?
Perhaps throw in a diff lock for good measure.
While on the subject, I know I'd rather have the front locked for traction, but I don't feel it's an absolute necessity, is there more or less chance of breakage with the front or the rear locked?
Depends where you are - most of the people I know who would fall into the "average weekend warrior" category, and are double-locked on 33-35" tyres have broken a ring and pinion or two in their time. But that is in the dry and sometimes rocky QLD conditions (usually with stock gearing, not big reductions and high rpm like cloughy is suggesting).
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Post by disco95 »

I'm on the south coast of NSW.
So probably somewhere between the two.
I drive a V8 Disco. At the moment I'm running 31's with a completely stock driveline and a 2' suspension lift. I'm slowly changing things as needed.
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Post by Mark2 »

disco95 wrote:o.k., let's forget the comp scene for a sec. What about your average weekend warrior. I want to be able to go pretty hard, but I don't need to do the extreme stuff. Some of the tracks around here are very muddy and slippery, some are steep and rocky with good 3' steps etc.
Wouldn't strengthened Rover gear and 33's do the job?
Perhaps throw in a diff lock for good measure.
While on the subject, I know I'd rather have the front locked for traction, but I don't feel it's an absolute necessity, is there more or less chance of breakage with the front or the rear locked?
You're unlikely to break CV's with only the rear locked but someone has probably managed it! For me, a rear locker is all I need/want.
I've just picked up a rear rover diff with maxi drive center and diff lock/ axles for a good price and am in the process of swapping it with the Salisbury on my 110 which has/had a MUCH stronger C & P. I only run 31's and the car is as light as or lighter than a rangie or disco so am hoping it will be fine for me. I'm sure the Factor of Safety would be a lot higher with a locked Nissan rear however am confident it will be sufficient for my application.
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Post by lokka »

Sounds like alot of different opinions and some good advice in this post you guys sure know ya diffs looks like il go with a rear sals conversion and cut the bottom off for clearance and then fit a maxi in the near future as this sounds like the strongest and easyest option for me and would do wat i want to do
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Post by Tim D »

Salisbury diffs housings are hard to weld up being cast steel, do some research and correct me if i'm wrong.

Tim ;)
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