-Scott- wrote:A 7805 voltage regulator. It will drop your car voltage to around 5V, which should be adequate for a remote - if you want to get fussy, you could bump it up to 6V, but it would make it more complicated.
A three terminal (TO-220 or TO-92) package. One pin is voltage in (12V), one pin is ground, the third pin is voltage out.
If you're with me so far, Google for "7805" for which pin is which. If you need more info, post again.
Or wait for Gary to give you better help?
Scott
Since when did I become a friggin' expert
A really obvious question, but have you changed the batteries in the remote lately??????? I went from a PITA at point blank range to being able to hit the button early enough to not have to stop and wait for the gates to open (300-400m) after having similar issues.
Building it in is not really going to help with the Tx/Rx distance, and in fact may hurt the distance due to the shielding the metalwork of the car provides.
Velcro the transmitter to the back of the rearview mirror or visor (or on top of it if you have room) so you have "line of sight" to the reciever.
Yeah, sometimes the easiest approach is the most effective............
Batteries go flat in the garage/gate remote like nothing else.
You keep the remote in your pocket
Other keys/mobile phone/other crap hitting the button all the time
My batteries in the remote I left in the car lasted ~3 years before they needed changing.
George Carlin, an American Comedian said; "Think of how stupid the average person is, and realise that half of them are stupider than that".