Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user. If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
JAKE wrote:BUNDERA maaaaate just go into TOYOTA and ask for the toyota landcruiser mid wheel base 1988 model LX turbo badging...... i recon you might like these better as they come out with red or chrome lettering very (BLING BLING) bundera badging is the same
personally i woodnt bother cos if i owned your rig i wood keep it SLEEPER just to people and keep em guessin
at Jake...Yeeeeaaarrr mate every time I saddle up beside a Bundera/Middy I wonder whats under the bonnet Sleeper can I get rice wit dat.
Official member of the Babinda Jimmy James Beam III Fan Club
Darth Bobo Honker Hunter Inc, for the up gunned Poodlefaker.
I have absolutely no idea how much it would be worth. However it runs great, just clicked over 100,000 kms (timing belt needs replacing). Would come with everything from the bellhousing (including clutch and flywheel) to the fan. Ill even throw the filter/primer in , also has aircon compressor and powersteer pump.
If i were u I would take the plastic headlight surrounds off and the piece of metal that has the bonnet latch off.
Makes it a hell of a lot easier to work on.
Next time u take some pics, could you please take a general photo of the turbo set up from side on... that would be great.
Im currently getting my bellhousing etc. and flywheel made up by Dellow in Sydney, and was wondering what to do with regards to the clutch department. The largest diameter clutch I can use is 8.6", should I just go for a single plate, will it be good enough for approx 400 HP? Or should I go for a twin plate?
I don't want to use a button or puck as they are really crap to drive around daily, I dont think they would be much good for pulling my boat out of the water due to a major lack of slippage.
It's a vacuum pump, for your brake booster (and maybe your clutch - not sure).
It has an oil supply (fed from the block at engine oil pressure - this will be the smaller line) and oil drain to the block (this should be a larger line - drains at bugger all pressure), the tank looking thing is exactly that, a vacuum tank for storing vacuum (sounds weird I know), and the line going from the tank to the pump is the vacuum hose. 'B' (two switching valves) are prolly for the 4wd actuation (as mentioned) and the other would be for A/C idle up - one of the small (3-4mm ID) hoses goes to a vacuum bellows on the Injector pump to increase the idle.
Skip the petrol engine has Manifold vacume so you dont need to conect the deisel alternator.
As long as all the lines that go to the altinator are connected to the intake manifold you will be sweat. Obviously you dont conect the oil feed or return line.
Well skip the only bits that I have on my car are B and D.
On my bundera I have the same looking setup as B and it is activated by the H4WD button on the dash. Most of the 4wd on a bundera is operated by vacume and those little doverlackies are what control it. A Simple way to check would be to plug ur battery back in, turn the key to on and press the button on and off. You should be able to hear them clicking. If you can then it is the same setup as mine.
As for D Wendle is right it is the Vacume actuator for the 4wd selction.
Ruff on my bundera I had a different vacume solanoid for the air conditioner to bump up the revs. It was definatly not one of those. I know the one u are talking about though but that was mounted next to the battery and doesnt look like this..
Leave the B's on the car as they are used for actuating 4wd selection from the dash mounted button in the car, and hence leave the two vacuum lines from D plugged into B. Block up the other two vaccum lines going into B which were originally used by A. Ditch the C thingy and use my 1JZ alternator. Dont worry about aircon idle as my Haltech will control the aircon idle.
Im beginning to get really frustrated with the amount of time it is taking for my Bellhousing and flywheel to be finished, really holding things up. Maybe I will be finished by early November.
Heres a pic of my home made surge tank with Bosch 044 Motorsport pump mounted, thought you guys might be interested. Ive got it mounted next to the transfer case on the passenger side, probably not the best location for all you hardcore 4WD's due to it being pretty low (water), but is good for my purposes. My bellhousing and flywheel will finally arrive next week, so hopefully the conversion will be complete early - mid November.
Oh yeah I ripped out "C" today and crossed over the two lines on "B". All i need to do is to plug the brake booster line into the manifold. I think I saved 300g, should go heaps quicker now