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Aluminium Radiators
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Aluminium Radiators
Just after peoples views on aluminium radiators? What do think, pro's and cons.
I know harder to repair, but better heat retention.
This isn't for an outback tourer either, just to try to keep my bucket o sh@t cool.
Also has anyone used Race Radiators in Dandenong? Any good?
I know harder to repair, but better heat retention.
This isn't for an outback tourer either, just to try to keep my bucket o sh@t cool.
Also has anyone used Race Radiators in Dandenong? Any good?
Damien
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Re: Aluminium Radiators
speak with andrew on here awill4x4 in Carrum Downs... and go look at the one he made himself.. fuckin work of art...
Hope he has my Intercooler core ready to go too
Hope he has my Intercooler core ready to go too
Re: Aluminium Radiators
Race radiators made an 80mm core radiator for my rangie. It survived the rigour of the OBC fine, no stress cracks, fractures or over heating. Kurmut Ibelieve is still running a BA Ford from Race Radiators.6.5 rangie wrote:Just after peoples views on aluminium radiators? What do think, pro's and cons.
I know harder to repair, but better heat retention.
This isn't for an outback tourer either, just to try to keep my bucket o sh@t cool.
Also has anyone used Race Radiators in Dandenong? Any good?
They used to use the same core as PWR, but after Brocky's radiator let him down at Bathurst (7 years ago??), they changed to a different core supplier and have not had a problem. They build a lot of radiators for Oz Safari competitors, and the used to build radiators for Andy Cadelcotts KTM for the Dakar before he passed away.
As Bruce said, have a talk to Awill, hi work appears to be first class, and has knowledge of applications for 4Wdriving. There used to b a thread either in Nissan or general on a radiator he built for a patrol, the thread re surfaced around Dec last year.
Awill believes the application of the 80mm that I had is not the best for 4WDriving, because of the slower speeds by the time the air gets to the core closest to the block it's cooling capacity has reduced too much, a 50-60mm core would be better. I also had my alloy rad painted, this prevents the mud from sticking to the aluminium.
I pait $700 odd for my race radiator fitted.
Jason
TIGGR6 - Got the plates but not the car...
Jason, thanks for the info, thats what i wanted to hear, will contact Awill on this.
P.s, did i ever ring you back about that tyre? can't remember - iseem to be good like that (as you know)
p.p.s How are yourself and Steph going, all well i hope?
P.s, did i ever ring you back about that tyre? can't remember - iseem to be good like that (as you know)
p.p.s How are yourself and Steph going, all well i hope?
Damien
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God of Magnificant Ideas!
No more prone than what an alloy head isMark2 wrote:I've heard they can be prone to stray current corrosion but it can be avoided by proper earthing. Can anyone expand on this?
Correct collant additive will minimise corrosion.
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
Agree regarding the coolant, but have since done some searching on corrosion of aluminum radiators and it seems they can have major corrosion issues if all isnt right. They may also be more prone to salt corrosion than copper/brass radiators, particularly if left unpainted - an issue for beach drivers. Yes, copper also corrodes but there are differences in the corrosion mechanisms for each. Havent found much more info on the stray current thing except that some say the radiator should be earthed and some say it shouldnt...........V8Patrol wrote:No more prone than what an alloy head isMark2 wrote:I've heard they can be prone to stray current corrosion but it can be avoided by proper earthing. Can anyone expand on this?![]()
Correct collant additive will minimise corrosion.
Kingy
my local radiator bloke explained all this to me the other day and I've forgotten already, was something to do with electrolysis and the stray current will cause the radiator to be "eaten" away, as its the weakest link... the whole reason you have "sacrificial diodes" in Hot water services.mark2 wrote:I've heard they can be prone to stray current corrosion but it can be avoided by proper earthing. Can anyone expand on this?
there will be someone here who can better word my ramblings!
Every new car today is using aluminium radiators, have a look and see just how many earth their radiators, the quick answer is none. The manufacturers go to great lengths to make sure the mounting of the radiators is totally independent of all the metal components of the car and the ONLY thing that goes from motor to radiator is coolant.shakes wrote:my local radiator bloke explained all this to me the other day and I've forgotten already, was something to do with electrolysis and the stray current will cause the radiator to be "eaten" away, as its the weakest link... the whole reason you have "sacrificial diodes" in Hot water services.mark2 wrote:I've heard they can be prone to stray current corrosion but it can be avoided by proper earthing. Can anyone expand on this?
there will be someone here who can better word my ramblings!
As an example, I built a custom radiator for the guy next door at work for his 460 cube F100, he fitted it and we did all the right things, ran water only for a couple of days then coolant and tested for stray current and found he had a problem. He tried different approaches on everything electrical in the car and brought it down a little but it was still too high. He put an earth strap on and it made no difference at all. He had mounted the rad the same as his previous brass/copper one with bolts through the mounts so I suggested he use rubber grommets on all the mounts so there was no earthing anywhere on the radiator and the problem was fixed.
So DON'T earth your radiator, car manufacturers have a pretty good idea on what works.
Regards Andrew.
We are Tig welders, gravity doesn't worry us.
[img]http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/smilies/weld.gif[/img]
[img]http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/smilies/weld.gif[/img]
Typical electrician... never calls back6.5 rangie wrote:Jason, thanks for the info, thats what i wanted to hear, will contact Awill on this.
P.s, did i ever ring you back about that tyre? can't remember - iseem to be good like that (as you know)
p.p.s How are yourself and Steph going, all well i hope?
All is well and looking good.
Jason
TIGGR6 - Got the plates but not the car...
I used race rads to make my radiator.
lasted 6 SIX months. wasnt electrolisus. (sp)
now use desert race coolers preston area.
MIchael.
lasted 6 SIX months. wasnt electrolisus. (sp)
now use desert race coolers preston area.
MIchael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
i was waiting for you to pipe in Michael, seem to recall you having some sort of trouble, what went wrong.I used race rads to make my radiator.
lasted 6 SIX months. wasnt electrolisus. (sp)
now use desert race coolers preston area.
MIchael.
Your Aussie Desert one, is it Aluminium?
Gotta remember i need a big radiater for my engine to stay cool, everyone is saying go aluminium.
Damien
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i have an aussie desert one and it works no better than my old cheapo adrad core. it's not alloy though. it's 4 core triple pass. It does seem to be built alot stronger though.6.5 rangie wrote:i was waiting for you to pipe in Michael, seem to recall you having some sort of trouble, what went wrong.I used race rads to make my radiator.
lasted 6 SIX months. wasnt electrolisus. (sp)
now use desert race coolers preston area.
MIchael.
Your Aussie Desert one, is it Aluminium?
Gotta remember i need a big radiater for my engine to stay cool, everyone is saying go aluminium.
aluminium is the go. Mine cracked or corroded around the cores near the engine inlet.6.5 rangie wrote:i was waiting for you to pipe in Michael, seem to recall you having some sort of trouble, what went wrong.I used race rads to make my radiator.
lasted 6 SIX months. wasnt electrolisus. (sp)
now use desert race coolers preston area.
MIchael.
Your Aussie Desert one, is it Aluminium?
Gotta remember i need a big radiater for my engine to stay cool, everyone is saying go aluminium.
Race rad could not come up with a good reason. asto why.
now has copper/brass ally was better IMO but as no one wanted fix replace alloy one I went to desset.
Regards Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
that was my opinion.6.5 rangie wrote:Michael, may'be you had a dud coreThey used to use the same core as PWR, but after Brocky's radiator let him down at Bathurst (7 years ago??), they changed to a different core supplier and have not had a problem
but Rod didnt want to know about it.
so I never recomend them to anyone.
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
Aussie desert cooler in Preston are making an aluminium radiator to suit the Surf. $750. Website below.
http://www.aussiedesertcooler.com.au/
Cheers,
Chris.
http://www.aussiedesertcooler.com.au/
Cheers,
Chris.
94 Surf ssr-x Ltd 3.0td
3 years. 3 states. Not movin anymore
3 years. 3 states. Not movin anymore
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