Salisbury housings (cast Iron AFAIK) weld very easily with preheat and appropriate welding materials (cast iron rods or a MIG).Tim D wrote:Salisbury diffs housings are hard to weld up being cast steel, do some research and correct me if i'm wrong.
Tim
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
MAXI DIFFS N AXLES OR NISSAN WHICH IS STRONGER??
Moderator: Micka
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
gre, pre heat is very important otherwise it will crack due to shrinkage. You need to heat the weld area cherry red and extend the heat out a rerasonable distances from the weld area. Use low hydrogen rods, cast craft or something like that (TXP will work too), and cool after slowly eg., in sand. Have welded cast many times without problem. The automotive cast iron/steel are easy compared to other types...MIG works really well too with the right wire.
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
What was this post about?? Maxi's v Nissan. Nissan with diff locks or standard will win every time unfortunately. I own 2 rovers, blown 6 diffs in last 6 months. Love the articulation of a rover v nissan but the facts are the rover is weak as shit v nissan. I would not recommend that anyone buy a rover from my experience unless they got deep pockets. C'mon guys, ego's, sentimental values, looks, comfort, etc, aside! nissan is and always will be stronger for those of us who have a heavy right foot!!
BLACKBURN 4X4 RACING
http://www.blackburn4x4.com/
http://stores.ebay.com.au/4X4-BLACKBURN
Nissan Spare Parts Direct
Ph. 03 9877 2755
http://www.blackburn4x4.com/
http://stores.ebay.com.au/4X4-BLACKBURN
Nissan Spare Parts Direct
Ph. 03 9877 2755
Blah Blah Blah Blah, Nissan's suckBJ wrote:What was this post about?? Maxi's v Nissan. Nissan with diff locks or standard will win every time unfortunately. I own 2 rovers, blown 6 diffs in last 6 months. Love the articulation of a rover v nissan but the facts are the rover is weak as shit v nissan. I would not recommend that anyone buy a rover from my experience unless they got deep pockets. C'mon guys, ego's, sentimental values, looks, comfort, etc, aside! nissan is and always will be stronger for those of us who have a heavy right foot!!
Even if you are right
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
I prefer maxi's, had my rear one 10 years and the front about 2 1/2 and haven't had any issues nor broken anything since. Primarily run 31's and 32's though, til I put 33's on 6 months ago (funny, I always said I wouldn't fit 33's in the past. Contradicted myself once again ) .
Yeah, Nissan gear is stronger but I would detest putting pootrol shit on my Rangie but that's me
Trav
Yeah, Nissan gear is stronger but I would detest putting pootrol shit on my Rangie but that's me
Trav
Land Rover- The Collingwood of 4WD's!!!!
Would it be possible to fit complete 60 series 'yota diff housings and axles if you removed suspension mounts and welded rangie suspension mounts onto them?
The reason I ask is that the 60 series diffs are both offset like the rover units......I understand they have a bigger pumpkin and would lose ground clearance.....but could it be done relatively cheaply and would the upgrade be worth it?
The reason I ask is that the 60 series diffs are both offset like the rover units......I understand they have a bigger pumpkin and would lose ground clearance.....but could it be done relatively cheaply and would the upgrade be worth it?
82 Rangie with lots of bits for comps
98 GU patrol with lots of bits for touring
98 GU patrol with lots of bits for touring
There are the purists.
I've got LC60 axles and PAS under my old Landy just to be sure. To be honest, I'd rather have non-rover parts and still be driving then Rover parts and be broken. The only difference between running a full maxi setup for 35's and a non-rover axle, is the axle tube.
I've got LC60 axles and PAS under my old Landy just to be sure. To be honest, I'd rather have non-rover parts and still be driving then Rover parts and be broken. The only difference between running a full maxi setup for 35's and a non-rover axle, is the axle tube.
Cheers
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
If you have to ask, NoMerv wrote:Would it be possible to fit complete 60 series 'yota diff housings and axles if you removed suspension mounts and welded rangie suspension mounts onto them?
The reason I ask is that the 60 series diffs are both offset like the rover units......I understand they have a bigger pumpkin and would lose ground clearance.....but could it be done relatively cheaply and would the upgrade be worth it?
If you are able to, do it
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
i dissagree. i'd have a gu front end before i have a GQ.Maggot4x4 wrote:IMHO GQ front diff and 80 series rear is the best way to go.
Will you guys shut up whining about diffs and buy mine. Dana 60 open knuckle front, high pinion, disc brakes 4.1 ratio, And a ford sterling rear, for less than the price of 2 new maxis (3k). you will never have to worry about braking stuff again.
Plus the added bonus of having No jap shit under your rig.
SPAMandrew e wrote:i dissagree. i'd have a gu front end before i have a GQ.Maggot4x4 wrote:IMHO GQ front diff and 80 series rear is the best way to go.
Will you guys shut up whining about diffs and buy mine. Dana 60 open knuckle front, high pinion, disc brakes 4.1 ratio, And a ford sterling rear, for less than the price of 2 new maxis (3k). you will never have to worry about braking stuff again.
Plus the added bonus of having No jap shit under your rig.
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
Not true for a salisbury - the diff carrier remains stock (apart from being machined so that it can mate with the locking dog).Slunnie wrote: The only difference between running a full maxi setup for 35's and a non-rover axle, is the axle tube.
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
I think he's referring to the fact you can run any centre you wish, by putting on the rover axle tubesISUZUROVER wrote:Not true for a salisbury - the diff carrier remains stock (apart from being machined so that it can mate with the locking dog).Slunnie wrote: The only difference between running a full maxi setup for 35's and a non-rover axle, is the axle tube.
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
It only broke because I bent a steering stop so had WAY to much lockmangie wrote:Who wants to see a picture of Maggot with a phucked Nissan C.V on Ellis track??
Yeah I would too but they are lots more $$$andrew e wrote:
i dissagree. i'd have a gu front end before i have a GQ.
Grow UpReddo wrote:Begezus, get over the Nissan/yota transplants!!!!!
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest