Fixing the viscous coupling on a 4.2 - DIDN'T WORK !

[bogged]

D: I'm between a rock and a hard place. A car I can't afford to fix, and a car I can't afford to get rid of.

Can you afford to keep it? ....

Ordinarily, yes I can afford to keep it, I'm on over $70K a year.
However, in the last year:
* my wife's transmission blew up $4K
* her aircon died $400
* My wife let her insurance lapse, and then had her first ever, in over 20 years of driving, at fault accident when she rear ended a woman - $4K
* Her own car had to be repaired - $3K
* The TV blew up permanently
* The Stereo followed not long afterwards
* The house aircon died
* The kids had to have laptops for school.
* And the real capper to it all, my wife left her job to go to two days a week to look after a Mother with Cancer.
This year has been an absolute MONGREL of a year - the Queen's anus horribilis has nothing on the year I've just had.

I've had worse than that, with a divorce, lawyers, and all similar bills and im on less than you.. I bought a GU...

And no it's not the time in my life to get a Commonwhore, or any other car, as my only mechanism for winding down from stresses is to get out bush, camping with my kids etc is my main "time-out" to clear my head, and even that has been taken from me.

so your not using the 4wd at the moment, so you wouldnt miss it.. Buy a normal car for 6-12 mths till this nasty year is over, and then start with something else.
You would be suprised how many people go away with their kids in a 2wd and have great time.

YMMB.

[blkmav]

But this, it's cheaper than getting another new head etc.
http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=100411

[bogged]

But this, it's cheaper than getting another new head etc.
http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=100411

best advice yet.

[jessie928]

you should not have any heating (catch fire stuff) problems with disconnecting the water pipes to the turbo.

if you are worried, check the plate on your turbo to see what the brand and model is, and then google it, but 99.999% you shoudl be ok.

JEs

[BIG GQ]

you have a water cooled turbo????
you dont know what the EGT's are
the truck is heating on long hill climbs

and you are looking at the fan being different from a petrol and diesel???

mate, stop your fart assing around,

you need to piss of the water cooled turbo or unplug it.
then you need to get a EGT guage and get your injector pump looked at.

dont look anywhere else, herein lies your problem.

JEs

Have to agree with Jessie.

Get a pyro installed so you know your EGT's. If its excessive, then get the fuel pump looked at and tune it to EGT's.

Disconnecting the water-cooled turbo and stroping it up hills where it previously overheated will allow you to eliminate or confirm another possible source of the problem. I've been running a water-cooled turbo without the water-cooling for almost 3yrs without any problems.

jessie and GQ TROL

My GQ heats up when sitting on full boost (12psi ATM) for any period of time. It is a factory GU setup which is oil and water type and has top mount intercooler with GU scoop, 3" dump pipe and straight through mandrel system and the pump has had aneroid fitted.

My question is that I was of the beleif that the oil was for lubrication and the coolant was for cooling the bearings, etc and without the water running through it the thing would get slower and slower as the turbo heated up??

GQ TROL what turbo are you running that you are not running the water lines on? I don't think I'll be removing tha water lines from mine as mine is not real bad but your comments got me thinking.

[raptorthumper]

Things done to date:

* Cooling system flush
* New 4 core aussie desert cooler radiator.
* New Thermostat (twice) now a genuine Nissan 76.5 degree one.
* Fuel flow rates checked (but not the full $1200 fuel service).
* New top hose.
* New radiator cap installed into top hose (cap on radiator too low down)
* New unkinkable reinforced bottom hose.
* Brand new head and obviously gasket (gasket twice by same company under warranty) including new pistons, rings, etc, after overheat seized two pistons
* Repositioned a number of items including removing a tiny little thermofan that was infront of driver's side, that seemed to be blocking more than it was helping, to clear more airflow through front.
* Serviced the viscous coupling - apparently succesfully as it's much much stiffer
* Positioned twin scoops over turbo and turbo overpipe, and placed heat shielding between overpipe and the hot parts such as exhaust manifold and the top of engine.

Just asking the obvious. Have you replaced the water pump.? It's probably rusted the impeller away.

Grant.

[its aford not a nissan]

jessie and GQ TROL

My GQ heats up when sitting on full boost (12psi ATM) for any period of time. It is a factory GU setup which is oil and water type and has top mount intercooler with GU scoop, 3" dump pipe and straight through mandrel system and the pump has had aneroid fitted.

My question is that I was of the beleif that the oil was for lubrication and the coolant was for cooling the bearings, etc and without the water running through it the thing would get slower and slower as the turbo heated up??

GQ TROL what turbo are you running that you are not running the water lines on? I don't think I'll be removing tha water lines from mine as mine is not real bad but your comments got me thinking.

i was told my info from turbo glide and they say diesels exaust isnt hot enough to warrent watercooling also the new 4.2 td dont have water cooling on there turbos

[BIG GQ]

Yeah I'm aware that alot of turbo's don't have it at all but they are also designed differently.

[jessie928]

you have a water cooled turbo????
you dont know what the EGT's are
the truck is heating on long hill climbs

and you are looking at the fan being different from a petrol and diesel???

mate, stop your fart assing around,

you need to piss of the water cooled turbo or unplug it.
then you need to get a EGT guage and get your injector pump looked at.

dont look anywhere else, herein lies your problem.

JEs

Have to agree with Jessie.

Get a pyro installed so you know your EGT's. If its excessive, then get the fuel pump looked at and tune it to EGT's.

Disconnecting the water-cooled turbo and stroping it up hills where it previously overheated will allow you to eliminate or confirm another possible source of the problem. I've been running a water-cooled turbo without the water-cooling for almost 3yrs without any problems.

jessie and GQ TROL

My GQ heats up when sitting on full boost (12psi ATM) for any period of time. It is a factory GU setup which is oil and water type and has top mount intercooler with GU scoop, 3" dump pipe and straight through mandrel system and the pump has had aneroid fitted.

My question is that I was of the beleif that the oil was for lubrication and the coolant was for cooling the bearings, etc and without the water running through it the thing would get slower and slower as the turbo heated up??

GQ TROL what turbo are you running that you are not running the water lines on? I don't think I'll be removing tha water lines from mine as mine is not real bad but your comments got me thinking.

water is for cooling, ( so is teh oil but doubles up as a lubricant) but at high EGT's , its heating the engine coolant more than it is cooling the turbo .

you have to keep EGT's under control to keep engine temp down. IF you must run high EGT's and your pedantic about keeping the water cooling on the turbo then you need a more efficient cooling system.

a more efficient cooling system for the truck woul be as follows.

1. alloy radiator
2. oil cooler
3. oil cooler for the turbo's water outlet. ( what i mean here is you need a beefy oil cooler so you can run water in it. Porsche oil coolers are your friend. 964 front mount cooler comes complete with fan ( you can also use this same cooler setup for your oil cooler on your engine, these are big bore coolers)


i personally in your case would check the EGT's and see if they are too excessive, if you HAVE to have them where they are, then start with item 3, then item 2, then item 1. after all this, you will have basically an indestructable cooling system.

as a side note, CERAMIC COATING is your friend people. IF you are doing all this stuff to your engines and you arnt HPCing your bits, you are crazy, small money, BIG benefits!

Jes

[badger]

all of the gq's i know of heat up as you explain. but they also run rich fuel mixtures and some boost.
2 water cooled 2 not all heat up under same treatment but the water cooled ones heat the engine up alot faster. mine is water cooled.

basically you need to get a pyro and drive to it. and accpt the fact that your driving a gq not a sports car. dont hold it flat for long climbs etc.

to me it sounds like it might be worth you taking it for a dyno tune and tuning to egt's............ even if it dont fix the probs atleast you know that you wont melt a piston etc on a brand new bottom end you cant afford to replace again
200 bucs well spent either way

[GQ TROL]

BIG GQ,
As Jessie has said, we also found that the water-cooled turbo would "super-heat" the engine coolant when made to work hard, so did away with them on the race truck and my own truck. It worked for us, but may not be everyone else's cup of tea.

I use a CT26 turbo from a Celica GT-4. Changed the ceramic exhaust wheel to steel one and high-flowed the compressor side. To maintain the bearings in good condition I always let it cool down before turning off, and use good quality oil with changes at 5,000kms to prevent excessive coking. Injection pump has 12mm plunger, and modified aneroid etc

Race truck uses Garrett T04, bigger compressor side, no water-cooling etc. Fuel pump also has 12mm plunger, modified aneroid etc.

HTH.

[Ezookiel]

Thanks people,
great suggestions again,
and yes, I forgot to add that we have a new waterpump as well.
I'll try to get around to the water on the turbo, even as an experiment to eliminate it from the possible causes, perhaps even this weekend.
EGT has been high on the list for a while, I just need to find where and how to get one fitted in Canberra.

[Jimbo]

Keep this post going. If people dont want to read it then they dont have to open it up!!

[badger]

i agree Jimbo.
even if Ezookiel was making this whole thing up wich i highly doubt it has been an awesome resource for ideas on how to make out own trucks run a lil cooler.

best of luck to you zook

[Pissboy]

[* New top hose.
* New radiator cap installed into top hose (cap on radiator too low down)

Just a thought, after reading your post on everything you have changed / modfied from standard, has a bleed point been installed so any air locks can escape whilst filling coolant system? Is the radiator lower than top of the engine head, this could cause an air lock?

PS My GQ n/a diesel patrol aslo overheats, have owned since new, and have only had probs since pump was overhauled and body lift fitted (imho the car is now not standard).

[ozy1]

[* New top hose.
* New radiator cap installed into top hose (cap on radiator too low down)

Just a thought, after reading your post on everything you have changed / modfied from standard, has a bleed point been installed so any air locks can escape whilst filling coolant system? Is the radiator lower than top of the engine head, this could cause an air lock?

PS My GQ n/a diesel patrol aslo overheats, have owned since new, and have only had probs since pump was overhauled and body lift fitted (imho the car is now not standard).

knew a bloke that had dramas with overheating once body lift was fitted, he tried evrything, in the end, he lowered the radiator, and refitted the bottom part of the cowling, once this was done it imediatly fixed the over heating issue,

[Vulcanised]

what strikes me odd is the fact that it doesn't heat up in slow traffic...... it doesn't heat up at highway speeds, only heats up while it's under load at full boost. I wonder if maybe the fuel is ok, but the pump timing is out.....

[bogged]

knew a bloke that had dramas with overheating once body lift was fitted, he tried evrything, in the end, he lowered the radiator, and refitted the bottom part of the cowling, once this was done it imediatly fixed the over heating issue,

x2

[GQ Bear]

Sorry if i've missed something i skimmed through posts, after all it's 3 pgs long

With all the dramas and money spent on trying to stop your car overheating i can't beleive you'd even consider rooting around with your old viscous coupling. Throw the bastard to buggery and buy a new one. I got one for my petrol last year, cost about $120 i think from Don Kyatt's in Moorabbin. Genuine item too. Deisel ones were cheaper.

If you've flushed or even better re-cored radiator, changed rad cap, replaced hoses, replaced water pump and replaced viscous coupling, there's no external leaks and it's still getting hot then i'd say for sure that your head gasket's blown.

Mine was performing the same, only got hot on really hot days with a/c running and when i put it under load in low range 4wdriving up steep hills, etc. Changed head gasket and she runs like a dream. There was no telltale signs either - no really noticable bubbles in radiator, no water in oil. Once the head was off though you could see where the gasket had blown it's seal at no.6 cylinder (common problem)

[of4x4]

I got one for my petrol last year, cost about $120 i think from Don Kyatt's in Moorabbin. Genuine item too. Deisel ones were cheaper.

Unfortunately you're wrong with the diesel one being cheaper. I went there after your post some months ago, and was charged $230 for one. I was in the sh!t and had no option but to pay. It was genuine though.

[MQPatrol]

A year later i am still running the same secondhand VL viscous clutch that bolted straight up to the TD42, haven't overheated.

[jessie928]

A year later i am still running the same secondhand VL viscous clutch that bolted straight up to the TD42, haven't overheated.

they all work mate, as long as they bolt up.

JEs

[bogged]

I got one for my petrol last year, cost about $120 i think from Don Kyatt's in Moorabbin. Genuine item too. Deisel ones were cheaper.

Unfortunately you're wrong with the diesel one being cheaper. I went there after your post some months ago, and was charged $230 for one. I was in the sh!t and had no option but to pay. It was genuine though.

Johnno got one today $330ish... genurine

[Rhysta]

Why is is everyone gettin new deisel viscous hubs, when they are a completely servicable item? That cost like $40 bucks from a wreckers

[bogged]

Why is is everyone gettin new deisel viscous hubs, when they are a completely servicable item? That cost like $40 bucks from a wreckers

have you read the thread? the answers are there..

[lexi]

As usual Nissan prices for the hub are ott. There are scores of hubs available for american trucks at a third of the price.........just getting one in your hand that will fit.

Lada Nivas.....built by peasants and driven by failed Capitalists

Alex

[Jimbo]

Rhysta wrote:
Why is is everyone gettin new deisel viscous hubs, when they are a completely servicable item? That cost like $40 bucks from a wreckers
have you read the thread? the answers are there..

I think the thread just talks about it not fixing hios specific problem....doesnt mean that getting one from the wrecker and then servicing it isn't a good idea......Better than $330