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Noticed an oily residue all over the tyre and wheel well, thought, oh bugger, dead brake cylinder.... pulled the wheel and brake cover off and oh joy, brake cylinder is fine, and there's diff oil all over the place.
Now normally I would think, ok, dead axle seal, not soo bad..... but there's been a horrible grinding noise whilst driving coming from that corner (which i thought was the cylinder... which I now know is fine). The noise is like a womp womp womp sorta grinding sound, that gets faster as I drive faster.... what the hell can it be? If it was the axle, would I still be able to drive? (its an open diff after all) Could the seal be making such a bad noise? I can feel the vibrations slightly through the floor pan
Nah checked springs n bolts, no bends or anything.
One other thing i forgot to mention, is that side of the axle, and the drum brake cover/assembly right up to just after where the axle housing starts, was alot hotter than the other side. Like, getting a little close to burning, but could still hold it. So there must be something making friction in there
I've had both rear wheel bearings go in a gq patrol. No play was noticable, just the noise, and 'breaking the seal' in regards to the oil on one of them
Kool thanks for the replies, sorry for doubting u Layto
Just spoke to a mate with a Rocky Ute, he found out 2day he has the EXACT same problem, on the same side freaky And apparently the rears are different to the fronts (bearings) in that when they go they dont always allow play.
RockyF70 wrote:Kool thanks for the replies, sorry for doubting u Layto
Just spoke to a mate with a Rocky Ute, he found out 2day he has the EXACT same problem, on the same side freaky And apparently the rears are different to the fronts (bearings) in that when they go they dont always allow play.
No wuckers champ. The rear is a differnt design, and will not allow slop like the front will. It may not have collapsed, but it will be rooted anyway. If you do it yourself you will understand how i mean. Front and rear wheel bearings can get noisey and still not have collapsed. To diagnose wheel bearings getting noisey you drive along with the noise audible and swerve left to right (do this on a clear road, and gently ). Listen for if the noise gets louder. As you swerve it loads up the bearings. So if it gets noisier turning left, then the right side bearings are noisey etc. Front to rear you will have to rely on your ears a bit here
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Yeah i'm probably gunna 'try' and do it myself. Its either wait till monday for the mech, or DIY and hope i dont stuff it up, and if i do, wait till monday for the mech
RockyF70 wrote:Yeah i'm probably gunna 'try' and do it myself. Its either wait till monday for the mech, or DIY and hope i dont stuff it up, and if i do, wait till monday for the mech
You might need a press to remove the bearings. Rocky is semi floating rear, so relies on the bearing to support some of the cars weight. Most of these are interference fit. Unlike a full floater, which is like changing a front wheel bearing.
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Lift the offending end of the axle up off the ground, and give the wheel a shake up and down, you will find the slop easily enough.
Theres a step by step how to replace the rears in the Daihatsu bible. Just a shame its got no pics anymore.
Pretty easy job, about 2 hrs. Been there, done that many times.
If you need advice, give me a yell.
Forget the press for removal, what you need is an angle grinder and hammer and cold chisel. The retainer ring is whats interference fitted. This needs to be removed first. You will need the press for reinstallation, or alternatively a camping stove and a length of pipe that fits neatly over the axle.