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SWB Maverick Suspension/Tyre suggestions plz
SWB Maverick Suspension/Tyre suggestions plz
i have a SWB maverick.
Was speaking to a old friend today and he got a 6" lift or something on his LWB gq patrol and he said that only thing i needed was castor plates..
I thought it was a little werid personally but anway .. He said that kit he got was $850 for 4 shocks/springs.. or something like that bit to understand what he said exactly...
I'm wanting to lift my SWB and not wanting to cut the guards and run 33's.. or whatever i can without scrubing..
I was thinking 2" spring lift and 2" body lift with new shocks.. or i could do a 4" spring lift instead..
There is a guy on OL selling 2" spring lift and shocks and gearbox/crossmember spacers (old man emu) not sure if there a good brand or not for $300..
With body lift i was told the car can be noisey a hell inside is that true or not? Do SWB GQ's get vibrations and shit becuase i don't want that either really..
Tyres after a 33" if it will fit without chop i would go bigger but i don't wanna chop..
I would be doing beach driving/ Land Crusier Park tracks and %85 road driving or more as the car would be used as a dail driver to work and back 100K's a day on a highway..
What tyre would u suggest maybe?
Thanks for ya help i have no idea about suspension and tyres and stuff feel free to throw suggestions around..
Also in the pic below i was told that has 2" spring and 2" body with 33's.. not 100% sure I love the look of that as it has good travel etc..
Rick.
Was speaking to a old friend today and he got a 6" lift or something on his LWB gq patrol and he said that only thing i needed was castor plates..
I thought it was a little werid personally but anway .. He said that kit he got was $850 for 4 shocks/springs.. or something like that bit to understand what he said exactly...
I'm wanting to lift my SWB and not wanting to cut the guards and run 33's.. or whatever i can without scrubing..
I was thinking 2" spring lift and 2" body lift with new shocks.. or i could do a 4" spring lift instead..
There is a guy on OL selling 2" spring lift and shocks and gearbox/crossmember spacers (old man emu) not sure if there a good brand or not for $300..
With body lift i was told the car can be noisey a hell inside is that true or not? Do SWB GQ's get vibrations and shit becuase i don't want that either really..
Tyres after a 33" if it will fit without chop i would go bigger but i don't wanna chop..
I would be doing beach driving/ Land Crusier Park tracks and %85 road driving or more as the car would be used as a dail driver to work and back 100K's a day on a highway..
What tyre would u suggest maybe?
Thanks for ya help i have no idea about suspension and tyres and stuff feel free to throw suggestions around..
Also in the pic below i was told that has 2" spring and 2" body with 33's.. not 100% sure I love the look of that as it has good travel etc..
Rick.
search is your friend.
Ok 2" spring and body will clear 33's easily.
anoy more than a 2" spring on a shorty and you need a lot of things. castor, double cardin drive shaft, and other things
no one can say what shortie will get vibes and what wont. mine gets them alot not very violent a mates gets them sometimes and others get none when lifing.
mine is 2+2 and 33 procomps and i have scruding issues
Ok 2" spring and body will clear 33's easily.
anoy more than a 2" spring on a shorty and you need a lot of things. castor, double cardin drive shaft, and other things
no one can say what shortie will get vibes and what wont. mine gets them alot not very violent a mates gets them sometimes and others get none when lifing.
mine is 2+2 and 33 procomps and i have scruding issues
It's simple: questions are inherently good. Your questions... not so much
2003 GUIII turbo intercooled 4.2 DX
2003 GUIII turbo intercooled 4.2 DX
Thanks heaps guys for ya help!
Yeah i don't really want to go over 2" sus as all the shit you have to buy i mean would be worth it if i was going serious but i'm just a weekend warrior with a few friends going down a few tracks etc..
I was told a while back something that i still can't get out of my head becuase it seemed so true.. he said : Lifting ur car is so that ur body doesn't hit shit and to make room for bigger tyres.. he also said the least amount of lift is better for SWB becuase u don't want the center point of gravity to high .. He said the reason for bigger tyres is so you have more clearence to go over things.. it made alot of sense at the time when i had no idea and still not the sharpest nail in the shed about suspension..
To make it alot simplyier so i don't confuse myself and u but talking crap
I'm after:
To fit 33's under my wheel archs as is no cutting or trimming or anything.
I don't want to larger lift to make the 33's look like smallcar tyres in the wheel arch (if that made sense)
I need tyres that won't pi$$ me off driving to work everyday on the highway at 120 and doesn't howl like crazy and shake the fark out of me.
My end result i really want a tough looking rig that's capable of going up to LCMP without having to take every easy track ..
I already have a factory diff lock in the back.
With the tyres i have no idea but i'm after something that looks and does the job well and good for LCMP beach driving and good on the road as i do a fair few KMS each week..
Thanks alot for ya help!
What brand of stuff should i buy? King springs? and what shocks? what else do i need? Were is the cheapest place to get this?
Thanks heaps i have no idea as my first car/4wd.
Rick.
Yeah i don't really want to go over 2" sus as all the shit you have to buy i mean would be worth it if i was going serious but i'm just a weekend warrior with a few friends going down a few tracks etc..
I was told a while back something that i still can't get out of my head becuase it seemed so true.. he said : Lifting ur car is so that ur body doesn't hit shit and to make room for bigger tyres.. he also said the least amount of lift is better for SWB becuase u don't want the center point of gravity to high .. He said the reason for bigger tyres is so you have more clearence to go over things.. it made alot of sense at the time when i had no idea and still not the sharpest nail in the shed about suspension..
To make it alot simplyier so i don't confuse myself and u but talking crap
I'm after:
To fit 33's under my wheel archs as is no cutting or trimming or anything.
I don't want to larger lift to make the 33's look like smallcar tyres in the wheel arch (if that made sense)
I need tyres that won't pi$$ me off driving to work everyday on the highway at 120 and doesn't howl like crazy and shake the fark out of me.
My end result i really want a tough looking rig that's capable of going up to LCMP without having to take every easy track ..
I already have a factory diff lock in the back.
With the tyres i have no idea but i'm after something that looks and does the job well and good for LCMP beach driving and good on the road as i do a fair few KMS each week..
Thanks alot for ya help!
What brand of stuff should i buy? King springs? and what shocks? what else do i need? Were is the cheapest place to get this?
Thanks heaps i have no idea as my first car/4wd.
Rick.
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
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Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
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Off topic a bit, but your mate seriously needs to look at his 6 inch lift. Adjustable panhard rods and extended sway bar links at least (sawbays on road anyway )
4 inch lift, with a bit of trimming and maybe space the front arms out sounds like the go, or 2 inch lift and 2 inch BL.
Layto....
4 inch lift, with a bit of trimming and maybe space the front arms out sounds like the go, or 2 inch lift and 2 inch BL.
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Best results with minimal expense would be 3" dobinson hd swb springs 2" body 15mm cross member spacers 13mm front arm spacers caster bushes drop rear bump stops 50mm may need longer slave cylinder flexable line lengthen top rear trail arms by 20mm
if you want major flex weld 4" nominal bore pipe 100mm long onto uderside of top rear spring mount n run clamp plate on diff side of spring with bump stop dropped you can run 790mm rear shocks without loosing your springs. running 33"s n difflocks you will go where ever you want
with 3" lift you can put rear flexy brake line from rear diff to front n get one made longer for rear
if you do a body lift make sure you roll the rear inner gaurd inward from under seat belt bolt hole to the rear or you will slice the tyre side wall
if you want major flex weld 4" nominal bore pipe 100mm long onto uderside of top rear spring mount n run clamp plate on diff side of spring with bump stop dropped you can run 790mm rear shocks without loosing your springs. running 33"s n difflocks you will go where ever you want
with 3" lift you can put rear flexy brake line from rear diff to front n get one made longer for rear
if you do a body lift make sure you roll the rear inner gaurd inward from under seat belt bolt hole to the rear or you will slice the tyre side wall
That all made a bit of sense not alot as i'm not a suspension person but it did sound like what i wantnastytroll wrote:Best results with minimal expense would be 3" dobinson hd swb springs 2" body 15mm cross member spacers 13mm front arm spacers caster bushes drop rear bump stops 50mm may need longer slave cylinder flexable line lengthen top rear trail arms by 20mm
if you want major flex weld 4" nominal bore pipe 100mm long onto uderside of top rear spring mount n run clamp plate on diff side of spring with bump stop dropped you can run 790mm rear shocks without loosing your springs. running 33"s n difflocks you will go where ever you want
with 3" lift you can put rear flexy brake line from rear diff to front n get one made longer for rear
if you do a body lift make sure you roll the rear inner gaurd inward from under seat belt bolt hole to the rear or you will slice the tyre side wall
What price do you think i would be looking at for that above ... i got to buy tyres as well..
Also with that above will that cause vibration and loud un wanted noises i don't want LOL? As daily driver all week i don't want it to feel like a vibratior
Thanks alot Nastytrol great help mate!!
Cheers
Rick.
In regards to the vibrations its all a bit of a lottery. I have had my shorty for 2 or so years with a 5" spring lift and 35's and I have gotten very minimal, if any vibrations at all. Ive got 3rds rear lower control arms, tough dog adjustable panhard rods, gearbox spacers and castor correction bushes on the front and it all works seemingly well. An old boss of minr had a 2 inch lift and 32's and hiswas absolutely shocking so yeah, buy a ticket and hope you win
I farkin hope so .. hmmDoggy wrote:In regards to the vibrations its all a bit of a lottery. I have had my shorty for 2 or so years with a 5" spring lift and 35's and I have gotten very minimal, if any vibrations at all. Ive got 3rds rear lower control arms, tough dog adjustable panhard rods, gearbox spacers and castor correction bushes on the front and it all works seemingly well. An old boss of minr had a 2 inch lift and 32's and hiswas absolutely shocking so yeah, buy a ticket and hope you win
I really don't want vibrations..
X2 nastytroll,Mulisha wrote:That all made a bit of sense not alot as i'm not a suspension person but it did sound like what i wantnastytroll wrote:Best results with minimal expense would be 3" dobinson hd swb springs 2" body 15mm cross member spacers 13mm front arm spacers caster bushes drop rear bump stops 50mm may need longer slave cylinder flexable line lengthen top rear trail arms by 20mm
if you want major flex weld 4" nominal bore pipe 100mm long onto uderside of top rear spring mount n run clamp plate on diff side of spring with bump stop dropped you can run 790mm rear shocks without loosing your springs. running 33"s n difflocks you will go where ever you want
with 3" lift you can put rear flexy brake line from rear diff to front n get one made longer for rear
if you do a body lift make sure you roll the rear inner gaurd inward from under seat belt bolt hole to the rear or you will slice the tyre side wall
What price do you think i would be looking at for that above ... i got to buy tyres as well..
Also with that above will that cause vibration and loud un wanted noises i don't want LOL? As daily driver all week i don't want it to feel like a vibratior
Thanks alot Nastytrol great help mate!!
Cheers
Rick.
I have done the Dobinsons thing to my mates shorty ( 3 inch lift) with the adj panhards and Big 'O' drop arms.
For the suspension ring up Marty at Dobinsons Sydney Ph 02 4647 8295 and tell him Steve and 'LAWNMOWER' from sth oz sent ya, he will explain to you what to do and how best to achive the goals you are after.
We did not do the transfer spacers straight away as we wanted to see if it needed the spacers cause some dont vibe.
As for 33's he is running Mud Stars they are 33x12.5x15's and we have raced it and i doesnt scrub but we are doin a BL soon anyway, they cost him $230 a tyre and are a tad noisey but a great off road tyre as good as a pro-comp muddie i reckon! ( commence flaming now! )
Good luck with it they are unstoppable with a bit of a lift and some tyres, give marty a ring he will set you right!
Have fun,
Steve.
GQ Space Cab V8. Team Toxic, Sponsored by Dobinsons Suspension Sydney 02 4647 8295 Loveday 4x4 Adventures, Sharmans Engineering, Lightforce, R&B Tiling Services, CW Crash and my long suffering wife.
caster bushes $130
clutch line $90
brake line $30-$60 get the brake n cluth lines done by a brake specialist is half the price of a 4x4 shop
x member spacers not sure never bought them
front arm spacers $65 from marks adapters
springs $450
shocks $130ea 9000 procomps are good value
rear upper arms you can replace the full length pipe off your standard arms or buy adjustables from superior engineering I think they do a spring locater to not sure on $
you will have to cut rear diff bump stop plates back to diff tubes n space shock out 8mm to prevent shock damage
Been awhile since I bought parts so check prices these r only approximates
adjustable panhards r not usually needed n you should'nt have any vibrations but you mite need to bend your transfer leaver or buy a lockout plate from marks adapters
bump stops are a fabrication job but not hard you can un bolt them n get after market or extend yours with a spacer
If your using 16" rims silverstone mt117 tyres are 305 70 16 or 33" ive been told the get good life 80 000 km n are'nt overly noisy they are an aggresive tyre n look good should be $250 ish ea
I think thats everything
clutch line $90
brake line $30-$60 get the brake n cluth lines done by a brake specialist is half the price of a 4x4 shop
x member spacers not sure never bought them
front arm spacers $65 from marks adapters
springs $450
shocks $130ea 9000 procomps are good value
rear upper arms you can replace the full length pipe off your standard arms or buy adjustables from superior engineering I think they do a spring locater to not sure on $
you will have to cut rear diff bump stop plates back to diff tubes n space shock out 8mm to prevent shock damage
Been awhile since I bought parts so check prices these r only approximates
adjustable panhards r not usually needed n you should'nt have any vibrations but you mite need to bend your transfer leaver or buy a lockout plate from marks adapters
bump stops are a fabrication job but not hard you can un bolt them n get after market or extend yours with a spacer
If your using 16" rims silverstone mt117 tyres are 305 70 16 or 33" ive been told the get good life 80 000 km n are'nt overly noisy they are an aggresive tyre n look good should be $250 ish ea
I think thats everything
..
2" bd + 2" sus.
I have done 4- 5 " sus myself, I would never do it again.
I have done 4- 5 " sus myself, I would never do it again.
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
if all you want to do is run 33's. Then all you need is the 40mm lift that OME (ARB) have in there book. I ran this with 285/75R16 BFG muds and Cooper STT's for a number of years before I put in a 50mm BL and fitted 35's. It handled very well at high speed up till the last 6mths, when the shocks started to die (thats almost 200 000km though).
Carried some big loads. Did a number of long trips. And this is only 4shocks, 3 coils. No more. My caster was still with in limits with this lift. Axle's where only moved slightly to one side.
Carried some big loads. Did a number of long trips. And this is only 4shocks, 3 coils. No more. My caster was still with in limits with this lift. Axle's where only moved slightly to one side.
THOUGHT FOR THE DAY....
before I chopped the crap outta Jasons shorty it was running 35 claws with 2 " suspension lift and 2" bodylift and i am running 33s onroad and 34" Jungle trekkers offroad on my LWB with only 2"suspension lift
keep your car as low as you possibly can and use things like sliders etc to protect the body of your car
dave
edit..added a pic of mine with 285/75/16s or 33s in old skool and 2"suspension lift..not the best pic but gives you an idea
keep your car as low as you possibly can and use things like sliders etc to protect the body of your car
dave
edit..added a pic of mine with 285/75/16s or 33s in old skool and 2"suspension lift..not the best pic but gives you an idea
www.bolsys.com.au
the original and the best
the original and the best
Re: SWB Maverick Suspension/Tyre suggestions plz
I ran 33 BFGs with a 3inch sus lift, no chop.
after having had one, I have now come to conclusion that 6inch lifts a for wanks and people with small widgers unless your an A grade comp person
DILLIGAFYMMV
after having had one, I have now come to conclusion that 6inch lifts a for wanks and people with small widgers unless your an A grade comp person
DILLIGAFYMMV
Thanks alot guys for ya help seems like 2" sus is the way to go
Quick question as u covered everything else
If i do gets vibes are they perment or can i fix them by doing something?
Also my rims i didn't really want to change then there 15x8 rims not sure on offset how can u tell? Can 33's go on those rims
Thanks so much better get going got work
Thanks
Rick.
Quick question as u covered everything else
If i do gets vibes are they perment or can i fix them by doing something?
Also my rims i didn't really want to change then there 15x8 rims not sure on offset how can u tell? Can 33's go on those rims
Thanks so much better get going got work
Thanks
Rick.
depends whats causing it.Mulisha wrote:If i do gets vibes are they perment or can i fix them by doing something?
8's will do 12.5 wide..Also my rims i didn't really want to change then there 15x8 rims not sure on offset how can u tell? Can 33's go on those rims
15's will do 15inch hole in middle.
Outside diameter doesnt matter.
Mulisha wrote:Thanks alot guys for ya help seems like 2" sus is the way to go
Quick question as u covered everything else
If i do gets vibes are they perment or can i fix them by doing something?
Anything is fixable!!!
Also my rims i didn't really want to change then there 15x8 rims not sure on offset how can u tell? Can 33's go on those rims
A standard 15x8 rim should be ok. I recently fitted 33's and new 15x8's - The rims are negative offset (meaning further out from the axle)
Keep in mind that the tyres will probably rub on your inner guard or bumper ends - A 2" body lift will cure this...
Thanks so much better get going got work
Thanks
Rick.
Hey Rick, I've been resisting joining in on this thread as I didn't want to sound like I was trying to influence you into buying my springs and shocks.
A two inch lift can, but doesn't always, cause vibration in your rear tailshaft. This can be fixed by lowering your gearbox crossmember 13mm using the spacers or by replacing your lower control arms (which you should consider at some point to put stronger ones in) with longer arms to reset your tailshaft angles. Mine didn't vibrate but it did hum at 90km/hr with the 2" springs in it. I have no use for the crossmember spacers so I offered to throw them in if you want the springs and shocks. You may not need them, and if you replace control arms you won't, but they would already be there if you needed them.
8" rims are perfect for 33's and should clear without the body lift. 33's will only rub on the inside of the guard and chassis if you put long shocks in. If they do, all you have to do is grind the ends of your seatbelt bolts down and there is no problem when they do rub. The shocks that come with the springs are the length specified for a two inch lift and do not cause the tyres to rub here. With a rear locker you don't really need the extra flex of a longer shock anyway, but if you do decide to buy new gear and go for longer shocks, Procomps are a good choice.
A 2" lift can, but not always, mess up your caster causing the car to wander all over the road as the steering is more direct. To fix this you can put in offset radius arm bushes, but they don't flex as well as nissan rubber bushes. I think Superior Engineering also do a 2" drop box, which would be a better option, but I'm not too sure how true that is. My suggestion is to do the lift and get the tyres first, then see what it drives like before deciding if you need to fix the caster angle. I never changed anything with the 2" lift and never really noticed much difference until I put 35's on it.
The second hand option is there if you want to get out of it cheaper, that's all (means getting a front locker faster). The springs haven't sagged and the shocks haven't got many k's on them but its still not the same as buying new shiny stuff so don't buy them if its not what you want. They are there if you decide it's the the best option for you. I think you are on the right track by asking as many people as possible for advice so you can make a decision that you will be happy with.
A two inch lift can, but doesn't always, cause vibration in your rear tailshaft. This can be fixed by lowering your gearbox crossmember 13mm using the spacers or by replacing your lower control arms (which you should consider at some point to put stronger ones in) with longer arms to reset your tailshaft angles. Mine didn't vibrate but it did hum at 90km/hr with the 2" springs in it. I have no use for the crossmember spacers so I offered to throw them in if you want the springs and shocks. You may not need them, and if you replace control arms you won't, but they would already be there if you needed them.
8" rims are perfect for 33's and should clear without the body lift. 33's will only rub on the inside of the guard and chassis if you put long shocks in. If they do, all you have to do is grind the ends of your seatbelt bolts down and there is no problem when they do rub. The shocks that come with the springs are the length specified for a two inch lift and do not cause the tyres to rub here. With a rear locker you don't really need the extra flex of a longer shock anyway, but if you do decide to buy new gear and go for longer shocks, Procomps are a good choice.
A 2" lift can, but not always, mess up your caster causing the car to wander all over the road as the steering is more direct. To fix this you can put in offset radius arm bushes, but they don't flex as well as nissan rubber bushes. I think Superior Engineering also do a 2" drop box, which would be a better option, but I'm not too sure how true that is. My suggestion is to do the lift and get the tyres first, then see what it drives like before deciding if you need to fix the caster angle. I never changed anything with the 2" lift and never really noticed much difference until I put 35's on it.
The second hand option is there if you want to get out of it cheaper, that's all (means getting a front locker faster). The springs haven't sagged and the shocks haven't got many k's on them but its still not the same as buying new shiny stuff so don't buy them if its not what you want. They are there if you decide it's the the best option for you. I think you are on the right track by asking as many people as possible for advice so you can make a decision that you will be happy with.
What's the difference between ignorance and apathy? I don't know and I don't care.
I am an insomniac dyslexic agnostic. I often lay awake all night wondering if there really is a Dog.
I am an insomniac dyslexic agnostic. I often lay awake all night wondering if there really is a Dog.
Hmmmm about those vibrations/ noise. Well, I have them now ...noticed it for the first time driving it this arvo. Not too bad but one should look at it. Since its only just started up it would seem to me the castor bushes or such may need replacingMulisha wrote:I farkin hope so .. hmmDoggy wrote:In regards to the vibrations its all a bit of a lottery. I have had my shorty for 2 or so years with a 5" spring lift and 35's and I have gotten very minimal, if any vibrations at all. Ive got 3rds rear lower control arms, tough dog adjustable panhard rods, gearbox spacers and castor correction bushes on the front and it all works seemingly well. An old boss of minr had a 2 inch lift and 32's and hiswas absolutely shocking so yeah, buy a ticket and hope you win
I really don't want vibrations..
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