Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Drive shafts.
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Drive shafts.
where can I get some custom drive shafts, bomb proof and long travel, only need single uni, ( no double cardin), would like to be in Melbourne if possible. ( fark I want everything).
Cheezy, i use to get mine made at brisbane driveshafts (bit far to go just for a shafting) but i make mine myself now.
I use some Hydrolic tubing (7mm wall,seamless).
At Xrcc i was only using this on the rear shaft, it has coped a flogging before than without even a dent, (there was one part at XRCC i was sitting on just my rear shaft and still trying to drive and its just got a few light scrathes on it).
The front shaft was a custom built one, i asked for the strongest wall posible and it was only about 2.5mm.
I am going to use the same tubing for the front as i used on the rear.
Because most of the stuff we do is at low speed the need for it to be balanced is pretty pointless.
However i take my time to get it running fairly true.
I did a rear shaft for BJ about 6 months ago out of the same material and hes still using it, BJ also drives his car every day and their is little to no vibration at 100 km an hour.
Yes it probarbly puts a fair bit of strain on uni's ect but i suppose regular maintanence would have to increase to allow for the extra load.
I use some Hydrolic tubing (7mm wall,seamless).
At Xrcc i was only using this on the rear shaft, it has coped a flogging before than without even a dent, (there was one part at XRCC i was sitting on just my rear shaft and still trying to drive and its just got a few light scrathes on it).
The front shaft was a custom built one, i asked for the strongest wall posible and it was only about 2.5mm.
I am going to use the same tubing for the front as i used on the rear.
Because most of the stuff we do is at low speed the need for it to be balanced is pretty pointless.
However i take my time to get it running fairly true.
I did a rear shaft for BJ about 6 months ago out of the same material and hes still using it, BJ also drives his car every day and their is little to no vibration at 100 km an hour.
Yes it probarbly puts a fair bit of strain on uni's ect but i suppose regular maintanence would have to increase to allow for the extra load.
POS wrote:Cheezy, i use to get mine made at brisbane driveshafts (bit far to go just for a shafting) but i make mine myself now.
I use some Hydrolic tubing (7mm wall,seamless).
At Xrcc i was only using this on the rear shaft, it has coped a flogging before than without even a dent, (there was one part at XRCC i was sitting on just my rear shaft and still trying to drive and its just got a few light scrathes on it).
The front shaft was a custom built one, i asked for the strongest wall posible and it was only about 2.5mm.
I am going to use the same tubing for the front as i used on the rear.
Because most of the stuff we do is at low speed the need for it to be balanced is pretty pointless.
However i take my time to get it running fairly true.
I did a rear shaft for BJ about 6 months ago out of the same material and hes still using it, BJ also drives his car every day and their is little to no vibration at 100 km an hour.
Yes it probarbly puts a fair bit of strain on uni's ect but i suppose regular maintanence would have to increase to allow for the extra load.
i do not know why it hasnt flogged out my unis, or t-case or pinion
i am at a loss, as i flog the arse off it and its the best ive ever had and the cheapest too
i love the price,
and build it once 
hands and mums dont count!!!
POS wrote:Yeah my rear shaft is about a 40cm longer than bj's and i get a slight vibration at 90k's (max speed for 3y pushing 35's).
After playing around and doing them myself i would never pay for another one (unless its for a daily driver).
http://www.balancemasters.com/driveshaft.html
Do these things actually work?
//
cplux wrote:Cheezy,
Hypolux and myself both got super long travel front shafts done at Gibsons engineering in Newcastle, mine will extend to 1.2m, they look super strong but not sure what they are made of but i think the have holden v8 uni's
Craig mines got hilux unis on it
HYPOFAB Thanks to:
Polyperformance
Yuri 4x4
Longfield
Cheezy i got both of mine from the states. the rear one was from six staes and the front one was from tom woods. the fount one has a 14 inch slip in it.
all i ahad to do was ring them up and give them the measurements and they were here in two weeks and they were perfect.
I have had some made up in shops in Melbourne but they are never right.
The shafts from the states cost me $750. to $1000. and i highly recomend them.
MC
all i ahad to do was ring them up and give them the measurements and they were here in two weeks and they were perfect.
I have had some made up in shops in Melbourne but they are never right.
The shafts from the states cost me $750. to $1000. and i highly recomend them.
MC
the reason i need alot of slip is that in the front i have reverse shackle and buggy springs ,i would say i probably use about 10 - 12 inches of that shaft.
I didnt find that states drive shafts that expensive when you are buying them outright . Calbah charge $1000. for their double cardin drive shaft
MC
I didnt find that states drive shafts that expensive when you are buying them outright . Calbah charge $1000. for their double cardin drive shaft
MC
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests