Buying 80s

[pridhac]

Folks,

First up, (just to let y'all know) I have read comprehensively through the All Series Cruiser Bible thread, and gained much useful info from that source.

I have decided to swap my 75s cab chassis for an 80s wagon.

A friend of mine that runs a car yard has an 80 coming in that I am going to look at. The 80 in question is a white '91 model factory turbo (unsure yet if it is poverty pack, DX or GXL). It has 400,000Km on the clock, and receipts for an engine rebuild 80,000Km ago (I haven't seen these receipts yet, so don't know what this 'rebuild' entailed).

I plan to collect the 80 from the yard on Friday and take it to my mechanic for a look over.

I plan to get the mechanic (Tony, at Max Phillip Autos) to have a good look and listen, although not being a diesel tech,
Tony tells me he can't compression test the motor, but can look/listen for blow-by.

What items would be considered essential to appear on the rebuild receipts? What else should I get Tony to look at, and what else should I be aware of on general?

Cheers,

Chris

[Suspension Stuff]

Firstly I would check to make sure it is a factory 1HD-T by turning it on and seeing if it takes about a second or less to start instead of waiting longer for the glow plugs to glow. When it does start it should turn over immediately.

It should go like a rocket if not the pump might just need opening up a bit as most are set conservatively. I would do the bottom end bearings every 100,000ks just incase. (Less than $500) A reconditioned engine should cost at least $7000 and if the wrong person reconditions it they will use lots of oil and there are plenty of things they can shortcut. I Can't help with the technical stuff.

The pump should have been reconditioned by now and have 3 stages of upgrades done to it while getting reconditioned. Only receipts will tell you this. At least $1500.

Turbo recondition might be done or will need doing for maybe $1500. Everything seems expensive with these Toyotas.

The direct injection ones are worth it as they can put up with more heat before they go bang, I do recommend a pyro metre, a temperature sensor off the exhaust.

Make sure the aircon works well.

Shane

[4runner2.8]

the gearbox is the other main thing id make sure is ok. if its getting tired it will be hard to change gear particually into 2nd. crunchy down changes. and falling out of a gear mainly happens in 5th. if they need re building they cost mega bucks to do in parts alone.

[topend-yobbo]

1991 80s did not come with the 1hd-t as far as I know.Only the 1hz and 3f.
Personelly I would wait for a later model wagon with less kays on board.
Motor rebuild maybe one thing but what about diffs g box and transfer??
Theres plenty of good ones out there , don't jump on the first one.

[4runner2.8]

1991 80s did not come with the 1hd-t as far as I know.Only the 1hz and 3f.

the 1hd-t came out in 1990 and ended in 1995.

[sniper]

yes mine is a 90 GXL 4.2TD factor 1HD-T

[pridhac]

Thanks for all the tips guys :-)

I think waiting for a later model less Km example might be the way to go.

A turbo for 12K did seem like a good idea though......

[RUFF]

I watched exactly the car you describe go through a Public auction here in Brisbane 2 weeks ago. It had an ARB front bar and a winch as well.91, GXL, White, Factory Turbo, 5spd, From memory had well under 300K on the clock. Had very slight fresh water damage. Had not reached the top of the seats or got into the motor or airfilter. Sold for $7800. Only repairs it needed was a lower tailgate and a good clean.