Hey guys. My Sierra has a 4AGE 20v in it which I killed last weekend :(
Rather than getting it fixed, I'm going to drop a second hand engine in there but I'm unsure if all 4AGE 20v Silvertop engines are the same or if there are RWD/FWD versions and if this is going to make a difference.
Can anyone who knows much about this conversion please enlighten me?
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
20v in a Sierra
20v in a Sierra
S1 R33 Gts-t: ITS T04e, Wolf3dv4, 16psi - 242rwkw - DEAD (mate flipped it)
Sierra: 4AGE 20v, ARB rear locker, 30's
Sierra: 4AGE 20v, ARB rear locker, 30's
Swamp it or dead inside.
musta been reaming it to kill it.
U can aslo get the black top ones. AFAIK all engines are the same. dizzy may have to look at but.
Nic
musta been reaming it to kill it.
U can aslo get the black top ones. AFAIK all engines are the same. dizzy may have to look at but.
Nic
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
If its RWD and you mount it north/south (which you have to) the inlet will be pointing at the front of the car (good). If its a FWD it will be pointing backwards (bad). You can cut and shut the inlet so its running the right way but its a fair bit of work. Id just re-use whatever you are running now though.
I would get a second hand motor, put it in, and rebuild your stuffed one and put that one back in and sell the other one.
Otherwise PM me and I might buy your stuffed one off you as Im only running a 16v.
I would get a second hand motor, put it in, and rebuild your stuffed one and put that one back in and sell the other one.
Otherwise PM me and I might buy your stuffed one off you as Im only running a 16v.
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|.........SUZUKI..........| ||'|";, ____.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ]
(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
I was quoted $2k to fix it. All valves were leaking so the head needed a recondition (800) and one rod was bent which was a bit over 1k to fix.
I've found a replacement bare motor for $450 which is cheap for a 20v. I've seen them for sale for 500-1000 so there not actually that expensive being a fairly old engine. That's for the silvertop one anyway. Blacktop's are another story.
But yeah, I found out that they're pretty much all FWD so here's to hoping that replacing the motor in mine with another one won't cost too much. Does it sound like it will be more involved than just a simple swap in swap out with whichever parts of the conversion are already on the current motor just swapped over?
Should I just spend the 2k and have myself a 20v with a fully recon'd head? I plan on selling the car anyway shortly so I want the most cost effective solution obviously, but not one that's going to leave me with a crappy outcome and a car that I can't sell.
Hmmm... this is tough. Damn engine conversions.
Either that or I could just try to get 6.5k in the state it's in now. Coily with air locker, internal roll bar, dual batts, lift, 30's, etc... etc...
I've found a replacement bare motor for $450 which is cheap for a 20v. I've seen them for sale for 500-1000 so there not actually that expensive being a fairly old engine. That's for the silvertop one anyway. Blacktop's are another story.
But yeah, I found out that they're pretty much all FWD so here's to hoping that replacing the motor in mine with another one won't cost too much. Does it sound like it will be more involved than just a simple swap in swap out with whichever parts of the conversion are already on the current motor just swapped over?
Should I just spend the 2k and have myself a 20v with a fully recon'd head? I plan on selling the car anyway shortly so I want the most cost effective solution obviously, but not one that's going to leave me with a crappy outcome and a car that I can't sell.
Hmmm... this is tough. Damn engine conversions.
Either that or I could just try to get 6.5k in the state it's in now. Coily with air locker, internal roll bar, dual batts, lift, 30's, etc... etc...
S1 R33 Gts-t: ITS T04e, Wolf3dv4, 16psi - 242rwkw - DEAD (mate flipped it)
Sierra: 4AGE 20v, ARB rear locker, 30's
Sierra: 4AGE 20v, ARB rear locker, 30's
all 20v are fwd, just use the rwd adapater gear that obviously is on yours currently and put it on the new block, silver and black top differ slightly but you wont find any difference between silver and silver or black to black. Just try to find a fresh one, that sill has the airbox with airflow meter and everything on it and your away. Look around 800 bucks max for engine without ecu loom and gearbox, all of which you should already have obviously.
EDIT when i say airbox still on, i mean because thats the first thing anyone in japan takes off if they are going to do anything more than rape the living piss out of it. Because of the quad throttles they respond well to induction mods.
EDIT when i say airbox still on, i mean because thats the first thing anyone in japan takes off if they are going to do anything more than rape the living piss out of it. Because of the quad throttles they respond well to induction mods.
Yes all 20V engines cam FWD from factory. You should have the silvertop 20V in your Sierra as i know the original owner that did the conversion. The half cut was originally purchased from here (Rolin Automotive Imports). I have a Silvertop 20V engine here on the shelf, test run and ready to go for $850.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests