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Intercooler pics, where have you stuck em?
10th in out back challenge and a 4wd fabricator and he sez go front mount. only good multisetup is a denco
Last edited by tna racing on Tue Mar 13, 2007 10:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1993 Gq lwb with added xtra's :) sold
fj60,lifted,35s,33s for daily, 3f power!
fj60,lifted,35s,33s for daily, 3f power!
Denco dont have a top mount option - only their water to air barrell system. Your expert is a genius. I'd listen to him. Maybe a reason he got 10th...adam penfold wrote:10th in out back challenge and a 4wd fabricator and he sez go front mount only good top mount is a denco
keep going, Im cryin over here
The only way you are going to get peak power from this motor is to spend big money on it. If you aren't prepared to do that then you are never going to push it to it's limits and you may as well just go with a well set up TMIC.
You gotta remember it's a 4wd, it's made to go off road, you want it to be tough and you want it to be reliable.
Pushing a motor to it's limits is not going to help with reliability, and mounting an intercooler on the front is never going to be good for longevity of the setup.
It's either going to cop damage or it's going to get filled with shit/mud & reduce it's effectiveness.
It's the age old rule - you can have it cheap, reliable or fast, pick any two because you can't have all three.
You gotta remember it's a 4wd, it's made to go off road, you want it to be tough and you want it to be reliable.
Pushing a motor to it's limits is not going to help with reliability, and mounting an intercooler on the front is never going to be good for longevity of the setup.
It's either going to cop damage or it's going to get filled with shit/mud & reduce it's effectiveness.
It's the age old rule - you can have it cheap, reliable or fast, pick any two because you can't have all three.
Adam penfold...
You may be pissed off, but the rest of Outerlimits4x4 is laughing their ass off at your exspense, your arguments didn't do a thing to strenghten your case, it only made you look like a no-all 15 yearold rooster jockey, and Al Cuthill should sack you for dragging his name down on a puplic forum. What you weren't punished enough in your last post for being rude and ignorant? Then to start here like you know something, being flat rude to knowledgeable people with REAL world experience, your just asking to get owned aren't you? Do yourself and us a favour, apologize and apply self administered frontal labotomy
You may be pissed off, but the rest of Outerlimits4x4 is laughing their ass off at your exspense, your arguments didn't do a thing to strenghten your case, it only made you look like a no-all 15 yearold rooster jockey, and Al Cuthill should sack you for dragging his name down on a puplic forum. What you weren't punished enough in your last post for being rude and ignorant? Then to start here like you know something, being flat rude to knowledgeable people with REAL world experience, your just asking to get owned aren't you? Do yourself and us a favour, apologize and apply self administered frontal labotomy
Actually I know Al Cuthill very well,adam penfold wrote:10th in out back challenge and a 4wd fabricator and he sez go front mount. only good multisetup is a denco
He and I were both talking about this on the weekend, the denco water barrel is to small and is very limiting and I would not suggest this setup unless you choose a larger barrel.
If you were going to go water to air you would need a minimum of a 6 x 8 barrel that PWR supply. This has been researched its no random specs another vehicle has this setup and its the bare minmum and unfortunately you cant go any larger as your limited for space unless you fit a body lift (GQ or GU)....
I'm going front mount on mine ,, why its cheaper if its setup properly shouldnt have any over heating problems.
Al has just done an 04 GU motor, with a Aus4wd turbo and al made up the manifold and did the snorkel and front mount.
It came back from diesel-tec with a modded pump, the dyno result was 205 rwkw and 25psi... and was later de-tuned to 175rwkw @ 18psi...
.... my opinion would be to do a front mount or spend the coin and do a proper water to air setup but for a daily driver tourer a front mount is ideal as I avoid bog holes as all they do is fuck up everything and if you like driving in bog holes you should really asess why you go 4wding....
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weeman wrote:Actually I know Al Cuthill very well,adam penfold wrote:10th in out back challenge and a 4wd fabricator and he sez go front mount. only good multisetup is a denco
He and I were both talking about this on the weekend, the denco water barrel is to small and is very limiting and I would not suggest this setup unless you choose a larger barrel.
If you were going to go water to air you would need a minimum of a 6 x 8 barrel that PWR supply. This has been researched its no random specs another vehicle has this setup and its the bare minmum and unfortunately you cant go any larger as your limited for space unless you fit a body lift (GQ or GU)....
I'm going front mount on mine ,, why its cheaper if its setup properly shouldnt have any over heating problems.
Al has just done an 04 GU motor, with a Aus4wd turbo and al made up the manifold and did the snorkel and front mount.
It came back from diesel-tec with a modded pump, the dyno result was 205 rwkw and 25psi... and was later de-tuned to 175rwkw @ 18psi...
.... my opinion would be to do a front mount or spend the coin and do a proper water to air setup but for a daily driver tourer a front mount is ideal as I avoid bog holes as all they do is ***** up everything and if you like driving in bog holes you should really asess why you go 4wding....
awsome mate he was telling me about ur gu and he wants 2 get his going better so it can keep up with u am i right.duz it smoke all tyers easy
1993 Gq lwb with added xtra's :) sold
fj60,lifted,35s,33s for daily, 3f power!
fj60,lifted,35s,33s for daily, 3f power!
I am looking a fitting an intercooler to a HJ61 cruiser, found this thread during a search.
Seems the FMIC vs. TMIC debate is nearly as fiery as the Patrol v Cruiser, Holden v Ford arguments.
Isn't some sort of intercooling better than nothing? It would appear that all vehicles fitted without an intercooler have a cross over pipe across the top of the engine, so would suffer from heat soak worse than no intercooler.......
I considered a front mount but feel that the extra plumbing, cutting radiator aprons, trimming grilles and fitting blow off valves goes against the KISS principal. (plus I am too old for a blow off valve and the missus reckons I already have one of them that is overworked as it is.....
I considered a water/air but the cost holds me back a bit, and to try and do it on the cheap worries me, if the heat exchanger is faulty and leaks into the intake.....
I think that is why I am looking at a top mount, cheaper, easier to fit, basic in construction, but not as efficient. To combat heat soak I was thinking of fitting it using silicon hoses to insulate the I/C from the intake and turbo, (rather than solid pipe bolding intake and I/C together) and maybe fitting a small thermo fan for when travelling slow.
Other than getting reduction fittings, is there any problems/issues with using an I/C that has 3" inlet/outlet if the intake and turbo are smaller sizes?
thanks in advance,
MB
Seems the FMIC vs. TMIC debate is nearly as fiery as the Patrol v Cruiser, Holden v Ford arguments.
Isn't some sort of intercooling better than nothing? It would appear that all vehicles fitted without an intercooler have a cross over pipe across the top of the engine, so would suffer from heat soak worse than no intercooler.......
I considered a front mount but feel that the extra plumbing, cutting radiator aprons, trimming grilles and fitting blow off valves goes against the KISS principal. (plus I am too old for a blow off valve and the missus reckons I already have one of them that is overworked as it is.....
I considered a water/air but the cost holds me back a bit, and to try and do it on the cheap worries me, if the heat exchanger is faulty and leaks into the intake.....
I think that is why I am looking at a top mount, cheaper, easier to fit, basic in construction, but not as efficient. To combat heat soak I was thinking of fitting it using silicon hoses to insulate the I/C from the intake and turbo, (rather than solid pipe bolding intake and I/C together) and maybe fitting a small thermo fan for when travelling slow.
Other than getting reduction fittings, is there any problems/issues with using an I/C that has 3" inlet/outlet if the intake and turbo are smaller sizes?
thanks in advance,
MB
I would also like to find this out as my turbo outlet is 2.5" and my throttle body is 3" and i was going to get a 600x300x76mm 3"inlet/outlet Bar and Plate.flyology wrote:
Other than getting reduction fittings, is there any problems/issues with using an I/C that has 3" inlet/outlet if the intake and turbo are smaller sizes?
thanks in advance,
MB
Cheers
Rick.
still pissing myself laughing at this one....
its amazing anyone with one finger and single syllable writing ability can be an expert for aftercooling diesel engines.
as for the reassessing going 4wding comment, I go 4wding because i enjoy it.
I enjoy mud, rocks, bogs, everything. So if i wanto immerse my truck in door sil height mud, then so be it. If i wanto crawl over rocks at -20km/h then so be it.
Once people realise there are different trucks for different purposes, they will then realise that there are different solutions that are Better for any given requirement, or an all-round solution.
jes
its amazing anyone with one finger and single syllable writing ability can be an expert for aftercooling diesel engines.
as for the reassessing going 4wding comment, I go 4wding because i enjoy it.
I enjoy mud, rocks, bogs, everything. So if i wanto immerse my truck in door sil height mud, then so be it. If i wanto crawl over rocks at -20km/h then so be it.
Once people realise there are different trucks for different purposes, they will then realise that there are different solutions that are Better for any given requirement, or an all-round solution.
jes
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
its uses water to cool the air. Its basically a heat exchanger, same principal that is used on the hot water shower systems,Mulisha wrote:GQTrav wrote:Here's a pick of mine. It's a PWR barrel, as weeman said, the one supplied with the denco kit is simply too small.
Could soemone please explain to me how that PWR barrel works?
Looks good mate .. real nice what size barrel is that and are they expensive?
cheers
Rick.
Jes
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
My Truck truck has a full safari I/C ( front mount) turbo setup has done 250k since fitted done all forms 4 wheelin never had prob with mud in I/C a good front bar should have a bash plate the pushes the mud downward NOT through the I/C, I dont drive mud any more cos of the mess n damage to oil seals n electrics as far as reliability I've jumped the truck 6 feet in the air n never had any problems with cracks as long as it a quality I/C n the cooler is rubber mounted NOT urathane , urathane tranfers all vibration, there should be no cracking
PWR water to air is a heat exchange n the bigger size is the only 1 to use as stated the smaller ones are restictive. I've seen a 4.8 turbo running 2 of the 6 x 8 barrels n it hammers
All I/C options have there advantages but top mounts are a barsted to work on, to much stuff in engine bay n are generally to small for the applications but do give little lag compared to front mounts
PWR water to air is a heat exchange n the bigger size is the only 1 to use as stated the smaller ones are restictive. I've seen a 4.8 turbo running 2 of the 6 x 8 barrels n it hammers
All I/C options have there advantages but top mounts are a barsted to work on, to much stuff in engine bay n are generally to small for the applications but do give little lag compared to front mounts
i built a shrowd on top of my tmic and mounted a 12 inch fan to it , the fan pokes up through the hole in the bonnet for the scoop and when im finnished i hope to seal the cooler so not to get too much hot air flowing over it from the motor
before the i/c the motor would idle at 800 rpm and after the cooler it idles at 1000 rpm until i sit there for a minute then the hot air heats the cooler then the revs drop back to 800 rpm
reducing the heat soak at slow speeds is not impossible just takes a bit of creative thinking
before the i/c the motor would idle at 800 rpm and after the cooler it idles at 1000 rpm until i sit there for a minute then the hot air heats the cooler then the revs drop back to 800 rpm
reducing the heat soak at slow speeds is not impossible just takes a bit of creative thinking
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