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Webbie wrote:How short was your short side axle Tony NAMS is only about 400mm long which does allow for much flex or torque loads.
How much water are you running in Nams Tyres? Yes the length of that axle will make it a little harder on it. But i doubt that rig has ever been driven half as hard as mine was flogged. I dont think there is another buggy in Aus that has done as many comps as mine has. Or gets flogged as hard all the time. Well maybe Pip flogged his a little harder sometimes
I dont think the 10mm studs and cones will hold it. I personaly beleive the cones are the biggest issue as they lock onto the stud long before the nut pulls up on the axle.
I have also welded axles in before as a last ditch effort to keep in a comp. They then crack around the welds.
The best option is the 3/8 grade 12 bolts and if you want to go one step further run 6 locating dowels but these are usless if they are not done perfectly.
Also if Nams buggy is still running a standard drive flange without stripping the splines out of it then it has nothing to do with the length of the axle. Mine would strip out stock drive flanges in less than one hard stage.
Every comp i would go to (or whenever i drove it) in the old Jeckyl and the first moon buggy i would always replace the studs and the cones as they had either worked loose, broke, or sheared off.
Upgraded to 3/8th UNF (did this before we worked out that UNC is slightly better) and i never touched them again.
Its very easy to do and a lot easier than upgrading to 10 mm with cone locks.
All you have to do is run a drill into the existing hole. I think the taping size is 5/16 (just check that), you can do all this on the buggy as the existing holes allign the drill for you. Then simply tap it out.
If you decided to upgrade to 10mm with cone locks then you either have to shapen a drill perfectly to the same taper as the cones or buy a reamer that is the correct taper. You would alo have to pull the hub of as using a taper tool with a free hand drill will not give you the correct angle. It would have to be bolted onto a bench drill so the taper was perfect.
The cones totally rely on the taper to work and if that taper is slightly wrong you have just wasted alot of time and money on something that could have been done alot quicker and easier.
sounds good but i dont understand why unc is beter than unf with a greater surface area l thought that unf would be heaps better. or is it the hub material that lets them down.
Lockers or Knockers ,both will make for fun.
HYBRID 4B PRDUCTS Visit Tigerz11 here http://www.tigerz11.com.au/ and LOCKTUP 4x4 here http://www.locktup4x4.com.au/ cheers
Webbie wrote:sounds good but i dont understand why unc is beter than unf with a greater surface area l thought that unf would be heaps better. or is it the hub material that lets them down.
Yes the hub material gaules up real easy with a UNF thread. So you usually only get the bolts in and out a couple of times before the thread stuffs up. Also you need to be real carefull starting the bolt or they cross thread. With UNC they go in and out easy. You can do the entire job on the car. Just remove one stud and drill and tap at a time. Leave the axle in while doing this.
The UNF bolts do cross-thread easily, but we found that using a good quality grease and using an allen key made it much easier. This was far better than trying to get the thread started by hand.
UNC works much better in a weak casting, ie. any factory wheel hub is not the best material.
Deeper thread contact into a weak casting has a much greater chance of holding on.
UNF is a better all round choice, but only if onto a high quality material. eg. 4140, EN26 etc
So if material is unknown and you don't want to go to the trouble of testing it, go with UNC.
lts ok Dave we should all know the rules about talking in tech speak around you, Sorry l forget about your case of BRIANFARTISM . Um you need to spill the beans on the saturday night shed session after the show.
Lockers or Knockers ,both will make for fun.
HYBRID 4B PRDUCTS Visit Tigerz11 here http://www.tigerz11.com.au/ and LOCKTUP 4x4 here http://www.locktup4x4.com.au/ cheers
Webbie wrote:lts ok Dave we should all know the rules about talking in tech speak around you, Sorry l forget about your case of BRIANFARTISM . Um you need to spill the beans on the saturday night shed session after the show.
We all eat BBQ, we all drunk, we all got pissed just some more then others
Webbie wrote:lts ok Dave we should all know the rules about talking in tech speak around you, Sorry l forget about your case of BRIANFARTISM . Um you need to spill the beans on the saturday night shed session after the show.
We all eat BBQ, we all drunk, we all got pissed just some more then others
MissForbyNoob wrote:
and one day i'll just become a worthless housewife.
WANTED ...............
need a spotter for rd #2 !!!
Rob has disabled himself (power saw & fingers dont mix)
So I get too drive , just need some-one to spot !!
pm me or ring (& leave msg) 0400537655
Thanx
Moose
MissForbyNoob wrote:
and one day i'll just become a worthless housewife.
yeah !!
he,ll be able to hold a can !!!!
basically took his thumb off , except for some dangly bits !!
had it surgically refitted !!
has to have a cast on , till the 30th !!
therefore he dosen,t want to hurt it the next day !!!!
so i drive & he drinks !!!!
MissForbyNoob wrote:
and one day i'll just become a worthless housewife.
I did not cut through the bone but I cut through tendins and nearly right around the bone gust touched the bone Ihad plastic surgury on tuesday I did it on monday plaster comes off day befour oz rock looking fourward to drinking and hurling abuse .thanx everyone four being concerned ,I have to much time on my hands hope to see a few of u at tuff truck
06 Dual Cab Hilux Loaded with ARB
80 Series With L98 6ltr 35's 4L80E Locked & Loaded
84 Extra Cab Hilux Build up fun car
96 Dual Cab Hilux build up Long range play car
www.trailtrack4x4.com
