The Patrol is off the road for awhile due to major mods...see thread...
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... 437#103437
I've allways been against body lifts as they usually create more problems than they solve, IE: bullbars/sidesteps dont line up any more, steering alterations, gearshift alterations, radiator mods, fuel lines to LPG tanks, break lines etc, and possiable rollovers due to high centre of gravity...... but that was all before I did the SOA conversion last year..... and with that in mind now maybe a good time to look into it.
I'm not going "extream" (<<<< area54's fav word!)...4" is way to far but a sutuble 2" may well be the go. I have plenty of clearance for tyres (35 bfgs) at the moment but again the patrol is getting serious mods and there happens to be a set of 38" TSL swampers sitting in the shed now ( B/day pressie from d woman).
I have a few ideas as to how to get em to fit at this stage but a body lift may be a good start...... I know zilch about bodylifts as I have never done one b4 so any tips are appreciated.
Kingy
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Body Lifts.... pros n cons
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
God of Magnificant Ideas!
Body Lifts.... pros n cons
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...
AAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!! you used the 'e' word!!!!! 
Okay, prolly the first thing to do is make a list of everything that may need attention when you lift the truck - fuel lines, fuel filler hose, gearsticks etc etc, the more methodical you are in your preparation, the less chance of forgetting something.
I did my bodylift in my garage (we live in a 2 bedroom unit) with the help of 2 trolley jacks and about 12 besser blocks. Lifted up the truck by the diffs (trolley jacks), undid the body bolts, removed the wheels, lowered the truck onto the besser blocks (besser blocks placed under the pinchwelded seam along the sill - also supported the front end due to dual batts), put in the new body blocks and bolts, raised the jacks, put on the wheels, all done. There are a million things between each stage, different things on each rig, you'll have to make it up as you go along. I lengthened both sticks, made a chassis extension for the rear so I could raise the rear bumpers and still use the rear factory recovery hook, cut and welded the front winchbar, list goes on.
It's a fairly straightforward mod, there are just a lot of little things that you need to do, but again depends on how pedantic you may be.
Okay, prolly the first thing to do is make a list of everything that may need attention when you lift the truck - fuel lines, fuel filler hose, gearsticks etc etc, the more methodical you are in your preparation, the less chance of forgetting something.
I did my bodylift in my garage (we live in a 2 bedroom unit) with the help of 2 trolley jacks and about 12 besser blocks. Lifted up the truck by the diffs (trolley jacks), undid the body bolts, removed the wheels, lowered the truck onto the besser blocks (besser blocks placed under the pinchwelded seam along the sill - also supported the front end due to dual batts), put in the new body blocks and bolts, raised the jacks, put on the wheels, all done. There are a million things between each stage, different things on each rig, you'll have to make it up as you go along. I lengthened both sticks, made a chassis extension for the rear so I could raise the rear bumpers and still use the rear factory recovery hook, cut and welded the front winchbar, list goes on.
It's a fairly straightforward mod, there are just a lot of little things that you need to do, but again depends on how pedantic you may be.
Built, not bought.
Re: Body Lifts.... pros n cons
V8Patrol wrote:there happens to be a set of 38" TSL swampers sitting in the shed now ( B/day pressie from d woman).
phuck the car, I want ya missus if she buys presents like that!!!
I agree with TuffRR, cut first then do body lift. A well done body lift of 1-2" should be fine, once you have addressed the issues you have said. As to the COG and tipping over if you follow the old for every inch up go the same out you should be ok. Body lifts have there place in a well thought out vehicle if used in conjunction with a suitable suspension lift they can be great or can be as dodgy as hell.
Ransom note = demand + collage
just use it as a last resort. When I bought my datsun maverick, I threw a 3" body lift in because everyone said I would need it to clear tyres (bullshit), and I'd never owned a nissan before so I believed them. The problem is that even though I don't need it, I have moved lots of stuff into that 3" space,. I managed to drop it down to 60mm, and I am considering re-doing a lot of shit to get rid of it completely...
Pro's: Can lift exhaust, fuel tank, barwork, etc inot less vulnerable positions. On some vehicles it gives you more space, for shock mounts, or other suspension stuff,. On some vehicles it definately does help with tyre clearance.
Con's: Raises centre of gravity a tiny bit (pretty negligible really), I think in some vehicles it reduces your visibilty across the bonnet in off camber/steep stuff, the RTA hate it, and it is easy for them to pick on it, as well as making your truck look taller and more modified than it really is, reduces floorpan strength in some vehicles....
Con's: Raises centre of gravity a tiny bit (pretty negligible really), I think in some vehicles it reduces your visibilty across the bonnet in off camber/steep stuff, the RTA hate it, and it is easy for them to pick on it, as well as making your truck look taller and more modified than it really is, reduces floorpan strength in some vehicles....
I was out wheeling with a mate a while back in his 308 MQ. He had just BL'ed his MQ 3". The rag joint got all out of shape and grabbed the pressure line from the PS pump and turned it into a pretzel. Fluid everywhere. The problem came from not extending the column enough. We slipped the splines in the column so that the rag joint engaged properly and he drove home.
Does that help at all?
I am taking the BL out of my 40 when I go SOA to keep the height down. Even though all of the mount points have 2" pucks, the body is not as well supported as it would be without the BL. Good call by Carlton with "looking more modified and taller than it is".
Does that help at all?
I am taking the BL out of my 40 when I go SOA to keep the height down. Even though all of the mount points have 2" pucks, the body is not as well supported as it would be without the BL. Good call by Carlton with "looking more modified and taller than it is".
Last edited by 2car on Wed Oct 08, 2003 4:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
74 FJ40, 307, Hilux DBC, 35 Claws, welded rear.
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MQ's are so easy to body lift, i did mine in about 3-4 hours and that was from scratch i.e. cutting steel, buying bolts and never even done one before (however i did research first). If the rear and front bars were fastened correctly like the toyotas, yeah sure it would be a pain to make a new box section up etc, but just like their drivers, nissan engineers took the easyway option and made crappy brackets, therefore the taks of raising barwork is a simple cut 'n' weld process.
Go 2", eventhough yours is sprungover, on mine i didn't even have to extend the brake lines, drop radiator... and that's with a 3" suspension and 2" shackel already in.
Go 2", eventhough yours is sprungover, on mine i didn't even have to extend the brake lines, drop radiator... and that's with a 3" suspension and 2" shackel already in.
It seems that the best "mannered" formula is:
1. A suspension modification (rather than "lift") to adapt to the aded weights and for better articualtion (usually resulting in a 2" lift)
2. cutting fenders. Hey, they're useless.
3. Test tire clearance.
4. If #3 is void, BL the least necesary.
In my Disco for example, I have a 2" OME lift for better stability, hauling capacity and articualtion. it does THOSE jobs. I have flares to cover up the awful cuts I made (
) to clear the tires, and the 2" BL to make sure I can cycle my nice articulation freely at will.
1. A suspension modification (rather than "lift") to adapt to the aded weights and for better articualtion (usually resulting in a 2" lift)
2. cutting fenders. Hey, they're useless.
3. Test tire clearance.
4. If #3 is void, BL the least necesary.
In my Disco for example, I have a 2" OME lift for better stability, hauling capacity and articualtion. it does THOSE jobs. I have flares to cover up the awful cuts I made (
) to clear the tires, and the 2" BL to make sure I can cycle my nice articulation freely at will.
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
We opted for the 50mm body lift, and will probably put in a new set of springs with a 2 inch lift rather than the current 4 inch. Reason being it retains nearly the original COG as all the major mechanical components are kept low. One thing to consider in our case the new bar and side steps were all made to accomadate the BL and the engine had been removed from the car so other alteratioins were done at this time easily.
Joe.
To succeed, focus on the solution, not the problem.
To succeed, focus on the solution, not the problem.
God of Magnificant Ideas!
pics of the front .... one is + 40mm...
I think a cut along the line of the alloy side step might be the answer here.
What do you think ?????
I think a cut along the line of the alloy side step might be the answer here.
What do you think ?????
Last edited by V8Patrol on Thu Oct 09, 2003 9:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
God of Magnificant Ideas!
body lifts
body lifts on an MQ are easy, all you need to buy are bolts and blocks everything else will move that bit you need it to (apart from bull bars side steps etc) for the body blocks i use straight teflon boat rollers cut to length. bloody hell it will be a frigging sky scraper with 38" tires a spring over and body lift. wahoo!!
God of Magnificant Ideas!
if ya have a close look at the front+40mm jpg, you'll see the w/shop floor jack.... it has an 8" block of redgum on top of it to reach the crossmember !!!!!.... that sort of gives you an idea of how heigh it is..
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
V8Patrol wrote:pics of the front .... one is + 40mm...
I think a cut along the line of the alloy side step might be the answer here.
What do you think ?????
yeh for sure
cut along the line of ya side rail
itll make it look neat and u wont rub at full flex(maybe wont lol)
with the back just keep the orig line just cut into it 1 &1/2 inchs
ur car must be sick off road
how do u get into it? lol
BUY MY HILUX PARTS
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God of Magnificant Ideas!
Have seen it allready kyle ( the brown rig I asume you mean ), prob is that he isnt running 38" swampers and hasnt done the SOA... Thats where I'm getting into trouble, just HOW much clearence do I really need guard wise ???
p/s.... have you seen "chevyMQ's" Black rig yet????? its finished and out of my shed !!!!
p/s.... have you seen "chevyMQ's" Black rig yet????? its finished and out of my shed !!!!
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
God of Magnificant Ideas!
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