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Got to romove the nut/bolt to the front of the crank to replace the seal behind it... however......
It seems as though this has never been done since it was built 20 odd yrs ago.... soooooo what is the best method to get it off??
1. I've tried the rattle gun and up'd it to max psi, still wouldn't budge, but this is only a cheapo rattle gun too... so might not have the balls of a proper workshop quality one!!
2. tried putting a bar inbetween the bolts from the flywheel to hold it in place and a breaker bar on the other end with extention on it for more leverage... not moving!!!!
3. have soaked it with WD40 every 30mins or so for most of this arvo and will have a crack at it again tomorrow.
I deal with mower and power tool repairs a lot, and quite often on the bottom of a lawnmower for instance, the bolt that holds in the blade plate goes in an opposite direction to the way the plate spins when running, therefore hopefully providing a tightening motion on the bolt. so that is the type of situation I have known them to be in when you have turning parts.
not so sure about a crank, just thought I would give you another idea
99 Nissan Terrano II TDi, 2" lift, 30's, UHF, Hellas, Bull Bar
Bigger better rattle gun. 3/4 drive, proper six sided rattle socket, n feed her the fat. Beware tho if the back of the rattle gun is close to the radiator, when the bolt comes out it mite wind the gun into the rad....
I tryed a rattle gun and could not un do it on my 1hz so I asked a mate of mine .
He said to use a 32mm socket on a breaker bar and strap it to the chassie and turn the key to start and after the second time i tryed it it came off.
Good luck.
also putting it back on was fun as the 1hz nut needs to be tightend to 350 foot/pounds.
toyota 80#,d/cab ute chop,6" springs,20mm body lift, 315/75/16 muds, and 39" michelin XML play tyres , turbo 4.2 1HZ top mount intercooler diesel.now ENGINEERED.
Reece
Can be a real MoFo, but you may have to bolt a decent pice of angle onto the back of the block then find something to wedge into the flywheel teeth to stop the crank turning. Then a BIG breaker bar.
i'd say what red60 said or put the starter back in and a breaker bar to the chassis rail or ground . or try a crank nut cracker tool , most workshops have them .
as said before double and triple check its not left hand thread as you will open a whole new can of worns if you snap it in there trust me . By the way the tensioner pulley on the holden v6 in my lux is left hand thread, dont ask how i know
tuff-lux wrote:as said before double and triple check its not left hand thread as you will open a whole new can of worns if you snap it in there trust me . By the way the tensioner pulley on the holden v6 in my lux is left hand thread, dont ask how i know
Unless the engine runs backwards its not going to be Left Hand thread.
The tensioner on your commodore is LH thread because the tensioner runs backwards.
Had to put the engine on it's side on the garage floor, wedge the flywheel bolts with a bar to the ground... and use a breaker bar with a BIG F&%# OFF extention on it for leverage b4 it would crack...
I had the same problem. Motor was on a stand and rattle gun wouldn't move it!!! I took off the oil slump and used the rubber handle of my pliers and very carefully braced the crank across the bottom of the bore (cylinder one closest to the harmonic balancer) so that the crank could not spin (would have to snap the pliers first). then an 8 foot bit of pipe and a breaker bar did the trick.
hope i haven't confused you too much
SASS
