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Toddles wrote:Does the X-link affect the on-road handling of say an 80 series at all? Doesn't make it body roll more or anything? Will still as though you had a normal lift kit?
Also, why exactly does it allow or make for extra flex? Would it work on any size lift? say if you had a 3" or a 2" would it give you more flex if you had one, or only make a big difference once you get up around the 4"-6" lift area?
Just trying to find out a bit more about it all and how it all works and why it works.
Cheers
Todd
hey mate..
mines a home made jobbie not one of the dobbins one's but works on the same principal...
i run mine with a rear sway and no front and its still very good to drive for its hight... with no sway bars its like a fat lady on roller skates!! but u have to expect that as the front is now a lot more "free" to do wat it wants..
i would guess if u have much more than 4" lift it would be a good idea to have a flip arm as the steering arm behind ur diff will probably hit the trailing arms..
do a bit of a search for the other x link thread.. it describes how it works.. i cbf atm..
was at BBM yesterday when they took delivery of an X LINK display. it is a 80 series diff with x link fitted on a stand.
this is realy good and shows just how the thing works.
if you are thinking of an x link go into BBM and have alook at the display and you will be sold.
mines a home made jobbie not one of the dobbins one's but works on the same principal...
i run mine with a rear sway and no front and its still very good to drive for its hight... with no sway bars its like a fat lady on roller skates!! but u have to expect that as the front is now a lot more "free" to do wat it wants..
i would guess if u have much more than 4" lift it would be a good idea to have a flip arm as the steering arm behind ur diff will probably hit the trailing arms..
do a bit of a search for the other x link thread.. it describes how it works.. i cbf atm..
Cheers guys, don't want one or need one at the moment. Just an interesting bit of engineering and was simply wondering how/why it worked.
Might look into it more down the future, but got a whole lot of other things to do before I go that serious.
Is it just me or does that look bent on the drivers side just near where the triangle plate mounts to the diff
so when you going to make one for yours Pete
I realize I'm getting in on this a little late but besides the obvious improvements what is an X link and how does improve the articulation?
I can guess but I don't want to sound like a silly Yankee.
cheers,
kris
on the above pitcure is a homemade version of it
its the yellow bar that pivots in the middle and connects to the front of the radius arms were it usually bolts onto the diff [cut front radius bolt mounting off diff and connect x link ]
it allows the diff housing to move without the radius arms restricting movement and allow greater flex ,
with out it the radius arms don't allow the diff to move and restrains any movement
rustys wrote:I wouldn't even let my mother in law drive that NISSAN.
I hope that Round bar is solid and you have painted the ends black to make it look like tube.
Garth Rustys Fabworx
Its tube and it bent the first time he flexed it. This is the reason modified 4wds get a bad name. People modifying them that have absolutly no idea what they are doing.
plowy wrote:on the above pitcure is a homemade version of it
its the yellow bar that pivots in the middle and connects to the front of the radius arms were it usually bolts onto the diff [cut front radius bolt mounting off diff and connect x link ]
it allows the diff housing to move without the radius arms restricting movement and allow greater flex ,
with out it the radius arms don't allow the diff to move and restrains any movement
hope that makes sence
Ok, I think I'm on the same page. There's guys here in the States that wheel 80's with one of the forward bolts removed. Sounds like a similar principal, only the X-link retains the strength lost by removing one of the front bolts.
Is the pivot that's attached to the axle similar in function to the Rover frame-side control arm mounts or is it more like a single plane pivot (rotation only)?
Looking at the pic of the Patrol it looks as though the link would help force articulation. As the right side raises the pivot on the axle forces the left side down. Did I just have a light bulb moment?
plowy wrote:on the above pitcure is a homemade version of it
its the yellow bar that pivots in the middle and connects to the front of the radius arms were it usually bolts onto the diff [cut front radius bolt mounting off diff and connect x link ]
Ok, I think I'm on the same page. There's guys here in the States that wheel 80's with one of the forward bolts removed. Sounds like a similar principal, only the X-link retains the strength lost by removing one of the front bolts.
Is the pivot that's attached to the axle similar in function to the Rover frame-side control arm mounts or is it more like a single plane pivot (rotation only)?
Looking at the pic of the Patrol it looks as though the link would help force articulation. As the right side raises the pivot on the axle forces the left side down. Did I just have a light bulb moment?
Also looks like a means to correct castor.
it allows the diff housing to move without the radius arms restricting movement and allow greater flex ,
with out it the radius arms don't allow the diff to move and restrains any movement
Hey Mick, just a quick one I have 4inch springs waiting for me to fit them to my 80, wondering on what castor correction you have got set up and how it works with the x-link. Keen to do the x-link but gotta get this bit sorted out first.
Also when you quoted,
crankys got a 7 and crankys running 820mm shocks.
ive got a four and im running 736mm shocks
Were you talking about the fully extended length of the shock, just so I can compare the length to mine to see if its worth getting the x-link wth my shocks, only 6 months old now, for a 6inch lift but.
GQ4.8coilcab wrote:
wander how long that is going to last
not as strong as dobbins
Why not hold a gun to your head and pull the trigger, atleast ya know the chance of dyeing straight away is 100%, unlike driving the above POS.
That is a very poor example of engineering, just another muppet driving a nail into the modified 4wd coffin.........
Ben
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Struddy wrote:Hey Mick, just a quick one I have 4inch springs waiting for me to fit them to my 80, wondering on what castor correction you have got set up and how it works with the x-link. Keen to do the x-link but gotta get this bit sorted out first.
Also when you quoted,
crankys got a 7 and crankys running 820mm shocks.
ive got a four and im running 736mm shocks
Were you talking about the fully extended length of the shock, just so I can compare the length to mine to see if its worth getting the x-link wth my shocks, only 6 months old now, for a 6inch lift but.
Cheers
Struddy
pm sent and yes was talking open length
cheers mick
Prof,
Thinking about the idea. It just concerns me to have more "stuff" out in front of the axle to smack into rocks. Whose your rep here stateside (Christo)? Fill me in on the details.
I'd like to do a 3 link but I just don't have time and a place to hook up a welder in our apartment garage. I realize this isn't bolt-on but there isn't a tone a welding and I can have a buddy zap it on.
Prof,
Thinking about the idea. It just concerns me to have more "stuff" out in front of the axle to smack into rocks. Whose your rep here stateside (Christo)? Fill me in on the details.
I'd like to do a 3 link but I just don't have time and a place to hook up a welder in our apartment garage. I realize this isn't bolt-on but there isn't a tone a welding and I can have a buddy zap it on.
Cheers
To easy. the Xlink helps protect the diff and takes a good hit you can flex over the rock and not hit it.
there isn't alot of welding on the diff for the Xlink talks about 1 to 2 hours to fit.
as for contact there is a few options will fill you in soon. we can deliver directly to you and others but an outlet will be better for us
mud4b wrote:as asked before, what do you do with castor correction?
i just got another 80 sahara td and want one of these, thinking of going a 5" lift or a 4" lift with body lift..
but how does the castor work? obviously not castor plates?
i guess cranky accounted for it in his arm flip? but im not sure if i could be stuffed doing this.
also will it fit the sahara front diff with a factory locker as i know the housing is slightly different?
cheers mark..
Mark, from what i read in the 4WD Monthly write up... you unbolt the front radius arm bolts, remove the front part of the radius arm bracket, get the X-Link in position, fix up your caster with an anglo-meter etc... meanwhlie while your rotating the diff, the X-Link bracket moves into the location that will when welded on, provide your castor correction, and then making sure everything is ok.. you burn it on...
That is the general idea i got... Chad/Glenn may have something more technical for you...
Kinda the same as a castor plate etc, just allows you to rotate the front of the diff upwards.
light bulb moment? 
