Hi all out there
Before i tackle this little project of mine compliments of letting a friend borrow my car (like that will ever happen again lol)what i need to know is there anything that i should beware of when pulling the motor out and apart its a 94 mdl 2.5 TDI auto..What has happened is it blew a heater hose and it i would say it has been cooked it still starts but only barely runs and its blowing water everywhere out of the radiator..there is no water or fuel in the oil and the oil does not seem to be burnt at all..
Any help is appreciated
thanks in advance guys and gals
Russ
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Diesel Discovery Engine Rebuild
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first thing i would do is remove oil filter and drain and cut it open (hacksaw)<hold upside down to do this>
then cut the paper away from yhe steel part of the filter and squash in vice to squeeze the oil fro the paper and look for metal ie alloy >pistons
steel > bore/rings/crank
copper > bearings
to see what is actually stuffed it could be a warped head or stuffed gasket and the rest is fine
when head is off look for verticle grooves in bores which would indicate a grabed piston
hope this helps
al (cooter)
then cut the paper away from yhe steel part of the filter and squash in vice to squeeze the oil fro the paper and look for metal ie alloy >pistons
steel > bore/rings/crank
copper > bearings
to see what is actually stuffed it could be a warped head or stuffed gasket and the rest is fine
when head is off look for verticle grooves in bores which would indicate a grabed piston
hope this helps
al (cooter)
http://www.4wdaction.com.au/shed/index.php?id=1097&im=1
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Get the head checked out, if they overheat badly you will need to replace it (appro. $1200- $2500) you will need to replace the head bolts as they stretch when cooked. Do the cam belt and ALL the gaskets while its apart .
Saddle up tonto, its the not so loanrangie! . 98 TDI DISCO lightly modded with more to come.
I'd suggest using a cheap can opener for this if you plan to do it - works a treat, and doesn't create any metal shavings (saves you trying to hold it upside down while you cut it)first thing i would do is remove oil filter and drain and cut it open (hacksaw)<hold upside down to do this>
I'd be a little surprised if the motor was stuffed, unless he drove it for ages with no water in it. It is however, as loanrangie said, common for the heads to fail - badly. Get a quote on a new head before you start, as I'd say its more than a slight chance that it will be cactus, and you may want to look at other options.
Also, its entirely possible to remove the head without removing anything more than the intake and exhaust manifolds (and a couple of coolant hoses etc), so when you pull it apart, I'd start by removing the head, then look in the bores etc and go from there - unless you are really keen to just fully rebuild it.
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
Thanks heaps fpr the replies guys much appreciated..Will get a quote for a new head tomorrow and see where that leads me..Im hopeing that its only the head and nothing else t major dont really feel like doing a full engine rebuild on what was a perfectly good motor welll heres hopeing that its all ok in there
Thanks again
Russ
Thanks again
Russ
Ok well got the head off and big thanks to Rangingrover for the little bit of advice about not having to take all the other crap off to remove the head saved me heaps of time ..Dosent look to be anything to major gone wrong apart from a badly blown headgasket between 2 and 3..will be getting the head pressure tested tomorrow if the shop can do it so heres hopeing that its only a head gasket and a few hoses to do..
Cheers Russ
Cheers Russ
I have heard that parts of the rover tdi head can get soft when badly overheated. If this happens they can have repeated gasket probs because head bolt tension drops where it is soft.
Rover state that the head can not be resurfaced, however I am not alone in doing this.
Note the number of holes in the old gasket, near the edge at no3 cyl. The number of holes indicates the thickness of the head gasket, which is determined by the distance that the pistons protrude above the deck of the block. You will need a replacement of the same thickness.
Replace the head bolts. You will need an angle indicator to tension the bolts.
Rover state that the head can not be resurfaced, however I am not alone in doing this.
Note the number of holes in the old gasket, near the edge at no3 cyl. The number of holes indicates the thickness of the head gasket, which is determined by the distance that the pistons protrude above the deck of the block. You will need a replacement of the same thickness.
Replace the head bolts. You will need an angle indicator to tension the bolts.
John
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