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RoadNazi wrote:Cheers Rick, your economy is not too bad after these mods....at least your getting some fun out of your engine for similar consumption. Probably you have just made the engine more efficient.
RN
Yeah i think i may have as it has to work alot less becuase the turbo helps out. I just need to sort out a second gas tank to stop me worrying about running out of gas all the time. That way i can run my 90L tank to empty and then switch to the other tank and go to a servo and get my KMS worth no just using say 60L worth and then go to a servo being on the same side.
It may be illegal to double your power output, but power won't decapitate you or turn your head into a bonnet emblem
All i said was to try it and see if it helps. It takes 5 minutes to put a spacer and 5 minutes to take it out when your done. Also i would like to see pics of a patrol where the front is crushed all the way in enough for the bonnet to come through the front window. Its not gonna happen!!! And if you hit hard enough for it to happen you would be dead from the inpact. The bonnet would bend befor the 4 bolts sheared.
just been going through this and then seen the video.
Had some questions...
1-4.2 diesel motor, converted to LPG gas, is this diesel motor still working like how a normal diesel motor would work or is it now working like a petrol motor?
Seeing as a lot of the posts seem to be treating the motor as if it was like a petrol motor rather than a diesel.
2- do you bother to check for EGT's anymore or not fussed seeing as your racing right up to the upper end for the motor rev range.
[quote="zagan"]just been going through this and then seen the video.
Had some questions...
1-4.2 diesel motor, converted to LPG gas, is this diesel motor still working like how a normal diesel motor would work or is it now working like a petrol motor?
Seeing as a lot of the posts seem to be treating the motor as if it was like a petrol motor rather than a diesel.
Zac Zec wrote:It is fine, but power comes on harder, you can run more timing generally which = MORE POWER . There is nothing to loose and EVERYTHING to gain
Yeah but when ur not on boost doesn't the car run like shit?
Zac Zec wrote:It is fine, but power comes on harder, you can run more timing generally which = MORE POWER . There is nothing to loose and EVERYTHING to gain
Yeah but when ur not on boost doesn't the car run like shit?
Rick.
If you lower the compression, yes you will loose off boost power. For a 4wd aplication, where you want power accross your revs, not just a huge top end hit like in a dyno Queen. 8.5:1 would be fine compression as long as the bottom end is strong, and you have it tuned PROPERLY!!
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Zac Zec wrote:It is fine, but power comes on harder, you can run more timing generally which = MORE POWER . There is nothing to loose and EVERYTHING to gain
Yeah but when ur not on boost doesn't the car run like shit?
Rick.
it wont run like shit, it will just have no power
origional comp is plenty low enough
JEs
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
Zac Zec wrote:It is fine, but power comes on harder, you can run more timing generally which = MORE POWER . There is nothing to loose and EVERYTHING to gain
Yeah but when ur not on boost doesn't the car run like shit?
Rick.
it wont run like shit, it will just have no power
origional comp is plenty low enough
JEs
Thanks mate that's what i thought..
I'm going to fit a front mount before any more psi is put into it and i might only go to 12psi not sure just wanna see how well a single converter goes as i don't wanna run twin converters at this stage.
Can u get a tune that will increase the psi untill my converter can't supply enough LPG to the engine and then back it off a tiny bit so it doesn't run lean or anything but using every bit of the converter up?
Zac Zec wrote:It is fine, but power comes on harder, you can run more timing generally which = MORE POWER . There is nothing to loose and EVERYTHING to gain
Yeah but when ur not on boost doesn't the car run like shit?
Rick.
it wont run like shit, it will just have no power
origional comp is plenty low enough
JEs
It will have no less power off boost than b4(well you wont notice the difference. F all diiferent than standard). Please your self mate at the end of the day . Sometimes you just have to do things and find out the hard way. Most people dont tell you the whole truth about stuff because no one wants to give up there little secrets that they have either paid good money for or found out by trial and error themselves. Thats the sad truth. And mate im the same
Do as you wish mate and dont knock it till youve tryed it.
Zac Zec wrote:It is fine, but power comes on harder, you can run more timing generally which = MORE POWER . There is nothing to loose and EVERYTHING to gain
Yeah but when ur not on boost doesn't the car run like shit?
Rick.
it wont run like shit, it will just have no power
origional comp is plenty low enough
JEs
It will have no less power off boost than b4(well you wont notice the difference. F all diiferent than standard). Please your self mate at the end of the day . Sometimes you just have to do things and find out the hard way. Most people dont tell you the whole truth about stuff because no one wants to give up there little secrets that they have either paid good money for or found out by trial and error themselves. Thats the sad truth. And mate im the same
Do as you wish mate and dont knock it till youve tryed it.
Cheers
bud
May i ask how u decomped ur motor? Thicker copper head gasket or something?
When you were on the hill and it would not start was the gas tank half empty ?
sounds like the gas pick up is in the wrong spot.
You said timing was 20 deg at idle, what about 3000-3500 eg full advance ? and how much retard per pound.
These things all affect power, and the boost level.
daily driver 13.5 1/4 mile
street car 506 rw kw
race car 9.7 1/4 mile
Power by CVE
Zac Zec wrote:It is fine, but power comes on harder, you can run more timing generally which = MORE POWER . There is nothing to loose and EVERYTHING to gain
Yeah but when ur not on boost doesn't the car run like shit?
Rick.
it wont run like shit, it will just have no power
origional comp is plenty low enough
JEs
It will have no less power off boost than b4(well you wont notice the difference. F all diiferent than standard). Please your self mate at the end of the day . Sometimes you just have to do things and find out the hard way. Most people dont tell you the whole truth about stuff because no one wants to give up there little secrets that they have either paid good money for or found out by trial and error themselves. Thats the sad truth. And mate im the same
Do as you wish mate and dont knock it till youve tryed it.
hi mate,
sorry but you can deny it all you want, if you LOWER the comp in a engine with already LOW comp you are going to be a little more gutless compared to before off boost. This is no secret, its basic engine knowledge.
lower the comp if you wanto run heaps more boost to gain even better hp numbers on boost , simple as that. but you will loose off boost performace.
Cheers,
JEs
ATTACH BROKEN TOYOTA HERE--->
DUCATI <-----Worlds best warning label
v8capri wrote:When you were on the hill and it would not start was the gas tank half empty ?
sounds like the gas pick up is in the wrong spot.
You said timing was 20 deg at idle, what about 3000-3500 eg full advance ? and how much retard per pound.
These things all affect power, and the boost level.
Hey mate
Yeah what happened was it was there idling waitting for this car to go past then when i went to acclerate it stalled then when i went to start it with the loud pedal a bit wouldn't start but soon as i took my foot off the acclrateor it kinda started then soon as u touch the acclerator band stalled again so i rolled down to the bottom of the drive way and just spun all the way to the top on about 3000rpm his mum wasn't to happy about the wheelie i was doing on the dirt driveway..
Pretty happy with the car now going to mod the airbox big time this weekend and get all that sorted and i'm going to go to Toyota and get some hub oil and fix the clutch fan so when it comes on it will suck birds in
Cheers
Rick.
Testing timming at 3500rpm do i just get someone to hold that rev while i time light it?
I would say no because your timing is changed with boost. Your engine will not be boosting properly if some1 is just sitting their reving the engine compared to when your driving and its under load.
[quote="Mulisha"]Pretty happy with the car now going to mod the airbox big time this weekend and get all that sorted and i'm going to go to Toyota and get some hub oil and fix the clutch fan so when it comes on it will suck birds in
Cheers
Rick.
Mate, youve spent some serious coin on your car already. Are you sure you want to stuff around refilling your viscous hub ? Especially if you havent done it before.
I know I wouldnt want a turboed engine overheating.
Mulisha wrote:Pretty happy with the car now going to mod the airbox big time this weekend and get all that sorted and i'm going to go to Toyota and get some hub oil and fix the clutch fan so when it comes on it will suck birds in
Cheers
Rick.
Mate, youve spent some serious coin on your car already. Are you sure you want to stuff around refilling your viscous hub ? Especially if you havent done it before.
I know I wouldnt want a turboed engine overheating.
What is that all ment to mean?
My car isn't overheating
The only reason i want to refill it becuase to either get my temps down lower or when up the beach try keep the temp down..
I'll see anyway over the weekend after doing how it all goes..
Zac Zec wrote:It is fine, but power comes on harder, you can run more timing generally which = MORE POWER . There is nothing to loose and EVERYTHING to gain
Yeah but when ur not on boost doesn't the car run like shit?
Rick.
it wont run like shit, it will just have no power
origional comp is plenty low enough
JEs
It will have no less power off boost than b4(well you wont notice the difference. F all diiferent than standard). Please your self mate at the end of the day . Sometimes you just have to do things and find out the hard way. Most people dont tell you the whole truth about stuff because no one wants to give up there little secrets that they have either paid good money for or found out by trial and error themselves. Thats the sad truth. And mate im the same
Do as you wish mate and dont knock it till youve tryed it.
hi mate,
sorry but you can deny it all you want, if you LOWER the comp in a engine with already LOW comp you are going to be a little more gutless compared to before off boost. This is no secret, its basic engine knowledge.
lower the comp if you wanto run heaps more boost to gain even better hp numbers on boost , simple as that. but you will loose off boost performace.
Cheers,
JEs
You said it your self it will be a LITTLE more gutless. Not worth worrying about for the gain that you can potentially get. If it is set up right then the LITTLE loss will be insignificant.
Other perspectives are always good.
Have you done it to a TB42? What do you think?
zagan wrote:just been going through this and then seen the video.
Had some questions...
1-4.2 diesel motor, converted to LPG gas, is this diesel motor still working like how a normal diesel motor would work or is it now working like a petrol motor?
Seeing as a lot of the posts seem to be treating the motor as if it was like a petrol motor rather than a diesel.
That's because it is a petrol
Ah I see... my understanding was it being a deisel turbo'd then converted to LPG.
Some stats and power cruves on the standard engine.
Jimbo wrote:I would say no because your timing is changed with boost. Your engine will not be boosting properly if some1 is just sitting their reving the engine compared to when your driving and its under load.
well you want to know what timing it has at 3500 rpm, and then you can deduct the amount of retard that the msd is giving it.
So yes, have a mate hold the revs at say 3500 in nuetral, and put a timing light on it, or whatever revs the timing stops advancing ( increasing )
at 3500 rpm in nuetral it will have 0 boost.
daily driver 13.5 1/4 mile
street car 506 rw kw
race car 9.7 1/4 mile
Power by CVE
Well i didn't get around to timming it but i thought i wouldn't be able to see what timming it had at 3500rpm anyway becuase my timming thing on the car only goes to 20deg and at idle it's at 22 deg i'm gussing by were it is.
I filled up my clucth fan hub thing with some silcon oil and god it's bloody loud as hell i could hear a bit of BOV when a flight rev now all i can hear is cyclone harry under the bonnet like 400kmh winds under there
Made up a heat shield with some stainless as well come up well and i can't fit a VT air box
I'm either going to try make my own filter box or going to see if a GU air box will fit becuase that would be my best option as i have a shit loud of room now behind my headlight!
A few things that i think i might ask that seem a little werid...
When u start the car dead cold or hot if u touch the throttle when starting the car it won't start only if u don't touch the throttle just seemed werid u can't touch it
it may be a flood clear set up like a aftermarket ecu, when you touch the throttle it goes into flood clear mode and wont inject petrol for a set time.
zd30 air box, it bolts straight in! no drilling holes.It lines up to the snorkel aswell. I think they are the same as the gu td42t air box which looks like it will fit up also.