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hey all,
looking at drivng my beast about 500 k`s away for easter but dont trust the front dif at hwy speeds due to excessive backlash,
Is it possible to simply take the front shaft out and run on the road with the centre diff locked ??? Will this cause me any problems ???
MUD400 wrote:hey all,
looking at drivng my beast about 500 k`s away for easter but dont trust the front dif at hwy speeds due to excessive backlash,
Is it possible to simply take the front shaft out and run on the road with the centre diff locked ??? Will this cause me any problems ???
1. Yes
2. No
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
i ran my fender for a few weeks without the front prop shaft after doing a uni... got better speeds and better economy and able to spin the wheels off the lights... not bad for a 300tdi
[b]EVL44[/b] '89 LR Perentie 110
[b]Phoenix[/b] '66 LR 2/3 Hybrid
[b][size=150][url=http://www.GCLRO.com/]Gold Coast Land Rover Owners[/url][/size][/b]
ran mine for ages after smashing front shaft no dramas handled a bit looser but suited me better that way
http://www.4wdaction.com.au/shed/index.php?id=1097&im=1
[quote="squik"]He He... every time I turn off my protection my box gets slammed with spam....
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a little off topic. Dyno'ing a 93 rangie with a VCU on a 2 wheel dyno is it as simple as removing the front drive shaft ala LT230 or is there more too it?
[quote="Lucus"]a little off topic. Dyno'ing a 93 rangie with a VCU on a 2 wheel dyno is it as simple as removing the front drive shaft ala LT230 or is there more too it?
cheers
Luke[/quote]
No as the VCU will lock and this may cause issues. There are plenty of 4wd dynos around so why not use one of them.
I had the same thought Lucus, but was advised (although L230 and rear maxi equipped), that there was a fair chance of the crownwheel shattering if run up hard on a 2wd dyno with a 4.6. I have a good reason to trust my source on this one, so I'd just bite the bullet and go the 4 wheel dyno. I intend to do that once I have my megasquirt dialed in pretty well, have a target figure of 120something kilowatts at the wheels to beat (should be easy, my base setup is better than the auto 4.6 disco with motec that laid that down). Will be interested to know what you put down.
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
Haha not really interested in what i puts down...I just want to make sure its got a good safe tune. if you wanna put down good number take those big a$$ tires off and put some 28" on it...
my daily driver puts down 350rwkw and almost 900nm of torque so i dont need the range to make big hp....
RangingRover wrote:I had the same thought Lucus, but was advised (although L230 and rear maxi equipped), that there was a fair chance of the crownwheel shattering if run up hard on a 2wd dyno with a 4.6. I have a good reason to trust my source on this one, so I'd just bite the bullet and go the 4 wheel dyno. I intend to do that once I have my megasquirt dialed in pretty well, have a target figure of 120something kilowatts at the wheels to beat (should be easy, my base setup is better than the auto 4.6 disco with motec that laid that down). Will be interested to know what you put down.
It WILL be fine without the front shaft in on the dyno
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
I just want to make sure its got a good safe tune. if you wanna put down good number take those big a$$ tires off and put some 28" on it...
Lol - surprisingly, it feels like it goes better with the 34s on than with my 32 inch roadies on it - probably because its a bit smoother. But I'd still love to put some stock size rubber on it for a day, I reckon that'd be damn scary, considering it melts 32s pretty easy. The car that put down 120 atw was on very similar size rubber to my road tyres, so it should be even. I wonder though, if I did a dyno run in 3rd whether it would cancel out the effect on gearing of the 32s? Something to calculate another day...
It WILL be fine without the front shaft in on the dyno Wink
Have you done this fairly often? I'm very tempted to do a power run or two on my mates dyno, just because it'd be free.... how comparable are the figures to a 4wd dyno?
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
RangingRover wrote:I had the same thought Lucus, but was advised (although L230 and rear maxi equipped), that there was a fair chance of the crownwheel shattering if run up hard on a 2wd dyno with a 4.6.
The stress on your crownwheel is directly related to driveshaft torque.
Driveshaft torque is the reciprocal (opposite) of your gear ratio.
A dyno run in a 1:1 gear means your engine puts about 20 times less torque and stress on the diffs than climbing a hill in low-low.
It WILL be fine without the front shaft in on the dyno Wink
Have you done this fairly often? I'm very tempted to do a power run or two on my mates dyno, just because it'd be free.... how comparable are the figures to a 4wd dyno?
Been ran with factory 5l
Turbo's stock management
then tuned with aftermarket
then tuned to new 351
then retuned with 351
So yea, I think you'll be fine
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
