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I am starting to assemble the accessories on my engine, as this build has been going on for ages, not all parts have been found.....yet
Could any one help me with pics of their pulleys on a 3.9 in a range rover, non serpintine belt, the sparky is starting the new wiring loom next week and has asked if i will run 2 alternators? I would love to but i am having enough trouble fitting the bosch to the engine now without having to worry about how to install another one. That is unless any of you guys can point me in the right direction. If any one has a set of pulleys or accessories for sale please let me know as i would like to finally get this thing going and start going on trips with some of you.
The manifold is off to the engineer for its final mods so i'll post more pics when there is something to see
Cheers
Steve
86 Rangie, F+R 4:11 Maxi, 35 Pedes, 6 point cage, Comp High Mount
Don't have a 3.9, and not sure if the 3.5 is the same pulley set up but we replaced the stupidly expensive Rover ones with Commodore VL units (new at Bursons for about 25 dollars each) and keep a couple of bearings (seven dollars each) in the tool box for spares when they crap out.
You can't easily replace the bearing centres in the Rover unit whereas the VL ones just press out. We also did the same on Yota 60 series 2H diesel engine thereby avoiding a visit to the Bank Manager. You just need to press out the shaft from the Rvr mounting arm and bolt in the VL unit making sure it is a tight fit (maybe we drilled/die ground it out the hole a bit, I can't remember)
So far we have replaced one of the Dunnydore bearings once in 1.5 years. The Gen Rover ones lasted only a couple of months before that due to water and mud damage etc May be worth a thought......
Nice gq swb ute chop with a huffer for the good times
My main problem is knowing what accesories line up with what pulleys as the engine has never been complete. I am organising a new 130amp alternator but the layout and install is the problem.
Cheers
Steve
86 Rangie, F+R 4:11 Maxi, 35 Pedes, 6 point cage, Comp High Mount
Schuler send/PM me your email address and I will forward a JPEG of my second alternator install.
It also shows some of the pulleys. On my car the crank pulley has 2 sheaves and the waterpump 2 , the aircon 2 and the PS pump 2.
The two sheave pulley on the water pump. Front goes to Crank (front) and has an idler, and the rear is for the aircon/new alternator and has idler. The rear sheave belt does not go to the crank pulley, only to the aircon.
The aircon front sheave is not used.
Front on crank = to water pump front sheave only with idler.
Rear on crank = to PS pump pulley rear sheave only.
Alternator from PS pump front pulley sheave only.(tiny little belt)
Hope this helps
Regards Philip A
I'm interested in how your second alt is wired up. Are you using 2 alts with two completely separate batteries? Reason for asking is that I have an impending amp shortage if I install a stereo amp that I have. Running twin thermos and all the usual accessories (no winch). Have dual battery and isolator set up running off 60 amp Bosch alt and am wondering whether to change to a 110 odd amp alt, or install a second 50 amp Bosch that I have lying around.
Yes, have a separate 95AH AGM battery.
All That is needed is a separate exciter light, usually with a 2 amp bulb, but this depends on the exciter requirement of the alternator.
So I have a 12 volt feed via a relay triggered from ign on power, which goes from the second battery to the alternator via the exciter lamp, which I have down next to the radio.
I guess I was really trying to ask whether it would be better to have one big alt and two batteries with an isolator, or two alts and two separate batteries. Not running a fridge, but may do in future. Would it be reasonable (sensible?) to have some stuff (like big music and driving lights and maybe one thermo) coming off one alt/battery and all other stuff coming off other alt/battery.
The twin fake Ford thermo set up is fantastic (350 Chev behind stock RR radiator - never goes over half on the temp guage even in extremes) but sucks amps with current set up (at night -cold, dl's on, wipers on, lights on, heater fan on, one thermo going. Not sure which way to go.
I may have different priorities to you.
I also had a second alternator lying around. I plan to go to remote areas and having a second alternator is good insurance with an automatic,as if your alternator gives up you cannot jump start anauto.
Also I have seen many battery controllers fail in many different ways. A friend had a solonoid, as simple as they come, and the thing shorted to signal wire and burnt out his cruiser's wiring!!. I immediately put a fuse on mine.
Having qualified all that, yes I think its good to have two. I run my spots from the second alternator. My Magneto marelli only lasted 80K, and I think it was the strain of running flat out with the aircon, spots and high amp headlights. The 3.9 is one of very few cars that you can fit a second alternator to.
When you run everything off one , all the connections have to be perfect.
I once put in a new Hitachi 65 amp, and because I had a bad solder joint on the output wire, it melted all the field connections under spots, high beam and aircon, and they dropped into the armature. Not a pretty sight.
That also causes me to only crimp high amp connections.LOL
Experience is a wonderful teacher.
Regards Philip A
I guess the biggest concern with day to day stuff was alt failure and not being able to run the thermo fans (in the middle of nowhere). Am going to twin alts to the two separate batteries and ditching the isolator.
