After saving a little spare cash each month for a rather special little project I finaly have just above enough.
Presently driving LJ70 with manual 2LT, that is just dying for a new lease of life.
My 2 half cut choices are either the 1KZ-te or the 13BT. Going for manual and not interested in auto.
The 1KZ is lighter than the 13BT and the new dash would be good. The 13BT is heavy, but no problem for the coils springs I have. Both engines have similiar torque and hp.
Any ideas gents? Ohh and ladies??
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Half Cut time for my LJ70
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Direct injection, need i say moregotoy wrote:A 13bt can be converted into a 14bt, the block is the same.
The power of a 1KZ is the same as the 13bt, so whats the advantage of 13/14bt? 13/14bt is 70kg++ heavier than 1KZ.
My main concern about a 13/14bt is its going to be at least 10yrs older than a 1KZ.
An alloy head on a diesel engine with a turbo hanging off the side is a stupid idea.Ally heads crack ,bend ,warp and go soft on 2wd cars that are only running up and down the highway.What happens when your in low 1st for hours on end on a hot day up in the hill's.
If diesels needed ally heads every truck in the country would have one.I've seen plenty of 1kz's with cracked head's but not a lot of B series engines.
Any way that's my 2 bob's worth.
If diesels needed ally heads every truck in the country would have one.I've seen plenty of 1kz's with cracked head's but not a lot of B series engines.
Any way that's my 2 bob's worth.
Goanna Off Road, Out the back in the shed.
a B motor is too heavy to put into the front of a bundera. it can be done but it will always feel nose heavy even with the "right" springs in it. It also won't bolt to your gearbox so you will have to get a front cut or engine/gearbox combo from the wrecker. the engine mounts won't line up and the hole in the floor for the shifters will be in the wrong place.
the 1KZ is a fairly rubbishy motor, and you will need to graft the instrument cluster from the donor into your vehicle as well as untangling and splicing in the wiring harness. as others have said, indirect injection is poo, alloy head is poo, they are a smooth, quiet motor with decent power and torque but they are NOT known for long life and if you buy a "low km" import job, chances are it has never had an oil change and is full of sooty goo.
suggestion #1: find a vehicle worth spending the money on. This may be offensive to you (it sure is to me, I love bundys) but the chassis and drivetrain are sot strong enough to sustain a significant power upgrade especially considering the disproportionate weight of a bundy. Drive the 2L-T to death, then let it go.
suggestion #2: if you must re-engine, a 3L or 5L will bolt straight in. with an aftermarket or custom turbo you will have near 1KZ-TE performance with arguably better reliability, at a reduced total conversion cost. note that the actual dollars you shell out on such a combo might be higher than a 1KZ-TE however it is all bolt together and there's no fiddly electronics to complicate things - it could be achieved in a weekend by a determined couple of people.
suggestion #3: find a vehicle with the engine you want, already in it. a 13B-T powered middy is a great little truck and with a few $ spend on an intercooler and fresh suspension, is plenty powerful and comfy.
hope this is of some help, and we won't see your truck in the for sale section as 'unfinished project - bargain'!
cheers
DD
the 1KZ is a fairly rubbishy motor, and you will need to graft the instrument cluster from the donor into your vehicle as well as untangling and splicing in the wiring harness. as others have said, indirect injection is poo, alloy head is poo, they are a smooth, quiet motor with decent power and torque but they are NOT known for long life and if you buy a "low km" import job, chances are it has never had an oil change and is full of sooty goo.
suggestion #1: find a vehicle worth spending the money on. This may be offensive to you (it sure is to me, I love bundys) but the chassis and drivetrain are sot strong enough to sustain a significant power upgrade especially considering the disproportionate weight of a bundy. Drive the 2L-T to death, then let it go.
suggestion #2: if you must re-engine, a 3L or 5L will bolt straight in. with an aftermarket or custom turbo you will have near 1KZ-TE performance with arguably better reliability, at a reduced total conversion cost. note that the actual dollars you shell out on such a combo might be higher than a 1KZ-TE however it is all bolt together and there's no fiddly electronics to complicate things - it could be achieved in a weekend by a determined couple of people.
suggestion #3: find a vehicle with the engine you want, already in it. a 13B-T powered middy is a great little truck and with a few $ spend on an intercooler and fresh suspension, is plenty powerful and comfy.
hope this is of some help, and we won't see your truck in the for sale section as 'unfinished project - bargain'!
cheers
DD
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DD,
Good advice.
I finaly went for a 1KZ-te half cut, manual version. The unit was very good.
Decided for 1KZ over 13Bt/14Bt mainly because of the weight factor. I hope I am not to be plagued by alloy heads or dodgey electronics. Actually, a 13Bt mechanical fuel pump is already in the pipe line.
Installation should be finished by August.
Good advice.
I finaly went for a 1KZ-te half cut, manual version. The unit was very good.
Decided for 1KZ over 13Bt/14Bt mainly because of the weight factor. I hope I am not to be plagued by alloy heads or dodgey electronics. Actually, a 13Bt mechanical fuel pump is already in the pipe line.
Installation should be finished by August.
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