195hp Tb42 Turbo ..

Post by **PGS 4WD** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 10:20 pm

I cant see the BOV in the picture at a glance, is that an e-bay turbo?? If so remove the air filter and see it there is any end float(thrust) back and forward on the compressor wheel, grab the center nut and push pull in and out, look for signs of fouling of the compressor wheel in the comp housing.
The exhaust manifold looks good whos that from?? I've built them in the past but it time consuming.
Joel

Post by **Mulisha** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 4:29 pm

Hi mate yeah sorry i need to take a newer pic that was before i got the BOV fitted.

The Turbo was sold to me as a Garrett To4e... I can check the shaft play but i hope it isn't the turbo

I brought a kit from CVE Peformance which has posted back a page and i got the BOV wastegate turbo and custom manifold and oil lines and few other things..

I've had a fair few people say to me is it a ebay turbo and i keep saying that it's a Garrett just hoping it is... As it doesn't have Garrett or anything of that written on it..

Thanks alot

Rick.

Website · Post by **GRINCH** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 6:17 pm

if it hasnt got garret written on it it wont be a garret

Post by **scorched** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 6:56 pm

nah ive seen garretts that look like yours dont worry about it.
Pretty sure your wastegate and blow off valve are tial

Post by **PGS 4WD** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 7:08 pm

With the Gasresearch and no intercooler tuning can be difficult at low rpm as boost is just starting, where the balance line is going into the intake pipe you will likely need to protrude the pipe and chamfer the end to increase the converter reference signal, and richen the mixture while lugging at lower rpm. I have found quite oftem with setups like your you require no metering rod, when the intercooler is fitted and the balance line is sourced between the cooler and the turbo there becomes a pressure differential that helps the syten richen faster and the carby jetting will be significantly different. can you get a dyno log of AFR or Lambda from low rpm to peak, I'll bet it starts really lean and progressivly richens. Chamfering the pickup for the balance pipe will fix this, make sure the open faced end is facing the incomong air stream of it will get worse.
Try taking the meterin rod out, it may be too fat up top but should improve the hole you feel at lower rpm.
Joel

Post by **v8capri** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 7:23 pm

This problem he talks of has just happened all of a sudden. so I don't believe it is a tuning issue, but more of a fault somewhere.
once that is sorted and it is running like it was before, then he can fine tune it, untill then he is just burning gas, or in his case, air !!

Post by **PGS 4WD** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 11:29 pm

I was under the impression the problem arose when the tyres were changed for larger ones, this effects engine load and rpm. The problem with the setup he has now is that it will be very lean at low rpm high load, made worse by the larger tyres possibly. Pm me if you want and I'll go into more detail, its something I've experienced many times before and I think is worth a shot , unfortunatly without A/F ratios its an educated guess based on previous experience.
Joel

Post by **Mulisha** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 7:08 am

Thanks guys I have been finishing work to late in the afternoon to go see the people who dyno'd my car

So i might get around there tommorow arvo maybe i hope

Here is that graph thing from when my car went on the dyno..

Thanks alot for ya help

Rick..

Also u were saying that with the extra load at low rpm might make it lean well how do i go about when towing a trailer or boat? Doesn't the same thing happen or is this different as it's part of the drivetrain?

I got a price for a ZD30 airbox .... $220 second hand

so i'm going to keep ringing around and hopefully come up with something a better then $220...

Cheers

Rick.

Post by **PGS 4WD** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 9:24 pm

That is a very believable dyno sheet, the correction factor is close to one a you'd expect. (check post re GU into GQ)
It is doing what I expected, it is too lean at low rpm, .97 lambda is too lean for wide open throttle mixture. I usually aim to have .88 lambda by the time the vehicle reaches its naturally aspirated power, in you case about 80 kw at 1900 rpm. This is because HP relates to heat. If you chamfer the pick up in the intake for the balance line like I described this will improve this.
(My experience is to not run LPG as rich as petrol in a turbo application under full boost as there is no benefit from the fuel vapourization cooling and the exhaust temps dont increse any from around .78 to .84, petrol will quite often be run as rich as .78, but thats up to the individual tuner.)
You will probably find the top end may richen up as well but I wouldnt be concerned, its unlikely to effect power as long as it on the lean side of .82.
Thats shown wide open throttle is lean at low rpm high load, what needs to be checked is the transient fuel around 1/4 to 3/4 pedal as most tuners dont realize the metering rod needs to be turned down in different portions to obtain the correct mixture throughout, see if you can get a power run at 1/2 throttle.
You are aiming for 1.00 to .98 at cruise up to 30 rwkw with progressive enrichment with increased throttle and load to .82-.84. Cruise is set with a jet but the cruise and main metering circuits overlap. don't go under a 2.0mm cruise jet(progression jet) as it can cause a flat spot on light throttle.
Joel

Post by **Mulisha** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 3:12 pm

Thanks alot mate for that

I still haven't taken the car there yet as i was busy as last week and they don't open Sat

I should see them this week for sure so i'll see what they say anyway..

Cheers

Rick.

Post by **Mulisha** » Fri May 25, 2007 11:00 pm

A bit of a update

Got a intercooler fitted and tunned to 15psi

206rwkw and 1500ft.lb

That power was made on 33's and my orginal 195rwhp was made on 31's..

Before the cooler and that on 33's made 152rwhp

I'm real happy with the car just gota get the gearbox out now and fit a new clucth so going to ring a few places tommorow becuase if i go over 2200rpm clucth just gets fryed and just revs the engine! Ask GU BUG

How hard is the gearbox to get out got quoted $600 to take it out then i gota get a custom clucth which is $600 so i wanna save some $$$ and might pull the gearbox out myself..

I'll get some pics up of the engine bay with the cooler and stuff tommorow ..

I new the standard clucth had no hope

Anything over 8psi bye bye clucth

If anyone knows of good clucth builders as i'm going to get custom made one becuase off the shelf ones i don't think will hold up.

Thanks everyone by the way for ya help along the way and will keep u posted..

Rick.

Post by **Mulisha** » Fri May 25, 2007 11:06 pm

Also tyred working out what NM tourqe i have and if i convetered it right do i have 2034nm tourqe

Thanks
Rick.

Post by **Jimbo** » Sat May 26, 2007 4:59 am

Hey those are great figures!!! Good to see its finally working for you. Just dont blow it up!!!!

Will be interested to see the pics of your cooler setup.

In terms of clutch i have an extreme outback clutch. They come in a heap of variations above standard with different pressure plates and clamping pressures. I think i paid around $350 (trade) for mine. I also paid some1 $350 to fit it and machine my flywheel.

Anyway let us know how it goes.

Jimmy

PS: From your graph i calculated your torque to be just over 650Nm which is still a great figure!!

Post by **vanbox** » Sat May 26, 2007 6:49 am

rick.

sounds good now. i take back what i said previous about your 195hp. then all the way down to 152. but now 270 odd is sounding like a weapon. ill have to catch up with you sometime and check it out. the red shorty u saw me in is now my comp truck, i just bought a gu ute.

look forward to trying to race you mate

oh, and pics of the intercooler would be great.

cheers

PAUL

Post by **raptorthumper** » Sat May 26, 2007 7:17 am

Well done Rick. That will be plenty of fun to drive when you sort out your clutch.

I'm probably going to do a manual conversion on mine after the auto blew up when i fitted my intercooler and upped the boost. I'm getting all the bits now. Obviously your clutch was holding for a while when they did the dyno run, but probably on gearchanges struggles heaps.

Post some pics and let us know what clutch you get.

Grant.

Website · Post by **GRINCH** » Sat May 26, 2007 8:47 am

go see crusin auto spares in nambour with your clutch, hes the only guy on the coast that knows what hes talking about. hes done heaps of big hp patrols

Post by **nzdarin** » Sun May 27, 2007 4:18 pm

raptorthumper wrote:

I'm probably going to do a manual conversion on mine after the auto blew up when i fitted my intercooler and upped the boost.

You'll hate a manual if you know how to drive an auto off road. It may cost a bit bit I'd get you auto rebuilt and modified a bit to handle extra HP and run it on Redline fluid. That is what I've done with mine and the engine tuner is expecting close to 300rwkw from my motor. (turboed Nissan 4.5 V8) Wholesale Automatic do a valve body that will handle 450kw (flywheel) so the power a TB45 can make should be easy.
Just my opinion though.

Post by **raptorthumper** » Sun May 27, 2007 5:41 pm

nzdarin wrote:
You'll hate a manual if you know how to drive an auto off road. It may cost a bit bit I'd get you auto rebuilt and modified a bit to handle extra HP and run it on Redline fluid. That is what I've done with mine and the engine tuner is expecting close to 300rwkw from my motor. (turboed Nissan 4.5 V8) Wholesale Automatic do a valve body that will handle 450kw (flywheel) so the power a TB45 can make should be easy.
Just my opinion though.

Yeah i agree with you. I like the Automatic, but reckon the Valve body upgrade is a definate must for turboed petrol engines, considering how slow and the amount of flaring gearchanges are as standard.

It was going to cost me over 3 grand for a full rebuild of auto and torque converter with the extreme valve body, and i can do a manual much cheaper.

I'm not selling the Auto just yet. Might rebuild it sometime down the track and refit.
I reckon i could buy a rebuild kit and reco it myself as i have rebuilt several manual transmissions. How hard can it be?

Post by **nzdarin** » Mon May 28, 2007 8:39 am

raptorthumper wrote:
nzdarin wrote:
You'll hate a manual if you know how to drive an auto off road. It may cost a bit bit I'd get you auto rebuilt and modified a bit to handle extra HP and run it on Redline fluid. That is what I've done with mine and the engine tuner is expecting close to 300rwkw from my motor. (turboed Nissan 4.5 V8) Wholesale Automatic do a valve body that will handle 450kw (flywheel) so the power a TB45 can make should be easy.
Just my opinion though.
Yeah i agree with you. I like the Automatic, but reckon the Valve body upgrade is a definate must for turboed petrol engines, considering how slow and the amount of flaring gearchanges are as standard.

It was going to cost me over 3 grand for a full rebuild of auto and torque converter with the extreme valve body, and i can do a manual much cheaper.

I'm not selling the Auto just yet. Might rebuild it sometime down the track and refit.
I reckon i could buy a rebuild kit and reco it myself as i have rebuilt several manual transmissions. How hard can it be?

How hard can it be!!!!! enuf said.

My auto has been put together with bits from the VH auto and the TD42 auto as they are the same basically. I had a shift kit fitted to the TD42 auto when I turboed that and they stoped all of the flairing. Take into account that my TD42 was running 21psi, intercooled etc. I will get one of Rodney's manual change valve bodies later this year (once the shock of the engine transplant has worn of my wife!), but in the mean time I'm using the maual shift conversion I used with the TD42. ie no TCU just relays and a TPS signal to control line pressure. My auto was stripped (when motor transplant was done) after 12months of winch comps with this setup and there was no signs of wear, heat etc, so I'm fairly confident it will be OK as it is for a while. I'll just take it easy on gear changes!!!!!!

Post by **Mulisha** » Sat Jun 16, 2007 10:43 am

Well i replaced my clucth and then to blow a headgasket last night

Well i hope it's just a head gasket..

Anwyway going to pull the head off and get it resurfaced exhaust ports cleaned up and new valves and get the seats ground or something.

Then put it back together and hope it doesn't blow up the weekend after..

*touch wood*

Cheers

Rick.

Website · Post by **GRINCH** » Sat Jun 16, 2007 11:37 am

another blown head by a chapman tune

make sure you use a factory one unless someone makes a metal headgasket for them. defintly get the head machined and mybe even get the block decked

Post by **Mulisha** » Sat Jun 16, 2007 3:08 pm

GRINCH wrote:another blown head by a chapman tune
make sure you use a factory one unless someone makes a metal headgasket for them. defintly get the head machined and mybe even get the block decked

Cheers bud

I'm getting the head machined for sure..

Then getting it pressure tested for leaks etc.

Not sure if the block needs decking i'm thinking of just cleaning it up nice.

While the head is off should i do valve springs or get my exhaust ports polished? I just don't want to put it back together when i could have spent a couple of hundred on getting some done and making it more reliable and stuff.

LOL It blew the gasket about 1 min from in a 100 zone.. Took off from a side street and spooled it thru the gears very hard .. flat to the floor and boy did it hook in

For some reason the front left heand body mount is making a werid noise like i broken it from the engine flex or something but i can't tighten the bolt it's self like it's seized or some crap..

Cheers

Rick.

Just hope i haven't done to much damage and i can afford to put it back on the black/dirt stuff.

Post by **shakes** » Sat Jun 16, 2007 5:14 pm

While the head is off should i do valve springs

DUDE FOR FUCKS SAKE, read posts that people put up. and for polishing it depends on who you talk to, definately get everything match ported. bigger valves etc if possible

Replace your engine mounts while the head is off, makes life alot easier. chances are you've also cracked you body mount.... at night lights, off carpet up get someone to shine a torch up/down and you'll see a glimmer, time to plate and weld

decking is cleaning the block up nice

Be carefull with the copper headgasket, quite often it is better to do 5 headgaskets per year than bend valve trains/rods/bigends from something smaller not giving way. I've never turbo'd a TB42 so someone more knowledgeable could help with that.

Post by **Mulisha** » Sat Jun 16, 2007 5:37 pm

at night lights, off carpet up get someone to shine a torch up/down and you'll see a glimmer, time to plate and weld

What did that all mean

Thanks for the other info though

Rick.

Post by **shakes** » Sat Jun 16, 2007 6:50 pm

at night lights, off carpet up get someone to shine a torch up/down and you'll see a glimmer, time to plate and weld

What did that all mean

i just re-read it and being half cut then even worse now it still doesnt make sense....

At night, with no light around. lift your carpet up and shine a torch up from underneath while looking from from the inside of your floor(AND vica versa), you'll most likely see a crack in the floor pan around the actual mount itself. pretty common in GQ's

Post by **Zac Zec** » Sat Jun 16, 2007 7:35 pm

Sounds to me like you got a tune for the wank of the power figures and not reliability

dont run a copper gasket unless you fire ring the head. $$$$$$
I would run a genuine gasket

Post by **Mulisha** » Sat Jun 16, 2007 9:23 pm

shakes wrote:
at night lights, off carpet up get someone to shine a torch up/down and you'll see a glimmer, time to plate and weld

What did that all mean
i just re-read it and being half cut then even worse now it still doesnt make sense....

At night, with no light around. lift your carpet up and shine a torch up from underneath while looking from from the inside of your floor(AND vica versa), you'll most likely see a crack in the floor pan around the actual mount itself. pretty common in GQ's

Thanks mate

I might have a look at that but the one i thought that was making the noise was the mounts right at the front of the car just behind the bullbar u can see the mountng rubber it's self move.

Zac Zec wrote:Sounds to me like you got a tune for the wank of the power figures and not reliability
dont run a copper gasket unless you fire ring the head. $$$$$$
I would run a genuine gasket

Yeah plan on running a genuine gasket and wdf is with the wank power ? Was tunned for 14.5 psi so i don't see this sh1t ur farking going on about ..

Rick.

Post by **JemmyBubbles** » Sat Jun 16, 2007 10:13 pm

Pictures of you lighting it up on tar plz

Website · Post by **GRINCH** » Sun Jun 17, 2007 9:50 am

Zac Zec wrote:Sounds to me like you got a tune for the wank of the power figures and not reliability
dont run a copper gasket unless you fire ring the head. $$$$$$
I would run a genuine gasket

thats what chapmans do, i got mine done there, to start with instead of tuning it to 35's like i asked they swapped them with 31's so the loading wasnt what it should be. they wound the timming advance up so high everytime you get to a slight rise it pings its tits off. and the fuel economy

it was so rich i was getting 3km/l, we wound the fuel back and now getting about 6km/l with it still on the rich side. thats all after i asked for a reliable and fuel efficent tune. the worst bit is they are the only ones on the coast with some idea of what they are doing

Post by **Zac Zec** » Sun Jun 17, 2007 4:59 pm

Yeah plan on running a genuine gasket and wdf is with the wank power ? Was tunned for 14.5 psi so i don't see this sh1t ur farking going on about ..

Rick.[/quote]

Pretty much what GRINCH said. That is what im "farking going on about".

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