just received my female threaded tie-rod ends (TE135R & TE135L) so that i can knock out an adjustable drag link.
i assume the factory one is just thin walled Mild Steel - so the one i'm going to make could be made out of 30mm 1045 solid and be miles ahead.
any thoughts?
cheers
OONDY
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Drag Link Material
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Drag Link Material
BIG O 4X4 - 4WD SUSPENSION AND ACCESSORIES.
PH: 0438 870 856 EMAIL: sales@bigo4x4.com.au WEB: www.bigo4x4.com.au
Internet Specials: 2" Kits from $690 Patrol 3-6" kits from $2000
PH: 0438 870 856 EMAIL: sales@bigo4x4.com.au WEB: www.bigo4x4.com.au
Internet Specials: 2" Kits from $690 Patrol 3-6" kits from $2000
or even try some hollowbar. 32mm od with a 10mm wall or 8mm wall thickness. this way you can tap the thread strait into it and it is strong.
i used brightbar for my last one but was told if hit the right way it can shatter.
i used brightbar for my last one but was told if hit the right way it can shatter.
Mud4b/ OPT, Cheap rates, Not cheap work. Search Opt- option offroad on facebook. Call or Sms 0439609525.. Sunshine coast, Eudlo, 4554.
[quote="mud4b"]or even try some hollowbar. 32mm od with a 10mm wall or 8mm wall thickness. this way you can tap the thread strait into it and it is strong.
thats what i used on mine was only about 30 bucks. the hard part is finding a left hand tap. i ended up just using 2 rh ends and when it needs adjusting, just knock one side out.
thats what i used on mine was only about 30 bucks. the hard part is finding a left hand tap. i ended up just using 2 rh ends and when it needs adjusting, just knock one side out.
Just get the original Nissan cab chassis drag link, it's pretty heavy wall (thicker and larger diameter than the drag link which uses the male tie rod ends) and it's already threaded to accept the female tie rod ends.
When I bought mine from Nissan a few years ago it cost me around $200 odd from memory and it also came with the tie rod ends (female) as well.
Regards Andrew.
When I bought mine from Nissan a few years ago it cost me around $200 odd from memory and it also came with the tie rod ends (female) as well.
Regards Andrew.
We are Tig welders, gravity doesn't worry us.
[img]http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/smilies/weld.gif[/img]
[img]http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/smilies/weld.gif[/img]
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests