Hi guys just a quick question about lifting my frontera, Ive been looking around and have found heaps of options for lifts my only problem is the front end, most people I talk to seem to think that 50mm of lift is asking for trouble as the stearing gets stuffed up and the torsion bars get pot under too much pressure.
Is this true and if so what have you guys done about it, is it worth getting heavy duty torsion bars or is it all just scare tactics.
At the moment I am headed towards either a TJM or Rancho lift, the Rancho guys tell me they have heavy duty torsion bars for my Frontera but that I should avoid fitting a bullbar or auxilliary tank so Im torn.
Any help would be greatly appreciated as I want a lift as soon as I can get one but I dont want to make an expensive mistake.
Thanks in advance Bacdef.
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
lift question
Moderator: Moderators
Bacdef,
45 - 50 mm is as about as far as you would want to safely crank it due to as you mentioned the issues with camber/allignment and also the extra stress put on the cv's and other components due to the greater angles. You can go higher ofcourse but the amount that you crank it is directly proportional to increased risk of something going wrong.
My Jack is cranked 45 - 50 mm at the front on the original factory t-bars and with a bullbar (alloy) fitted also and no probs (touch wood
). This sort of lift is so common these days and Im sure most of the guys in this forum have done the lift with no issues. I cant recall any major issues with the t-bars cranked this high on Isuzu vehicles...
Noel
45 - 50 mm is as about as far as you would want to safely crank it due to as you mentioned the issues with camber/allignment and also the extra stress put on the cv's and other components due to the greater angles. You can go higher ofcourse but the amount that you crank it is directly proportional to increased risk of something going wrong.
My Jack is cranked 45 - 50 mm at the front on the original factory t-bars and with a bullbar (alloy) fitted also and no probs (touch wood
). This sort of lift is so common these days and Im sure most of the guys in this forum have done the lift with no issues. I cant recall any major issues with the t-bars cranked this high on Isuzu vehicles...
Noel
1992 3.2L V6 SWB Holden Jackaroo
2008 3.0L TD Holden Rodeo S/cab Trayback
2008 3.0L TD Holden Rodeo S/cab Trayback
50mm is a good amount of lift for the F'terra. There is still a small amount of droop in the front and drive shaft angles are still OK. Std torsion bars are fairly robust. I've had an alloy bar on mine for nearly 4 yrs with no probs. Nuthing has broken in the front end yet and I drive mine like a maniac!!!!
It is a programme set up for translation which you can purchase, or go to their site and use it FOC. It has a few of the more common languages, but doesnt allow access to all by the look of it (no Thai 
).
Try the following, you have to translate page by page which can be slow, but I've managed to get into some good Isuzu sights in Japan using this.
http://www.systranbox.com/
Dave
).
Try the following, you have to translate page by page which can be slow, but I've managed to get into some good Isuzu sights in Japan using this.
http://www.systranbox.com/
Dave
I have a 40mm lift on the front of my Frontera and a 50mm at the rear. No problems so far after 91,000km. Go the Rancho shocks because of the adjustability. I have Rancho 9115 on the rear and OME on the front. The OME supplied for the rear the first time were for a Pajero and were too stiff and didn't have any extra travel to compensate for the lift. Had no problems up the Cape with either. Adjustable rears allowed me to soften the ride (and impact on the car) over the corrugations and then stiffen them for the OTL. AS the load reduced I softened them also.
David
David
Scott went for 3" and had some trouble with the CV's but if you drop the front diff an inch no troubles. 1 inch spacers between the diff and the mount and it's fine. Paul harris also had 4" at the rear of his but you need to change the track rod.
As for HD torsion bars it's all bull, as the bars still carry the same weight when you wind them up, all you are doing is turnung them round and repositioning them.
Get a set of springs put in at the rear and fit the shocks your self and wind it up. the torsion bars are eight turns to an inch of lift. Steve Rigney and I did his FtrUCK in a couple hours and it wasn't very hard. I've done mine, Steve's and removed the lift and installed the original in Brad lawson's.
It's a no brainer.
CJ
As for HD torsion bars it's all bull, as the bars still carry the same weight when you wind them up, all you are doing is turnung them round and repositioning them.
Get a set of springs put in at the rear and fit the shocks your self and wind it up. the torsion bars are eight turns to an inch of lift. Steve Rigney and I did his FtrUCK in a couple hours and it wasn't very hard. I've done mine, Steve's and removed the lift and installed the original in Brad lawson's.
It's a no brainer.
CJ
CJ
http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/gallery/cjburns7
http://cjburns7.tripod.com
http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/gallery/cjburns7
http://cjburns7.tripod.com
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests