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Hilux swivel hubs
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Hilux swivel hubs
Can anyone point me in the direction of instructions for shimming and setting up the swivel hubs etc on a LN106. The manual doesnt go into it, just says "special tools required" and give it to a dealer!
Special tools are not required, however alot of rags, and some patience are.
Go out and get yourself some gregories manuals, they have all the info on the front hubs mate.
http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/axle/index.html
have a look here mate.
Then go out and hit the front hubs with some degreaser, and pressure clean the front axle assy, it will make it so much better to work on, trust me, get it clean now before you take it all apart.
Then, and only then proceed
.
Chock vehicle safely, remove wheel, cut the brake line bracket so that you can twist, and thus remove the brake line/ caliper without disconecting the brake line, hang appropriately so it dosent hang on the brake line. Caliper bolts are 17mm, and a 12 mm at the top, as there is a plate there.
Mark the outer lock hub to the inner, to the wheel hub with a small center punch so that it will all go together the same way.
Remove the 10mm nuts, remove outer lock hub assy, get circlip pliers, and remove circlip, get 12mm socket, and loosen the nuts so that they are just over the end of the studs.
There is a washer, then a cone washer.
To remove the cone washers, get a correct size drift, and apply a sharp tap to the stud, the cone washers will then pop out, dont belt shit out of it, but a few sharp taps, and they will all come out.
When you put them back, put the split facing outwards, that way they will auto clean when the wheel turns.
Remove outer lock nut, washer (which should be bent to inner and outer nut, dont forget when refitting it), and remove inner, and then take off the wheel hub.
Remove stub axle by the 5?? bolts.
now you have a naked front hub
Remove the axle now, and put a rag into the diff housing as it will leak.
Ok, now take off your tie rod ends from the steering arms, and undo the inner seal which has 4 small bolts in each upper and lower cover,
The correct way of fitting the new seal is this
1: split metal shim (up against the inner machined section of the hub, the rubber rests on this so it wont peel inwards when turning.
2: Rubber washer, its held against the split washer by the felt wiper and the 2 seperate upper and lower retaining pieces.
3: Felt piece
4: Upper and lower external retainers.
then the 4 nuts on the top and bottom swivel, 17mm, once again, to remove the cone washers, use a drift directly on the studs, with some sharp blows from a hammer, they will pop out.
By this stage, you will be very glad you have cleaned the front hubs beforehand, if you havent, you will really be wishing you had.
Now with gentle taps the top and bottom bearing retainers will come off.
The main part of the bearing will be on these bits.
ENSURE that you keep the shims from the top clearly marked, and together, so that you can use them when you put them together as a starting point, in fact, ive found that using them again has resulted in correct preload and placement of the hub. But double check, someone could have stuffed it up before you.
Remove inner cones from the ball section on the end of your diff, use suitable drifts as per normal bearing replacement.
Remove and replace the inner axle seal.
Basically the install is reverse of the dissasemble.
From this, and the links you will have an idea of what to do.
And get a gregories manual
No 514 will do yours.
Let us know if you have any more questions mate.
Trains
Go out and get yourself some gregories manuals, they have all the info on the front hubs mate.
http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/axle/index.html
have a look here mate.
Then go out and hit the front hubs with some degreaser, and pressure clean the front axle assy, it will make it so much better to work on, trust me, get it clean now before you take it all apart.
Then, and only then proceed
.Chock vehicle safely, remove wheel, cut the brake line bracket so that you can twist, and thus remove the brake line/ caliper without disconecting the brake line, hang appropriately so it dosent hang on the brake line. Caliper bolts are 17mm, and a 12 mm at the top, as there is a plate there.
Mark the outer lock hub to the inner, to the wheel hub with a small center punch so that it will all go together the same way.
Remove the 10mm nuts, remove outer lock hub assy, get circlip pliers, and remove circlip, get 12mm socket, and loosen the nuts so that they are just over the end of the studs.
There is a washer, then a cone washer.
To remove the cone washers, get a correct size drift, and apply a sharp tap to the stud, the cone washers will then pop out, dont belt shit out of it, but a few sharp taps, and they will all come out.
When you put them back, put the split facing outwards, that way they will auto clean when the wheel turns.
Remove outer lock nut, washer (which should be bent to inner and outer nut, dont forget when refitting it), and remove inner, and then take off the wheel hub.
Remove stub axle by the 5?? bolts.
now you have a naked front hub
Remove the axle now, and put a rag into the diff housing as it will leak.
Ok, now take off your tie rod ends from the steering arms, and undo the inner seal which has 4 small bolts in each upper and lower cover,
The correct way of fitting the new seal is this
1: split metal shim (up against the inner machined section of the hub, the rubber rests on this so it wont peel inwards when turning.
2: Rubber washer, its held against the split washer by the felt wiper and the 2 seperate upper and lower retaining pieces.
3: Felt piece
4: Upper and lower external retainers.
then the 4 nuts on the top and bottom swivel, 17mm, once again, to remove the cone washers, use a drift directly on the studs, with some sharp blows from a hammer, they will pop out.
By this stage, you will be very glad you have cleaned the front hubs beforehand, if you havent, you will really be wishing you had.
Now with gentle taps the top and bottom bearing retainers will come off.
The main part of the bearing will be on these bits.
ENSURE that you keep the shims from the top clearly marked, and together, so that you can use them when you put them together as a starting point, in fact, ive found that using them again has resulted in correct preload and placement of the hub. But double check, someone could have stuffed it up before you.
Remove inner cones from the ball section on the end of your diff, use suitable drifts as per normal bearing replacement.
Remove and replace the inner axle seal.
Basically the install is reverse of the dissasemble.
From this, and the links you will have an idea of what to do.
And get a gregories manual
No 514 will do yours.
Let us know if you have any more questions mate.
Trains
Save the Whales......Collect the whole set.
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
jeez- thanks, that must have taken hours to type!
I do have gregories 514 but it says in italics
"if inspection of axle shaft sweal running surface indicated thast the swivel hub wasnt centralised, it is recommended tyhat the shimming be entrusted to an authorised dealer. Special tools are required to shim the swivel hub"
its is leaking diff oil there a bit (much worse than the other 3 hiluxes i have had) so really needs doing even though it only leaks if you leave the hubs locked in on the road for a bit.
once again, thanks train, much appreciated!
I do have gregories 514 but it says in italics
"if inspection of axle shaft sweal running surface indicated thast the swivel hub wasnt centralised, it is recommended tyhat the shimming be entrusted to an authorised dealer. Special tools are required to shim the swivel hub"
its is leaking diff oil there a bit (much worse than the other 3 hiluxes i have had) so really needs doing even though it only leaks if you leave the hubs locked in on the road for a bit.
once again, thanks train, much appreciated!
Fisho 64,
I would just go ahead and replace the seal and bearings, use the existing shims as a start, and check preload according to the manual, You would no dobut have a set of fish scales going by your name
I think you will find that it will be pretty close to spot on.
Just dont mix the shims top and bottom, as these allow the axle to be centralised.
cheers
Trains
I would just go ahead and replace the seal and bearings, use the existing shims as a start, and check preload according to the manual, You would no dobut have a set of fish scales going by your name
I think you will find that it will be pretty close to spot on.
Just dont mix the shims top and bottom, as these allow the axle to be centralised.
cheers
Trains
Save the Whales......Collect the whole set.
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
Excellent point Sic Lux.Sic Lux wrote:yeah i take it your doing inner axle seals and so on just wondering if your doing the brass(whatever) bush that supports the cv in stub axle as this can cause to much axle movement in the seal and cause it to leak
There not that much, and easily pressed out and replaced.
Trains
Save the Whales......Collect the whole set.
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
Mate ive done quite a number now, and no the kits ive gotten dont have the bush.fisho64 wrote:are the bushes part of the swivel hub kit?
Its a seperate part. You will need one for each side.
Its simmialar to this one that suits the cruiser.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TOYOTA-LANDCRUIS ... dZViewItem
to give you an idea.
It fits inside the front stub axle that is unbolted from the swivel hub.
Apply good amount of grease in it once its pressed into the stub axle for the cv shaft.
Trains
Save the Whales......Collect the whole set.
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
Yeah done a few inner axle seals but after a while they leak a bit so going to do that to mine and se how it goes it's the only thing i can think that would cause them to leak with a new seal all sufaces on axles where seal runs are good. a note for inner axle seals a slide hammer with any kind of a hook is good for this just don't go crazy with it if it's tight just work around it and it will come
plenty of parts on the bench
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