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and for engineering are you using Bill matzoukis? (sp???) or someone different?
mines sitting in the drive teasing me to get a stable job and pay my debts and get her going! (only have rwc, final engineers and gas compliancing to go )
shakes wrote:coming along super quick and looking nice mick.
have you any idea's on your tray yet?
and for engineering are you using Bill matzoukis? (sp???) or someone different?
mines sitting in the drive teasing me to get a stable job and pay my debts and get her going! (only have rwc, final engineers and gas compliancing to go )
Cheers
Simon
Cheers Simon. Yeah using Bill. I have a few ideas for the tray but after speaking to Bill it also has to be engineered and i am about to start a new job so i wont have time to make it and a tray shouldn't cost too much. I think Bill is going to put a 500kg limit on the tray anyway so it wont be anything too fancy. I just want the spare under the tray a roll hoop and some space boxes... dunno I really haven't put that much thought into it. It's been a pretty quick build due to it being in kit form, easter break and the fact i am home (one last day) other wise i could see it taking a fair bit longer.
Big change today after a chat with the engineer. After modifying the rear section of the roof brace all the torsional strength was removed so this had to be fixed. Big Thanks to Adam for helping out today!
So the old roof brace -
The new one - 50mm x 20mm x 2mm RHS
I was packing up tonight and i slammed the pass door shut and it sounded solid! I never heard it sound like that before normally the whole body would shake and rattel the glass. Imagine how strong its going to be when the roof is back on! Anyway i think that should keep the engineer happy!
shakes wrote:I had to also add diaganol braces on each corner as well.
the sideways flex cracked all the paint around the top cnr join of the roof after about an hour of freeway driving!
bill also told me this without seeing the paint either.
Bill has seen Andrews ute from LRA so he knows what the kit is about and the only 2 things so far were the RHS along the bottom and now the RHS along the top. My cab is very solid i cant see it flexing as i still have all 4 outriggers and now the roof brace is super strong even without the roof on. My only concern is it might be too strong and crack after prolonged off road use.
shakes wrote:just question him before you go any further....
mine was a bastard to weld in because the back wall of the cab was already on!
I'll wait till he sees it my back plate will be just riveted on for the inspection i wont have any welds holding it in place so if he decided on x brace it wont be so hard.
shakes wrote:just question him before you go any further....
mine was a bastard to weld in because the back wall of the cab was already on!
I think i know why he made you x brace it. I have a fold in the rear of my back panel you don't so that's where i get x strength from where yrs would wobble a bit if you didn't have the x....
anyway
Day 12
Back to work tomorrow
didnt do much today apart from clean up some areas and finished one side of the back panel to cover the hole where the wheel arches once were.
roof brace finished
Mount for rear brake lines... (it's water not brake fluid)
I did make it to the engineers yesterday huge thanks to Matty!!
He was pretty happy with my workmanship. He wanted me to add in another bit of RHS directly below the C pillar (pic 2) and a bit of plate inside the cab (pic 3) and that was it!!!
So here we go again.....
Wheels off this time as it wont go back to the engineer till it's finished!!!
Change 1 - this will cover that hole and add more strength to the rear hoop....
Change 2 - vertical section of RHS will tie the C pillar into the rear outrigger instead of relying on just a bit of folded flat plate....
Ran out of gas at 4:30pm today so will get new bottle in the morning and finish of the cab. I am also using Sikaflex-252 along with 4.8mm steel rivets along with a small amount of welding to hole most of the cab together (if anyone cares)
Mines an old 2.1 Wolf so no stepper motor which can suck on a cold morning but since i fitted it i have never had a problem. it's much better on fuel too! If i dont boot it all the time
I spent half a day doing some nice easy wiring so now the drivers side tail lights and amp wiring have been split tubed.
The after a quick call the the engineer to find out if i could move the fuel filler i started this -
I had to shorten the end of the filler as the fall would have been next to zero.... i have gained about 100mm so that should do it! Just need to work out how to get the lid to open electronically and it's back to factory.
It is a long way but i have over 100mm fall so it will be fine.... i hope
Apart from a little more wiring i pretty much run out of things to do on the cab and money :( But i did manage today to get the automatic fuel lid opener to work buy putting a little turn table in and welding it 90 deg to the back of the lid so it all fits nice and neat behind the small rear panel....
Watching this thread with interest, all nice stuff. As far as the wiring is concerned all I can say is do it, as encouragement. I did an 81 body transplant onto a 74 chassis that had a 350 Chev. The 81 came with a C9 /LT95 TC conversion that is now behind the Chev. Used most of the wiring loom from the 81 and was able to use a lot of the same colour coded wire from the 74 as a patch up when I pulled the dash off the 81 and saw some of the patches over the years on that car.
Definitely gives peace of mind re: fire, especially inside the binnacle and under the dash. Some stock wires are draped across sharp metal edges and as you have said elsewhere it is ludicrous to run high/low beam through the stalk switch. I'm now running high and low beam, stock horns, twin thermos etc through relays and am glad I spent the time to go right through the whole system and get it right with stock colour codes. I also took the extra time (FA) to solder all wires onto the new connectors. It'll all be worth it.
)
