replacing cam shaft G13A

[dank]

Putting in a reground cam this weekend.

Any hints/tips to make the job easier other than do it by the service manual?

What is the best way to slide the cam into head?

How do you go about moving the rockers out of the way? can you do it without loosening off the valve stem adjustment screws?

any special tools i really need?

cheers

[nicbeer]

U taking the engine out or just the head off? as i beleive u are aware that the cam goes in from the back?

U will need to adjust the clearances after anyway to suit the cam.

U could loosen all the rockers off so they are loose and then manourver the cam in. When i did mine i took it all off.

Nic

[dank]

engine staying in, head coming off!

I didn't know it was actually possible to take the rockers off?

i looked to see if this could happen but I couldn't see any joints anywhere? where would they come apart?

haven't looked close enough in the manual either at this stage....

[MART]

There are 10 phillips head screws that hold the rocker arm shafts in place , they need to be unscrewed to enable the rocker arm shafts to be slid out. They are very tight and often strip , so be careful when removing them. You must make sure the rocker arm shafts go back in the way they came out so mark them front and left and right , they may need a little persuasion. You will have to remove head of car to enable cam change and while it's of at least change the valve stem seals as they come in a vrs set. If you can afford it get a monotorque vrs set as the head gasket is a higher quality one and has metal between clinders , so less chance of blowing a head gasket. Also has cam seal , rocker cover gasket , distibutor adaptor gasket. The gasket set sells for about $90. Also depending on whether your car has overheated while you have had it it might need the head shaved to straigten it as it might be warped but you won't know until you take it off. You can simply also just loosen rocker adjusters and remove distributor adapter and slide cam out , but you still have to remove head , Cheers Paul.

[dank]

thanks Paul,
just the info i wanted. Yeah i've whacked on the 100amp alternator tonight while the radiator is out at the moment and am going to see if the V-belts will bust like on BFT's unit, i'll give it a while and then might go to the multi groove pulleys and belts for extra strength.

As for the head...it has gotten pretty hot before...just under the red mark a couple of times so I hope that it hasn't warped cos i want to drive it on anzac day holiday and don't want to stuff arounf with getting it shaved....I haven't had any issues with it yet and everything seems in good order...The timing belt looks almost brand new So i think that was done not long before i got the car, so i'm not going to change that...hopefully things will work out...its never easy working on a zook...something ALWAYS comes up to make life difficult.....

[MART]

Most times a v_belt fails is it is not tensioned properly , overheats and fails , keep it tight , and when you do change to multi_v , I just used original alternator pulley , Cheers Paul.

[Libber]

I second what MART said about the rocker shaft screws stripping easy. I found when taking the ones out of my new motor they were much softer than the ones in the old motor and I destroyed many getting them out... Lucky I had the old ones to put back in.