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autobalance compound
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autobalance compound
howdy- anyone have this magnum autobalance tyre balancing compound? sounds like it may work ok, but what happens when you air back up and your compressor spurts little droplets of water? the instructions say to reinflate with DRY air. i assume if water gets into the tyre then the compound will probably clump together?
Re: autobalance compound
http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/search.p ... BalanceManrowan wrote:howdy- anyone have this magnum autobalance tyre balancing compound? sounds like it may work ok, but what happens when you air back up and your compressor spurts little droplets of water? the instructions say to reinflate with DRY air. i assume if water gets into the tyre then the compound will probably clump together?
Have a look at these threads or get in touch with AutoBalanceMan.
Cheers,
Ryano
Hi!
i have it and find it works great, the autobalance product has a moisture retaining product in it, initally it is advised to seat bead with dry air to minimise the amount of water in the tyre, however ive seen the product taken out of tyres after being aired up and down with a known wet, on board air comp and the compound is still dry and freeflowing. i do believe not all tyre balance compounds have this which can make them clump and not work as good as they should.
80 series with chrome wheelnuts !!
Rowan
The instructions do state to re-inflate using dry air when inserting Magnum. For further re-inflating, even from an on board air compressor (known for condensation build up), the dessicant will ensure Magnum remains dry and free flowing to perform its job satisfactorily. In other words it will not clump if some moisture does enter from your compressor.
Magnum, being a silica based product will not damage the inside of the tyre like other balancing compounds may. There are many people using Magnum with success from 31inch MTR up to 38inch beadlocked Swampers. For more info please feel free to post up or contact via the web page.
The instructions do state to re-inflate using dry air when inserting Magnum. For further re-inflating, even from an on board air compressor (known for condensation build up), the dessicant will ensure Magnum remains dry and free flowing to perform its job satisfactorily. In other words it will not clump if some moisture does enter from your compressor.
Magnum, being a silica based product will not damage the inside of the tyre like other balancing compounds may. There are many people using Magnum with success from 31inch MTR up to 38inch beadlocked Swampers. For more info please feel free to post up or contact via the web page.
cheers, ill see how they balance up with traditional method, if that doesnt work ill be in touch for a few bags of auto balanceAutoBalanceMan wrote:MadmacMadmac wrote:can auto balance be used when internal air type beadlocks are fitted?
As Jim stated, Magnum can be used with internal beadlocks. I have second airs for the Q78s on the 80 Series with Magnum.
what about using staun deflators? i know there are valve core filters you can put in but it sounds like the magnum particles are pretty small, so i am thinking that at least some material may escape and gum up my stauns, or if it doesn't i am guessing the filter is that fine that it would slow deflation times- could you remove one of your filters and do a comparison autobalanceman?
also, is this compound capable of correcting lateral imbalances as well as verticle? i.e when you have your tyres balance weights go on the inside and outside of the rim, and the tyre is treated like a 3-dimensional object.
i am having my BF Goodrich looked at this morning to see if they are 'out of round' enough to send back to the factory-if not, i'll be chasing some form of compound.
also, is this compound capable of correcting lateral imbalances as well as verticle? i.e when you have your tyres balance weights go on the inside and outside of the rim, and the tyre is treated like a 3-dimensional object.
i am having my BF Goodrich looked at this morning to see if they are 'out of round' enough to send back to the factory-if not, i'll be chasing some form of compound.
No problems deflating tyres using Staunsrowan wrote: what about using staun deflators?
The filter is designed to stop particles entering the valve core but some do get thru and cause the valve to jam open. This is easily fixed with a shot of air or by simply fidling with the valve. As far as time goes I will be away on the weekend and will (if I remember) to time the time it takes to deflate then next week will do the same with a normal valve and let you know. As you stated the time will be greater with the filtered valve but I wouldn't think by that much.rowan wrote: i know there are valve core filters you can put in but it sounds like the magnum particles are pretty small, so i am thinking that at least some material may escape and gum up my stauns, or if it doesn't i am guessing the filter is that fine that it would slow deflation times- could you remove one of your filters and do a comparison autobalanceman
If a tyre can be balanced with weights then it can be balanced using a compound.rowan wrote:
also, is this compound capable of correcting lateral imbalances as well as verticle? i.e when you have your tyres balance weights go on the inside and outside of the rim, and the tyre is treated like a 3-dimensional object.
Balancing compounds will not make the tyre round again but will go a long way to make it feel like it is. Good luck.rowan wrote:
i am having my BF Goodrich looked at this morning to see if they are 'out of round' enough to send back to the factory-if not, i'll be chasing some form of compound.
Rowanrowan wrote: could you remove one of your filters and do a comparison autobalanceman?
I deflated my 315 X 75 X 16inch all terrains using the Staun deflaters from 40 psi to 22 psi using the filtered valves and normal valves as a comparasion as you asked. Using the filtered valves took 2min & 49sec while the normal valves took 2min & 35sec.
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